THE JOURNAL

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Five Square Watches For Any Style Or Season
Words by Mr Chris Hall
15 November 2023

Traditionally, square and rectangular watches have been considered a more formal choice. The sharp lines do complement crisp tailoring very well, but there’s no reason they should be saved for suited occasions. The variety on offer, from skeletonised contemporary styles to military pieces, is evidence enough that the square watch can slot right into your daily wardrobe. We’ve picked out five, from peerless dress watch grandees such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Cartier to more laid-back and colourful models by Hermès Timepieces and NOMOS Glashütte, that we feel are worth a look if your tastes are about to turn a corner.

01.
Hermès Timepieces H08
The H08 merges square and round forms together – unlike others on this list, it has a circular dial. However, it presents as a rectangular watch thanks to the lines of its glass fibre case and ceramic bezel. One of four new references in eye-catching colours, these pieces, launched at Watches and Wonders 2023, have all the wearability of the original H08 and bring a bold, expressive character all of their own.

02.
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Blue Steel
The classic Bell & Ross shape, as introduced with the BR 01, has been gradually refined – and reduced – in its now-dominant BR 03 collection. This Blue Steel model is as minimalist as it is effective, with its clear luminous numerals and deep blue sunray dial housed in a simple 42mm stainless steel case. Inside beats a Sellita-based BR-CAL.302 automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve.

03.
Cartier Santos Skeleton
The Santos shape is Cartier’s oldest – it even pre-dates the Tank – and has proven one of its most versatile. Certainly, the skeletonised, part-ADLC-coated version you see here is light years away from the 1904 original Santos-Dumont, but it is recognisably from the same extended family. Cartier’s hand-wound calibre 9611 is visible behind the Roman numerals which, despite the black inlay, are luminous.

04.
NOMOS Glashütte Tetra
To some, the Tetra is the odd one out from NOMOS Glashütte’s range. Certainly, it is the only square design on the German brand’s books, but it is one of the founding designs introduced in 1992 and remains one of the most distinctive choices out there. Unsoftened by curved corners, it wears its angular nature with pride. This vivid blue model is part of a collection that celebrates 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte, and runs on NOMOS’ in-house automatic calibre DUW 3001.

05.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
No list of square or rectangular watches would be complete without a Reverso. The Art Deco icon introduced in 1931 has metamorphosed over the years into sporty, contemporary and complicated versions, but the appeal of the original shape and style is undimmed. This large Reverso Classic comes from the Duoface sub-family, meaning that the famous flippable case reveals a second dial when it turns over – perfect for travelling between time zones or simply heading out after work.