What’s in a humble polo shirt? If it was made by PIACENZA 1733, it’s a lot more than some cotton thread and a few grass stains – it’s a piece of history. Life for a PIACENZA 1733 polo began around three centuries ago, when one of the oldest knitwear manufacturers was founded in Pollone. It’s neighbouring city, Biella, has form when it comes to fabric. Located in the northern Italian region of Piedmont, within chanting distance of the holy Sacred Mount of Oropa, it lies between the foothills of the Alps and the Po Valley – a steady flow of rivers and streams resulting in a wool manufacturing industry that burgeoned in the 1300s and is now, unsurprisingly, internationally renowned.

Yes, we all remember the “puffy vest” scene in season two of Succession. And while things didn’t turn out too bad for Tom Wambsgans in the end – maybe his hopes and dreams really were stuffed in that Moncler bodywarmer – the show served as a reminder that there’s a right time and place for even the most versatile item of clothing. Or, rather, there’s the right gilet. Because, whether worn as outerwear in its own right or as a mid-layer under a jacket, blazer or coat, a gilet can be the piece that keeps you warm while also making an outfit sing. But also: context. Certain situations require certain items. So, while a voluminous down vest really can adapt to most meteorological conditions, there are always social rules to consider. In short, read the room. As we enter the biannual phase we like to call “the gilet window” – when the gilet might be the first outer layer you turn to – it becomes paramount to know where yours will take you. What works on a weekend hike might not swing it in the boardroom. (Unless you own the company, in which case knock yourself out.) With that in mind, here are five gilet tribes and the items to hope and dream for.

From reading into some accounts of new-season clothing, you’d assume that Mother Nature just flips a switch. One day it’s winter and you’re tucked up in a down jacket, the next – BAM! – it’s spring and you’re in an aloha shirt and shorts. Of course, the world doesn’t work like that. And while the SS25 collections are already here, in reality, their uptake into your lived experience is likely to be gradual rather than overnight. There is, however, one segment of your wardrobe in which you can make a seismic shift, like, right now. And that’s accessories. Think about it: the weather at this time of year can be unpredictable. So, you might still need an extra layer – or two, or three – of outerwear. But a pop of colour or something to break up an outfit? Talk about instant impact. Below, a selection of the latest accessories to help you seize the moment and dress for the season you want, not the one you currently have. Because the final details shouldn’t be the last thing you consider.

Choosing a lightweight jacket should be straightforward. Sure, there are hundreds of different options, an almost infinite selection of colours, fabrics and styles that you can choose from. But then, it’s only a jacket, right? How hard can it be? In reality, however, finding the perfect trans-seasonal outerwear isn’t easy. As soon as the weather starts to warm up and “Big Coat Season” comes to an end, I always struggle to find the right piece. Desperate to fill this seasonal hole, I’ve tried pretty much everything. Over the years there have been chore coats and jungle jackets, bombers and macs, windbreakers and sports coats, without anything ever feeling like I’d found “the one”.

What’s in a humble polo shirt? If it was made by PIACENZA 1733, it’s a lot more than some cotton thread and a few grass stains – it’s a piece of history. Life for a PIACENZA 1733 polo began around three centuries ago, when one of the oldest knitwear manufacturers was founded in Pollone. It’s neighbouring city, Biella, has form when it comes to fabric. Located in the northern Italian region of Piedmont, within chanting distance of the holy Sacred Mount of Oropa, it lies between the foothills of the Alps and the Po Valley – a steady flow of rivers and streams resulting in a wool manufacturing industry that burgeoned in the 1300s and is now, unsurprisingly, internationally renowned.

Yes, we all remember the “puffy vest” scene in season two of Succession. And while things didn’t turn out too bad for Tom Wambsgans in the end – maybe his hopes and dreams really were stuffed in that Moncler bodywarmer – the show served as a reminder that there’s a right time and place for even the most versatile item of clothing. Or, rather, there’s the right gilet. Because, whether worn as outerwear in its own right or as a mid-layer under a jacket, blazer or coat, a gilet can be the piece that keeps you warm while also making an outfit sing. But also: context. Certain situations require certain items. So, while a voluminous down vest really can adapt to most meteorological conditions, there are always social rules to consider. In short, read the room. As we enter the biannual phase we like to call “the gilet window” – when the gilet might be the first outer layer you turn to – it becomes paramount to know where yours will take you. What works on a weekend hike might not swing it in the boardroom. (Unless you own the company, in which case knock yourself out.) With that in mind, here are five gilet tribes and the items to hope and dream for.