THE JOURNAL

Cookie, Cotton Candy and Sweet N’ Salty Crazy Shakes. Photograph courtesy of Black Tap
From freakshakes and cronuts to big bowls of macaroni and cheese, here’s how to treat yourself this season .
As we flipped our calendars into September last week, we began to mourn the end of summer here in the MR PORTER office. But, ever ones to search for the silver lining, we are now focusing on the positives. Alongside the sad fact that we’re not going to be going to the beach any time soon, there’s the rather more calming notion that no one will see us there, and judge. So in celebration of sweater weather – and as a brief antidote to the #eatclean movement – we have rounded up the five best indulgence foods of the season and where to eat them. Think of it as “cheat week”.
The Gourmet Kebab

Paneer kebab with beetroot purée, pickled rainbow chard, crispy onion and curry mayo. Photograph courtesy of Le Bab
Le Bab, London
In London, the kebab is a guilty late-night pleasure, consumed by people who should know better and who still frequent places they probably shouldn’t go to. At least, if they are over 30. But it looks like the British capital may be in the process of a reassessment – maybe it was the stultifying influence of the EU that was holding us back? A hilarious thought, but, no, actually, the whole thing started last year with Mr Nick Green’s Chifafa, a Berlin-style fast casual lunch joint in Clerkenwell offering kebabs “made well and with love”. But this isn’t just a grab-and-go phenomenon, says Mr Stephen Tozer, one half of the duo behind Le Bab, London’s premier “gourmet kebab restaurant”. When it comes to kebabs, “Restaurants are responding with better ethics, better quality, and more innovation, and it creates a virtuous circle of improvement.” To be convinced of the fact, head to Kingly Court to try Le Bab’s inventive seasonal creations, including kebabs made with lobster, paneer, free-range chicken and 15-hour cooked pulled pork shoulder. The fondue fries are very nice, too.
The Cronut (Again)

Assorted cronuts. Photograph by Mr Thomas Schauer. Courtesy of Dominique Ansel Bakery
Dominique Ansel Bakery, London
Combining the elegant laminated dough of a French croissant with the lip-smacking glazes, fillings and deep-fried deliciousness of a doughnut, the Cronut has been pulling customers from around the globe to award-winning pastry chef Mr Dominique Ansel’s eponymous bakery in New York City since 2013, to much media kerfuffle. As of 30 September, Brits can also get a slice of the action, as Mr Ansel opens his first European bakery in Belgravia. As well as the ever changing menu of Cronut pastries – “no matter where we are… there is never a moment when we aren’t creating”, says Mr Ansel – 30 per cent of the recipes on offer will be bespoke creations for the capital. Look out for Welsh rarebit croissants and banoffee paella.
The Fried Chicken Sandwich

Fried chicken sandwich and fries. Photograph courtesy of Butchies
Butchies, London
The world is, of course, awash with eateries offering fried chicken of the lesser variety: grey, oily and with a similar after-effect to an ill-judged one-night stand – that is, shame. But when done well, fried chicken is one of life’s chief pleasures – deliciously crisp on the outside, juicy and tender on the inside. Now picture that, and then clap two layers of soft, white bread either side. Yes, it’s a veritable carnival of texture, taste and, presumably, calories, which now it’s September you deserve. In New York, the newcomer on this scene is fast casual empire Shake Shack’s Chick’n Shack, and a proven favourite is available at Mr David Chang’s Fuku in the East Village (who also deliver). But Bon Appetit gives its approval to the pretzel bun chicken sandwich currently available at Williamsburg pizzeria Emmy Squared. In London, we have a few less options, but this September the much queued-for east London food truck Butchies is opening a permanent outpost in Camden Market. If its previous pop-up in Dalston was anything to go by, the fried chicken should be, erm, clucking great.
The Freakshake

Stars + Stripes, The Donut Shake and Strawberry Cheesecake Crazy Shakes. Photograph courtesy of Black Tap
Black Tap, New York City
Invented by Pâtissez in Canberra, Australia, these awesomely excessive Willy Wonka-esque creations – essentially an ice cream milkshake combined with multiple desserts and sweet toppings – became Insta-famous, and within the past year have made their way across the globe. Our favourites come from New York’s Black Tap, the burger and craft beer joint from Michelin-starred chef Mr Joe Isidori, which had to open a new space this year to keep up with demand for the things. Try its Sweet N’ Salty Crazy Shake – which comes with pretzel sticks, Reese’s peanut butter cups and handfuls of M&Ms – for a slightly less saccharine option. Or, if you’re not in New York, pre-order Black Tap’s recipe book, which is out November 2016, and prepare to horrendously overindulge in the comfort of your own home.
The old faithful: mac ‘n’ cheese

The Mac Daddy at Dirty Bones. Photograph by The Gaztronome. Courtesy of Dirty Bones
Dirty Bones, London
When Burger King launched its Mac n’ Cheetos in the US earlier this year, the internet, as it tends to do every nanosecond, went crazy. Was it really all that newsworthy? No – the only explanation is that we are in the midst of a hopelessly nostalgic era and this combination of pasta tubes and cheese sauce seems to really push the right buttons. Still it tastes good, and now there are, of course, a wide variety of ways to eat it, because, these days, there’s always a hundred versions of everything. While you may be tempted by the much-hyped mac ‘n’ cheese-topped burgers – the best of which can be sampled at London’s Dirty Bones – we recommend taking a trip to chic Brooklyn-style restaurant Spuntino in Soho for a beautifully rich and comfortingly traditional version of the dish, updated with crunchy panko breadcrumbs.