THE JOURNAL
Illustration by Mr Luke Brookes
There is perhaps no better advertisement for the power of spray tan than Mr James Harknett. Forget that he’s been in the business for 21 years, or that countless celebrities and models have him on speed dial, or that he’s won more awards than you’d have time to count. Harknett doesn’t look like he’s had a spray tan. If you weren’t aware that giving people a radiant glow was his full-time job, you’d struggle to believe his own subtly tanned complexion wasn’t entirely natural.
Who better, then, to ask for advice on achieving an imperceptible fake tan? From avoiding streaks to making your results last, the spray tanner to the stars answers our questions about getting professionally bronzed, just in time for summer.
Why should I get a spray tan?
If you’re the kind of guy who feels instantly more attractive after a holiday or have ever been tempted to use a sunbed, then a spray tan might just be the magic you’re after. Whereas the risks of basking in the sun’s rays are by now well known, a professionally applied tan is swift, painless and won’t age you prematurely. Best of all, if you happen to have super-pale skin that skips straight to the sunburn stage, a fake tan offers a sure-fire route to the bronzed look that’s so far eluded you.
Fake tanning is not just for fair-skinned folk and Harknett’s clients includes men with skin tones across the spectrum. For darker-skinned guys, a quick spray tan can even out patchiness (think significantly lighter limbs that have been buried under winter layers) or simply perk up a complexion that’s looking washed-out, ashen or sallow. “It’s about giving the skin a real glisten, giving it a glow and just bringing the colour up to what it might look like if you’ve been in the sun for three or four days,” he says.
How does it work?
The active ingredient in spray-tanning solutions and in the mousses and lotions you can buy over the counter is dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which is derived from sugar cane. “Essentially, the sugar binds itself with dead skin cells to turn them brown,” says Harknett. “It’s a natural reaction, a bit like when you take a bite out of an apple and it starts to turn brown because of the natural oxidants in the air.” Fake tan products also contain vegetable dyes as the base – some more golden, some a little red, others more olive. A pro tanner will typically have a variety of bases that can be tailored to each client’s skin tone.
As for the spray-tanning process, after a brief consultation about your desired results, the first step is to undress, although how much or how little you choose to wear is up to you. “Most guys wear just a pair of boxers, trunks or briefs,” says Harknett. “Some guys don’t want tan lines, whereas other are happy to because then you can see that difference as if you’ve been on the beach.” From there, you’ll step into a ventilated booth and be sprayed with the tanning solution from top to toe. Harknett applies ultra-fine layers that don’t oversaturate the skin and he will happily add some definition on the biceps or torso, if that’s what you’re after.
“Some people are more yellow; some are more pinky. It’s all about finding the right product that will match their skin tone”
Will everyone be able to tell?
Spray-tanning has become more popular with men over the past 10 years (they represent 40 per cent of Harknett’s client base), but it can be hard to convince rookies that they won’t end up with a Ross-from-Friends result. Still, it’s worth remembering that for every overly enthusiastic tanaholic who’s dyed himself a terrifying shade of vermillion, there’s an A-list celebrity whose radiant complexion on the red carpet or subtly bronzed torso in a glossy ad campaign is all thanks to an airbrush. Pick the right pro tanner and your friends and colleagues will be none the wiser. “My thing has always been I don’t want people to look fake-tanned,” says Harknett. “I want to create a holiday, healthy version of them.”
Any experienced tanner will tell you that achieving that highly coveted natural-looking result is all about understanding undertones. “Some people are more yellow; some are more pinky,” says Harknett. “It’s all about finding the right product that will match their skin tone.” For darker-skinned clients, he tends to opt for tanning solutions with a more golden and olive base, rather than a red. For fair-skinned newbies who simply want to look like they’ve had a touch of sun, he’ll pick a product with a lower concentration of DHA that won’t “frighten them off”.
“It’s about giving the skin a real glisten, giving it a glow and just bringing the colour up to what it might look like if you’ve been in the sun for three or four days”
The biggest spray-tan giveaway is the face. “That’s what everyone sees and that’s where you can feel a little self-conscious,” says Harknett. “If you go for a spray tan, just say to your therapist, ‘Don’t overdo my face.’” His trick is to apply a little moisturiser, which will act as barrier and ensure any product applied there is almost imperceptible.
How should I prepare for my spray tan?
Whether you’re outsourcing to the pros or doing it yourself at home, a good degree of skin prep is paramount. The key to an even, streak-free application is giving your skin a scrub a day or two before the tan, paying extra attention to dry areas, such as elbows and knees. “Because the tanning agent grabs onto dead skin cells, it can cling to those parts of our bodies that don’t produce natural moisture, such as the back of the heels, the elbows and the knees, and that’s why they tend to go a lot darker,” says Harknett.
Spray tans work best when there’s a “clear canvas” to work with. That means no body lotion, fragrance or deodorant. (If you’re heading for a tan straight from work and would prefer not to clear the office, you can always jump in the shower and towel down beforehand.) It might seem to make sense to shave before a spray tan, but Harknett advises against any hair removal. “That can take the skin off, which causes the tan to struggle to bind properly,” he says.
How long will my tan last?
It depends. Maintaining results is all in the aftercare. For the first eight hours post-bronzing, it’s essential not to get the skin wet, whether that’s with water from the shower or sweat. “I advise people to wear something loose after their tan so their skin can breathe, especially in the warmer months,” says Harknett. If you need to slip back into a white shirt and suit and re-enter polite society immediately after your tan, Harknett’s “dry style of tanning”, plus his tendency to cool down clients with a dryer afterwards, should leave you with next to no transfer.
For the next few days, there’s a checklist of steps you can take to extend the life of your glorious new glow so it lasts a good week and fades as evenly as the real thing. Quick warm showers are recommended, rather than baths, which can “waterlog the skin and lift the tan off quickly” and it’s best to pat yourself dry with your towel, rather than rub. After you’ve washed, lather on an oil-free lotion that’s “not too thick, fragrant or greasy”. Harknett is a fan of the lightweight, cheap and cheerful moisturiser-in-a-can formulas that you mist on. If you’re heading off on holiday, a dip in the ocean is preferable to one in a swimming pool because chlorine can fade your tan more quickly. Finally, high-intensity workouts that result in lots of friction and sweat can also strip the tan prematurely. A touch of talcum powder in any sweaty nooks, crannies and crevices should keep things ticking along.