Menswear, when it comes down to it, is a pretty simple business. It’s either all about streetwear (hoodies, T-shirts, sneakers), tailoring (suits, shirts, ties), workwear (chore jackets, work boots) or, as per this season, something more military. But this isn’t what you’d wear in the army exactly. Instead, it’s khaki and safari suits at AMIRI, olive green at Dries Van Noten and Paul Smith; reworked jacket pockets at Auralee; combat shapes at Officine Générale; even extremely refined versions of field jackets and parkas at Brioni, TOM FORD and Brunello Cucinelli.