THE JOURNAL
What is it with fashion designers and ranches? There’s Mr Ralph Lauren and his famous Double RL ranch in Colorado, which lends its name to the designer’s western-inspired menswear line, RRL. Then there’s Mr Tom Ford and his ranch in New Mexico, which he put up for sale in 2017 for a cool $75m. And did you know that Ms Gabriela Hearst actually grew up on a 17,000-acre ranch in Uruguay?
Look, we get it. Ranches are beautiful, their vastness is awe-inspiring, and they’re steeped in the romance of frontier mythology. Big skies, sweeping vistas, the wild… It’s all stuff that fashion designers, in their constant search for creative stimulation, are guaranteed to love. More importantly, though, the ranch is the spiritual home of one of fashion’s most influential and enduring archetypes: the American cowboy.
An icon of old-fashioned masculinity, the cowboy stands for freedom, self-confidence, and a tough, rugged outdoorsiness that’s conveyed through his uniform of Levi’s 501 jeans, beaten-up suede jackets and hard-wearing plaid shirts. The modern interpretation of Western style often seeks to subvert – just look at Lil Nas X – but even when it’s delivered with a knowing wink, the romantic, back-to-basics appeal of life on the ranch still shines through.
As if to underline the persistent influence of the Wild West on fashion, the cowboy has reared his 10-gallon hat again this summer – so isn’t it about we serve up some western style, with a little ranch dressing on the side?
01.
The CHERRY LA cotton-canvas jacket
The passion project of longtime friends Messrs Joseph Perez and David Levy, CHERRY LA represents a coming together of streetwear and classic Americana influences – and it’s the latter that shines through most brightly in their latest, Western-inspired collection. This rugged corduroy-trimmed cotton-canvas jacket is a blue-collar classic given a fresh coat of paint. Grab the matching cargo trousers, too, for the full ranch-hand look.
02.
The KAPITAL Kountry sweatshirt
It may be named after Kojima, the denim capital of Japan, but KAPITAL finds much of its inspiration in the world of old-school Americana. Its Kountry sub-brand is the purest expression of this, with retro silhouettes and pre-distressing techniques applied to give the finished garments a vintage feel. This sweatshirt is decorated with the kind of lettering you’d expect to see above a saloon door – but it’s the adjustable denim tab on the back that really sets it apart.
03.
The SAINT Mxxxxxx flannel shirt
The checked flannel shirt is a fundamental element of western style, a rugged piece of workwear relied upon for its hardwearing nature and simple, versatile looks. It’s re-interpreted here by streetwear brands SAINT Mxxxxxx and Shermer Academy, from LA and Tokyo respectively, in an oversized cut and with a heavily distressed finish that accentuates the garment’s utilitarian feel.
04.
The visvim pocket tee three pack
When you break it down, the western look is essentially a reflection of the western lifestyle. These are honest, hard-wearing clothes built to withstand the stresses of farm work. The T-shirt – another classic element of the American style – fits this description perfectly, and no western-inspired wardrobe would be complete without it. And the fabric-obsessive Japanese brand visvim makes some of the very best.
05.
The Enfants Riches Déprimés distressed jeans
While LA luxury streetwear brand Enfants Riches Déprimés is unlikely to ever be seen in the vicinity of a working ranch, it does a great job of reinterpreting and bringing new context to the cowboy look. And that’s seen here with these heavily distressed denim jeans, which come complete with workwear-inspired details such as a tool loop. A cool finishing touch, even if you never intend on using it.
06.
The CELINE HOME embroidered suede boots
Never let it be said that the western look is all function and no form. The cowboy boot is famous for its intricate embroidery and topstitching, a decorative style that inspired these slick suede boots from CELINE HOMME. Despite the rustic western inspiration, they’re an elevated, urbane choice that wouldn’t look out of place in the more well-heeled arrondissements of Paris.
07.
The Mr Johnny Cash-inspired Jacques Marie Mage sunglasses
The American West is one of the key inspirations for Jacques Marie Mage. The Los Angeles-based handmade eyewear specialist even collaborated with Diamond Cross Ranch in Wyoming last year for a collection of sunglasses in colours inspired by the dramatic mountainous landscape of the Grand Teton National Park. This pair from the “Wanted Man” range take their design cues from another major feature of the American landscape, albeit cultural rather than geographic: the Man in Black himself, Mr Johnny Cash.