THE JOURNAL
Let’s face it. When it comes to certain things – food, supercar design, expressive hand gestures – Italians just do it better. And there’s one area in particular where no other nationality comes close: summer style. This is hardly a controversial statement, but what’s the explanation? You might argue that the ability to dress well in warmer weather comes with the territory – yes, summers in Italy are hot – but you could also say that about half of the countries on the planet.
More than just its climate, what makes Italy such a uniquely brilliant place for summer style is the combination of its famous “fatto a mano” handcrafting tradition, its historic tailoring industry, and a booming luxury sector that’s home to some of the world’s most influential brands. (Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tod’s and Zegna were doing “quiet luxury” years before Succession and Ms Gwyneth Paltrow’s courtroom appearances brought it to widespread public attention.)
Along with all of that, let’s not forget the fact that Italians are also an innately well-dressed bunch, possessing a singular sense of style that’s feted almost as much as their contributions to global cuisine. We’re putting that style in the spotlight this June with Al Fresco!, the second chapter in our Summer Stories campaign. More than fashion, it’s a broader celebration of Italian summer culture, and the laid-back lifestyle best summed up by those three famous words: “la dolce vita”. You can see more in our short film here – but if you’re just here for the clothes, then read on for five ways to channel your inner stylish Italian guy this summer.
01.
The finest fabrics from Loro Piana
Loro Piana was a textile supplier of some renown before it started producing its own clothes back in the 1980s, and a reputation for the highest quailty fabrics remains embedded in the heart of the brand to this day. Its cashmere is a speciality, but don’t sleep on its wider collection, which covers pretty much every aspect of the modern man’s summer wardrobe, from bermuda shorts to sandals and sunglasses, all executed in the brand’s signature low-key-yet-luxurious style.
One of our big highlights this season is this matching camp-collar shirt and trouser set in a gauzy linen fabric. They’re essentially pyjamas that you can wear in the daytime. What’s not to like?
02.
The magic of an unstructured suit
Among its countless other contributions to style and culture, Italy can genuinely claim to have invented the unstructured suit. It was Mr Vincenzo Attolini, a young apprentice cutter working for the Rubinacci tailoring house in the 1930s, who first removed the padding and lining from a jacket to better suit the stifling summer heat of Naples. In doing so, he invented the Neapolitan style of tailoring, characterised by soft lines, rounded shoulders and a shirt-like lightness, in direct contrast to the Savile Row style that was popular at the time.
Five decades later, Mr Giorgio Armani and American Gigolo brought unstructured tailoring to the masses, and today it’s everywhere. Here are two Italian brands of note – Brunello Cucinelli in the foreground and Brioni in the background – showing us how it’s done.
03.
Fancy footwork from Tod’s
You’ll know Tod’s from its Gommino driving shoe, one of the most recognisable hallmarks of classic Italian summer style, named after the pebble-like rubber balls embedded in the sole and heel (gommino in Italian). But it’s not the only trick up its sleeve. If you’re looking for an alternative to the iconic driving shoe – a point of difference, but with all of the laid-back elegance that has become such a trademark of Tod’s – try the brand’s elevated take on an espadrille. A hybrid between a suede penny loafer and a traditional Catalan espadrille, it hits the sweet spot between dressy and informal and is fast becoming one of our go-to shoes for summer.
04.
Better basics from Barena
Hailing from Venice, Barena represents a decidedly more undone vision of contemporary Italian style than the bold sartorialism of Naples or the clean-cut chic of Milan. Its generous, workwear-inspired silhouettes speak to the city’s history as a fishing port: there’s even a Venetian flat-bottomed boat known as a “sanpierotta” on the brand’s logo. But despite its rural origins, it’s no slouch: even its T-shirts and shorts have an elegant feel, thanks to smart fabric choice. Proof that, in the right hands, and with the right materials, wardrobe basics can be anything but basic.
05.
White tailoring from Massimo Alba
You’d think that the country that gave the world marinara, bolognese and ragu sauces would steer well clear of pale neutral fabrics. You’d be wrong. For the ultimate in al fresco dressing, there’s really nothing quite like a white suit. Massimo Alba’s version, unstructured and tailored from lightweight cotton, is ideal for warmer weather. This can be a tricky look to pull off, and the key to getting it right is to dress tonally. Here, we’ve completed the look with light beige loafers from Brunello Cucinelli, a cream-coloured woven belt from Anderson’s and an Oxford shirt in the palest sky blue from Barena.