The Ultimate Guide To Sneakers

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The Ultimate Guide To Sneakers

Words by The MR PORTER Team | Styling by Viktorija Tomasevic

17 February 2025

Worn by everyone from presidents to students, there’s no style of footwear quite as egalitarian as the sneaker. A quick glance down to ground level will confirm that sneakers have become omnipresent – and not just for athletes. Modern sneakers have morphed into objects of desire in their own right, causing otherwise sensible, grown men to camp overnight on shop thresholds like flocks of sneaker-obsessed magpies to get their limited-edition fix. And what begins as cutting-edge technology offering marginal gains in sporting arenas filters down into streetwear.

“Sneakers have become an expression of ourselves and our interests,” says Sam Pearce, creative design manager at New Balance. “Almost an objet d’art.”

However, being seen everywhere from treadmills to red carpets in myriad guises can make it all the more difficult to decide on the right pair to spend your hard-earned dollar on next. On that front, hopefully our comprehensive guide will make getting your kicks that little bit easier.

01. The retro sneaker

When adidas Originals founder Adolf Dassler introduced the Samba in 1949, it’s unlikely he envisaged a shoe that would still be setting the style template more than 75 years later. As with other iconic designs, it was built with a specific purpose in mind – in this case, ensuring football players were able to keep a firm footing on frozen training grounds. But swap this for the demands of the basketball court for successive flagship models, from Converse’s Chuck Taylor All Star to adidas’ Superstar to Nike’s Air Force 1.

What unifies these timeless styles is a sense of simplicity, that form follows function and, somehow, form is improved because of that. It plays into the philosophy of Dassler’s compatriot, the industrial designer Dieter Rams, who famously said “good design is as little design as possible”. Or, more succinctly, “less, but better”.

Thanks to detailed archives, previously forgotten models are now frequently dusted down and reimagined for a second lease of life. Not that you have to peer way back into the annals of sporting achievement for some of today’s most notable sneakers. A modern generation of designers – from Maison Margiela to TOM FORD – have their own take on the retro sports shoe, constructed from premium materials, in silhouettes plucked from their own imaginations.

Whichever way you go, restraint is key. These shoes may have been designed for an icy football pitch or nothing more treacherous than a fashion-show runway, but in their pared-back approach, they will likely go with anything in your wardrobe.

02. The hype sneaker

Not all designers ascribe to the minimalist ideals of Rams, of course. The sneaker market has swelled enormously over the past 10 years and shows little signs of slowing down – projections point to a further 4.7 per cent annual growth to the end of the decade in the UK, while indicators suggest the US market could soon be worth more than $100 billion, with the resale market expected to reach $30 billion by 2030 (get ahead now: learn more about MR PORTER RESELL here). A lot of this is fuelled by designer collaborations, exclusive colourways and limited-edition drops. And often, under such conditions, you want to make sure your new release gets noticed. Here, “more is more” might be a better mantra.

For some designers, this footwear frenzy means eye-catching new concepts that take the accepted form of the sporting shoe to new heights – or certainly exaggerated proportions. Balenciaga, under the aegis of creative director Demna in particular, has earned a reputation for its zeitgeist-defining releases that may lean on the DNA of the sneaker, but are very much their own thing.

Elsewhere, you’ll notice certain models that look vaguely familiar if you squint. Traditional sportswear brands have increasingly looked towards the latest talents of the fashion world to entirely reenergise archival lines. Here, Wales Bonner’s efforts for adidas Originals are a big factor in the current ubiquity of the Samba. There’s no just dipping a toe into the market here – it’s about taking the sneaker and, well, running with it.

03. The tech sneaker

Pushing the limits is not just an aspiration of designers hoping their latest model picks up some heat. The rise of outdoor pursuits – hiking, trail running, gravel biking and their like – has run in parallel with the emergence of Gorpcore as a menswear trend. Meaning that chunky shoes designed more in line with off-road running are becoming increasingly commonplace, even on the city streets that they’re supposed to take you away from.

In this sector, mesh and TPU uppers and overlays come into their own. Technical fabrics such as GORE-TEX are employed to ensure the elements stay where they are supposed to – outside your shoe. Soles, too, become more pronounced, tailored for stability and grip on uneven, grainy and slippery surfaces. Cushioning can also be utilised for comfort. For some brands, these functional features can become jumping-off points for more radical designs.

Sure, not every pair of Salomon XT-6s you see out there are put through their paces in the wilderness most weekends. (As the unofficial shoe of today’s creative directors, that Contagrip sole is more likely to be shuffling across design-studio floors than scree slopes.) But it’s good to know that they could…

04. The performance sneaker

You could reason that technical advancement has always been at the core of performance footwear. That sport demands incremental progression in its thirst for new records and PBs, and that running shoes in particular are a big factor in that. What has perhaps changed in recent years is that shoes at the bleeding edge of professional athletics are finding their way onto the feet of fashionistas faster than ever before.

For a detailed breakdown of what to look for in a pair of performance running shoes, read MR PORTER’s expert guide. There’s no doubt that such footwear firepower will do much for your stats on Strava, but also improve your comfort and potentially take you farther. Brands including On have pioneered cushioning systems such as CloudTec for more spring in your step. You’ll still be putting the effort in, but your shoes will be doing some of the legwork for you.

All of which hasn’t escaped the attention of certain designers. LOEWE’s recent collaborations with On have used the running brand’s architecture as a platform that optimises forward motion, but is also fashion forward.

05. The court sneaker

While the name suggests they were originally designed for the court, rubber-soled tennis shoes were first found in the kit bags of 19th-century British Navy seamen. They wore the shoes to prevent keeling over on slippery, see-sawing decks. The British aristocracy – no strangers to maritime exploits themselves – began to wear the shoes during tennis games due to their excellent traction, and the name stuck.

With their sleek, elegant profile and ability to pair with casual and dressy looks, tennis shoes have become the bread and butter of the modern sneaker offering. And while every brand worth its salt has its own take on the ageless design, adidas produces some of the most classic styles, including the Stan Smith, which first appeared with that name in 1973.

In many ways, the popularity of this hallmark design paved the way for brands such as Common Projects, SAINT LAURENT and TOM FORD, who have reinterpreted the style for 21st-century tastes, garnering a loyal following in the process. Whether you opt for box-fresh white or classic black, the inherently fuss-free slickness of tennis shoes makes them work seamlessly with whatever else you’ve got on – everything from polos and chino shorts in summer to woollen trousers and chunky knitwear on cooler days.

The details

Eyelets

Put simply, the circular holes through which a sneaker’s laces are fastened.

Upper

The main body of the shoe, which forms its general shape.

Midsole

The central part of the sole, which often houses supportive cushioning in the form of a chunky rubber wedge or patented shock-absorbing materials.

Outsole

The bottom of the sole, which usually features some sort of grip texture.

Toe box

The forward section of the shoe that surrounds the toes. This section is sometimes perforated for enhanced breathability. There should be enough space to comfortably accommodate your feet without bunching your toes.

Collar

The rounded, padded section at the top of the sneaker where your foot enters the shoe.

Topline

Above the collar, where the sneaker finishes. Depending on whether this is at ankle length or higher, the sneaker is classified as a “high-top” or “low-top”.

Tongue

This protruding panel of fabric sits beneath the laces and eyelets and prevents discomfort caused by friction when walking.

The materials

Leather and suede

Its excellent temperature regulation, breathability and suppleness has made leather a key ingredient in apparel for millennia – and it’s these very qualities that make the fabric ideal for footwear. Spain and Italy have often been touted as the best sources of leather on account of the durability and butter-soft texture of the hides. The earliest sneakers were made from leather, and it remains one of the most popular materials today, with smooth leathers, fuzzy nubucks and suedes and grained leathers often combined for maximum textural effect.

Performance mesh

While natural fibres are something we would actively promote here at MR PORTER, we also know there are times when you require more technical clout, especially for athletic pursuits, or if you’re conscious of trashing your prized suede sneakers when the weather’s taken a turn. From airy lightweight meshes to patented innovations such as Nike’s famed Flyknit upper, adidas’s Boost soles or New Balance’s Fresh Foam cushioning, today’s enhanced technical materials are designed to keep you cool and collected – and injury-free.

Eco materials

There’s no getting around the fact that clothing manufacturing comes with a heavy carbon footprint. But what do you do if you need a new pair of kicks? A glut of big names in the field have been making strides to reform their production methods for the better. Whether it’s Nike or adidas using fibres made from recycled ocean plastics, or luxury brands opting for naturally treated hides and vegan leather, sneaker brands are looking to play their part in eco-awareness.

Other brands, such as Veja, have chosen to build their offering on sustainability from the ground up. Founded in 2004, the French label has achieved an impressively loyal following for its sneakers made in an entirely transparent and ethical supply chain; they don’t sacrifice on style, either.