THE JOURNAL

Choosing a lightweight jacket should be straightforward. Sure, there are hundreds of different options, a near-infinite selection of colours, fabrics and styles that you can choose from. But then, it’s only a jacket, right? How hard can it be? In reality, however, finding the perfect trans-seasonal outerwear isn’t easy.
As soon as the weather starts to warm up and “Big Coat Season” comes to an end, I always struggle to find the right piece. Desperate to fill this seasonal hole, I’ve tried pretty much everything. Over the years there have been chore coats and jungle jackets, bombers and macs, windbreakers and sports coats, without anything ever feeling like I’d found “the one”.
On those between-season days, when the temperature hits the not-too-cold and not-too-hot sweet spot, a lighter jacket comes into its own. There are, of course, various weather concerns to take into account, including April showers and the hot days of summer, sometimes stretching well into September. The unpredictability of when, or if, you’ll need a lightweight jacket only adds to the difficulties of choosing the right one. Something too bulky and it’ll quickly become redundant, whereas something too light will barely be needed at all.
A light jacket isn’t just for those in-between days, though. It can become a year-round wardrobe staple, something that works just as well layered under a winter coat as it does in the summer when the evening chill sets in and your T-shirt or vest no longer cuts it. And if you get the right one, it will become a versatile essential that can carry you through those shoulder seasons and far beyond – overshirts and blouson jackets look particularly great underneath a longer coat in winter.
“The Harrington was born on the golf courses of Manchester before becoming a favourite of James Dean”
When it comes to making the right choice, maybe the best place to start is with the classics. There are some lightweight outerwear styles that have been worn for generations and remain just as useful as they always were. Just because something is a classic doesn’t mean it has to be boring. Think of the Harrington, for example, which was born on the golf courses of Greater Manchester before becoming a favourite of James Dean. If you’re going for one of these tried-and-tested styles, with all the history behind them, there’s also the opportunity to have a bit of fun in a different way.
One example comes from Baracuta, the originator of the Harrington silhouette, with the jacket now updated into a standout Chili Pepper colourway. Elsewhere, Cherry Los Angeles has taken the all-American denim jacket and added some rhinestone embellishments. Meanwhile, Story Mfg. has turned its handmade focus to the military-inspired liner-style jacket, with patchwork details, a hand-block printed lining and beaded pulls. All these jackets show what can happen when you take a well-worn and well-known style and play with it.
Another style to consider, perhaps better suited to even warmer days or as a layering piece, is the overshirt. As the name suggests, it straddles the boundary between a jacket and, well, a shirt. They’re generally made with a thicker material and, if you’re really lucky, some pockets to differentiate from the sort of shirt you might wear to the office.
It goes without saying that overshirts are a relaxed and casual light-jacket option, and there is a whole range of different styles to choose from. You could go for a lightweight and breezy seersucker shirt from Portuguese Flannel, or a zip-up version from Altea. There’s also the opportunity to really push the boat out, as shown by Canali’s luxurious leather overshirt.
With all these options, how do you choose which style is right for you? If there’s one thing I’ve learnt from my years of trial and error, it’s that everyone’s perfect light jacket is different. Some might want to go for something a bit more out there – like that bright red Harrington or the leather overshirt – while others will prefer a more classic and understated design. Try various alternatives, maybe take a risk with colour or material. And if you find a style that works for you, hold it close.
The people featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse MR PORTER or the products shown