Redefining “Essentials” – Three Stylists In The Pieces Every Man Should Own

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Redefining “Essentials” – Three Stylists In The Pieces Every Man Should Own

Words by Ms Lili Göksenin | Photography by Mr Valentin Hennequin | Styling by Miss Sophie Hardcastle

16 January 2024

Every so often, we meet – or simply catch sight of – a guy who is dressed impeccably from head to toe. These men typically have nailed every aspect of their look and, regardless of their style (maximal, minimal, masculine or borrowed-from-the-gals), their “basics” are beyond reproach.

By basic we mean essential and by essential we mean clothes that every man should have in his wardrobe. This includes the typical T-shirt and button-down shirt, but this year we’re adding gorgeous cashmere blazers, soft hoodies and trousers cut just so. Counter to prevailing advice, you cannot and should not pick these things up on the high street. No, if you’re wearing something every day, that thing that you’re wearing should be excellent from design, material and craftsmanship points of view.

At least, that’s what we were thinking when we pulled together our New Essentials edit, a rolling collection of pieces that are simple, wearable and necessary, but are also beautifully made, stylish and modern. How best, however, to demonstrate this new curation, we thought? Why, with menswear style experts, of course. So, we travelled to the birthplace of fashion – Paris, bien sur – to meet with three of our favourite stylists who call the City of Lights home. Before we arrived, we asked them to comb through the New Essentials collection, pull some looks and then show us how they would wear them every day.

The result? An educational and inspirational photoshoot that proves “basics” is a grave misnomer.

01. Mr Paul Maximillian, stylist and consultant

Mr Paul Maximillian is a German stylist who’s lived in Paris for two years. He moved here after living full time in London, then locking down in Berlin during the pandemic. “For the first time in 15 to 20 years or so, Paris is important [in fashion]. Before it was London or New York where most of the shoots and young creatives live, now it’s happening here.”

Maximillian’s personal and professional style revolves around shape. “I would describe it as sculptural, timeless, effortless,” he says. “I invest in pieces of good quality, which I will have for many years to come and mix them with vintage shirts. I’m big on shapes: I love knits and outerwear that have a certain thickness and fullness, I like my clothes to be slouchy and oversized.”

Not for nothing, The Row is a star in the New Essentials edit and Maximilian (OK, all the stylists in this photoshoot) chose some of the best pieces. A black cotton wool-blend overcoat goes elegantly with selvedge denim, slim-soled loafers and a spotless white tee. Each piece is roomy, but intentionally so (this is the only way to avoid looking like you’re wearing your big brother’s clothes), pressed and tailored.

“In my work, I love when everything has sophistication, but also effortlessness. I love timeless clothes, but I don’t like to force someone into something that person is not. I like underlaying the character. And I prefer when everything still has a certain nonchalance.”

An Auralee cardigan is nonchalance embodied in cashmere. Mid-wash jeans from The Row are dressed up thanks to high-gloss Derby shoes by LOEWE.

“For these looks, my inspiration was 1990s-era Giorgio Armani a little. I like when I can move freely in garments – it was my first time as a model.”

02. Mr James Sleaford, Editor of Icon France Magazine

Nottingham-born, Essex-raised stylist and editor Mr James Sleaford now lives in Paris with his wife. He first moved over in the early 2000s to work for GQ France as its first fashion director and now newly finds himself the editor of Icon France magazine (“or, redacteur en chef, to be precise,” he says). In the interim, styled for magazines across Europe and cofounded Secret Trips, a stylish travel site.

Now settled in the French capital, he has some time to slow down and evaluate his style. “I always say my personal style is one part smart and one part casual,” Sleaford says. “I like to wear a lot of tailored frock coats with denim or leather boots or a pair of trainers. I love wearing split tailoring – a fitted jacket and a little pinstriped shirt with jeans.”

Though he doesn’t say so, his vibe is also one part English, one part French. The looks he selects with our Deputy Fashion Director manage to look both buttoned up and a little bit louche. “I have always been influenced by the French wardrobe. Slightly classic but with a twist.”

A double-breasted cashmere blazer from The Row caught the eye of everyone on set. Cut with the heft of a coat, this impeccably tailored top layer was a stunning example of simple elegance.

A slim black car coat from SAINT LAURENT elevated straight-leg jeans from OrSlow as well as a beautifully soft sweater from Nili Lotan layered over a striped tee from the same brand. The effect is almost shockingly stylish, proving that fashion need not shout to be well heard.

“Smarten things up, but make it slightly different,” he suggests. “Get that inner punk out… It doesn’t have to be punk, but the thing that’s slightly off about you.

“But I still like men in in tailoring,” he says. “I still think it has a value; it makes a man sharper. I don’t mean you have to go back to a shirt and tie. Try tailoring with easier pieces like trainers and T-shirts. Pay attention to detail by dressing tonally. And nailing the cut of the suit.”

03. Mr Dan Sablon, stylist and creative director

Finally, our Frenchman, the Parisian Mr Dan Sablon, a stylist and creative director. Sablon got his start in the industry working for Marc Jacobs (arguably at the designer’s peak) starting in 2010. “I was one of Marc’s creative right hands during shows, for his imagery and design. When I left, I wanted to freelance and open myself up to different points of view – I didn’t limit myself to designing.”

Now, while he still works on collections as a consultant, he mostly spends his days as a brand strategist and stylist. “My personal style is a mix of useful archetypes and I love clothes you can live in. I wake up early in the morning, but I never know when I’m going to go home, so when I leave, I have everything that I need for hours outside. My style is a projection of that. I dress in black a lot because I never know where I’m going to end up. I’ve ended up at weddings!”

Though we might not recommend this particular outfit for a wedding, a black leather jacket from LOEWE will likely be your ticket into most other events. Worn here with the most laid-back of staples – jeans (from mfpen) and a hoodie (The Row) – the bomber veritable explodes with personality in spite of its dearth of frills.

“I never think about full looks, I think about archetypes and shapes. Part of designing clothes is draping. The way I style is close to draping, adding more fabric so that I can make it personal. I love layering.”

He also loves the utilitarian staple of the moment: a hoodie. “VETEMENTS brought the hoodie to the forefront of essential clothing (like Hedi [Slimane] did with the skinny jean). I like when brands start to see that these items can be luxurious and they don’t have to code as too casual.”

Exhibit A is this Bottega Veneta cashmere-blend hoodie, which, thanks to a gloriously luxurious weight and excellent detailing, is miles away from its quotidian high-school ancestor. Sablon smartly selected a cashmere baseball cap from The Row to further subvert the sporty style.

“Luxury is comfort,” he offered as explanation. “The ultimate luxury is to be comfortable in your clothes.”