MR PORTER dissects five outfits to uncover what makes the Oscar-nominated actor the king of the red carpet.

We hate to pull back the curtain on his smouldering gallic insouciance, as hard to capture as the smoke from a Gitanes, but Mr Timothée Chalamet is not, in fact, French. Well, he maintains a dual passport, but the actor was in fact born in Hell’s Kitchen and gets his French moniker from his father. Nevertheless, since he shot to fame in Mr Luca Guadagnino’s Call Me By Your Name (and earlier, as a privileged rich kid in Homeland), Mr Chalamet’s mode opératoire – on the red carpet at least – has been to exude a louche Left Bank aloofness and cool, taking the structure and mores of proper sartorialism – great suiting, slick cuts – and apply a more dynamic, energetic approach befitting his 23 years.

And, as the flash of the light bulbs dim over awards season, it’s clear that Mr Chalamet is part of a new contingent of red-carpet men who are embracing a more experimental wardrobe (see also Mr Chadwick Boseman and Mr Michael B Jordan). In an industry mired by toxic masculinity, this new crop of actors are happy to express themselves in sparkles, florals and enthusiastic colours. When you’re 23, you’ve got your whole life to don classic Armani tuxedos, after all. With that in mind, we’ve collated some of Mr Chalamet’s sleekest – and in some cases, most showman-like – looks. What a peach.

No one knows the rules of Savile Row tailoring better than Alexander McQueen, whose founder worked on the eponymous stretch of street, and no-one subverts them better either. Mr Chalamet has a penchant for the house’s bold suits, from this cerulean shaded single-breasted number riddled with coral rose embroidery (and check out those sneakers), alongside suits erupting in floral prints or in striking, solid red. Such theatrics can run to high campery, but Mr Chalamet pulls it back by being minimalist with everything else – a clean neckline, no extra adornment and those could-cut-glass cheekbones.

His recent outing at the Baftas in London showed his commitment to former Berluti designer Mr Haider Ackermann, whom Mr Chalamet befriended during the designer’s time at the French house. The actor donned a gleaming, patterned ensemble from Mr Ackermann’s own label that could have come straight from the wardrobe of Kings Road-era Sir Mick Jagger. The cut of the jacket and the matching shirt is sharp and lean, but the fragmented print and colours ooze rock-star rebellion.

It’s your first time at the Oscars, so you pay homage to the golden age of Hollywood. Mr Chalamet’s decision to wear an all-white tuxedo doffs a cap to the MGM days of Mr Fred Astaire’s pristine tops ‘n’ tails, but does so in his own youthful way. The cream Berluti tuxedo, worn with neat bow tie, is knife-edge crisp and his gleaming boots – not dress shoes or slippers – keep it modern and refined.

This is a fabric that can be ageing, and a tad costume drama, but Mr Chalamet has a particular method with traditional suit jackets and trousers – he pairs with a black T-shirt and boots to cut a more contemporary dash. This tone of this berry-shaded number also happily compliments his brooding dark looks.

Another day, another Berluti ensemble in his brief role as unofficial ambassador during the Mr Haider Ackermann years. This fawn jacket and olive trousers have military and workwear overtones – the colours, the upturned collar and the long, double-breasted front. The latter serves to highlight his slender frame while the utilitarian stance is a contrast to his delicate features.

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