THE JOURNAL

Come the dog days of summer, and they are coming, it could be that the only suit you’re interested in is prefixed with the word “swim”. Well, more fool you. Because there are places that a pair of trunks can’t take you, way beyond the poolside. Moreover, modern summer tailoring has adjusted. It’s loosey-goosey. Relaxed, even. OK, not sun-lounger horizontal, but certainly not your trussed-up, Man Men-style suiting of yore.
It’s also not just for weddings – though it does offer a gateway into more comfortable nuptials. As dress codes in the wider world have dropped off, and distinctions between work and play have blurred, the suit has adapted. Team that less-rigid aesthetic with lighter, breezier fabrics such as linen and organic cotton and you have an outfit purpose-built for the hotter months.
“It’s all about maintaining that balance between structure and freedom,” the editor, curator and creative director Ben Reardon says of the new summer suit. “Finding something that both commands attention and lets you breathe.”
Predictably, the Italians are at the forefront of this movement. There are echoes of the softer shoulders and stripped-back padding of the Neapolitan suit, and designers such as Canali, Caruso and Kiton should be on your radar. That said, our own-label Mr P. has a firm grasp of this look, with a new collection of linen tailoring that meets with our Consciously Crafted criteria for lower-impact materials. Phew, that’s more worries lifted.
In keeping with the suiting, the rules to wearing these pieces are looser, too. But that doesn’t mean they’ve been entirely thrown out of the window. There is always room for experimentation – with these less-restrictive cuts, there’s a lot of room for many things. However, for a rough gauge of what you need to think about when it comes to suiting up this summer, see below. C’mon, dive in.
01. Work on your mood board first
“The 1980s and 1990s remain perennial touchstones for those seeking the perfect summer suiting,” Reardon says. “It’s a time when fashion felt louche, just a little bit oversized and decidedly expensive. Think Michael Douglas, Denzel Washington and Tom Cruise wearing Loro Piana and Armani.”
There are more recent icons to consider, too. “While still in mourning for Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta, it’s also time to celebrate what he accomplished during his tenure,” Reardon says. “His final season at the house was nothing short of a masterstroke. The refined silhouette he built – strong shoulders, slouchy trousers, oversized shirting – perfectly embodied the cool nonchalance of modern dressing. It’s luxury without pretension.”
02. Keep your shirt on
“The foundation of the look is always shirts,” says Declan Chan, a stylist and co-founder of the home fragrance brand AOTROM. “Be it a white shirt or striped shirt, the shirt always sets the tone.”
However, don’t feel you have to limit this baseline to shirts. Polos, tees and vests lend themselves to a looser, off-duty style. White and lighter hues will reflect more sunlight and offer contrast to darker layers.
03. Mind your tone
“I love the tonal trend of matching shirt, jacket and trousers,” Reardon says. “LEMAIRE, in particular, has perfected this approach. Its colour palette is simply sublime – timeless, yet intriguingly odd. Its pieces have become a uniform to be added to each season. For summer, the garments are unlined, lightweight and casually loose. And perhaps the best part? They look just as chic crumpled as they do pressed.”
“Lighter neutrals and browns are a classic choice for relaxed summer suiting,” says Rachel O-Williams, Assistant Personal Shopper at MR PORTER. “But I also love the idea of introducing colours like soft pinks and burnt orange for a bit more personality. Layering different shades or tones of these colours adds texture and depth, making the look feel more relaxed yet still put together.”
04. Master the “broken” suit
Alternatively, try a more mixed-up approach. The Italians know a thing or two about summer suiting. As well as unstructured and unlined jackets and lightweight fabrics, there’s a philosophy called spezzato, which translates as “broken”. It’s a technique whereby different, mismatching pieces are brought together to create a “new” suit.
“Mastering spezzato comes down to striking the right balance between colour, fabric and fit,” O-Williams says. “If one of these elements is off, the outfit loses its polish.”
Colour coordination is actually the easiest part of this equation, according to O-Williams. “The real challenge lies in balancing fit and fabric to create a look that feels intentional rather than mismatched,” she says.
Her tips? “Avoid mixing levels of formality. Aim for fabrics that complement one another in texture and weight, which will help maintain a more cohesive feel. And ensure that both pieces have a complementary silhouette, whether that’s a more structured or relaxed fit, to create a harmonious look.”
05. Wait, shorts with a suit?
“I’m all for shorts,” Chan says of his summer suiting. That’s that done, then. Only, hold your horses – it’s not quite so simple.
“There are a lot of pitfalls here,” warns Lauren Cochrane, senior fashion writer for The Guardian and author of The Ten: The Stories Behind The Fashion Classics. “I would say avoid anything too tight… Or anything beach-ready – but there is potentially something quite cool in a loose short with a suit jacket.”
“It needs to be mid-thigh Thom Browne length,” Chan says.
“For footwear, I’d lean towards loafers,” O-Williams says. “They add a touch of formality that balances out the relaxed nature of the shorts, keeping the overall look refined rather than too laid-back.”
Socks, O-Williams admits, can be tricky: “Visible socks can sometimes give off a schoolboy vibe, which doesn’t always work. That said, there are exceptions.” She again cites Thom Browne, who “plays into the uniform aesthetic, making longer socks feel like a deliberate style choice rather than an afterthought”.
If you are opting for socks, Chan suggests white ones – “although I think it’s quite fresh to wear black socks and lace-up shoes,” he adds.
06. Think on your feet
“I am both conservative and risk-taking when it comes to the shoe department,” Chan says. “When I want to dress safe, I will go with black lace-ups.”
There is also scope for sneakers, within reason. Your best option is to stick to a classic, low-profile silhouette. But then you could dip a toe into something a bit more contemporary…
“The new ‘sneakers’ for fashion boys are ballet flats,” Chan says. Smart sandals, espadrilles and mules are also an option. Pool slides – not so much.
07. The final touches
A pared-back suit can allow for considered accessories to take a more prominent role. “Sunglasses are one of the most underrated yet impactful choices,” O-Williams says. “And layering rings adds personality and a sense of individuality.” Gold jewellery particularly will work with the warmer palette of summer suiting, as well as catch the sunlight.
And while there might be more hours in the day, it pays not to lose track of time. Meaning the right watch is a crucial finishing touch. “I wouldn’t get hung up on colour-coordinating, although a black leather strap might be a bit businesslike for your summer garden party,” says the watch expert Chris Hall. “Steer clear of anything big and chunky. Colourful dials are OK – it’s summer, after all. However, unless you’re making a music video, I’d swerve lurid rubber straps.”
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