THE JOURNAL
“It’s All About The Diamond In The Rough” – Stylist Ms Julie Ragolia On Her Start In Fashion
Collage by Mr Maxwell N Burnstein
“I knew it would be a big look, but I didn’t expect it would break the internet.” That’s how fashion stylist and MR PORTER FUTURES mentor Ms Julie Ragolia describes the immaculate SAINT LAURENT look that she selected for Mr Lakeith Stanfield at last month’s Oscars ceremony, and which garnered more attention than many of the red-carpet gowns. Ragolia also styled actor Mr Riz Ahmed, but insists, “I’m not a celebrity stylist – I’m an editorial girl.” Starting out at W Magazine, she’s since shot for Fantastic Man, Purple, WSJ and L’Uomo Vogue. Here, Ragolia talks about her fashion beginnings, how missing a Marc Jacobs show became a blessing in disguise and why she’s so excited to be part of MR PORTER FUTURES – and what you should bring to the programme.
**On her big break at ****W Magazine **and learning to listen:
“I put together my little portfolio of stuff and dropped it off at the agency Streeters and they were like, ‘Yeah, you’re not really ready for representation, but Alex White is looking for an assistant.’ I met with her and then I started working for her at W Magazine. It was really at W that I realised the degree of research that goes into a fashion story and what a magazine is all about. The level of mood boarding and the degree of art that goes into each shoot really hooked me. From Alex, I learnt how to be an observer. The greatest strength one can develop is learning to be quiet, pay attention and observe. Those are incredible skills and they’ve been eternally helpful to me. I think part of the reason why I can be a successful stylist is because I picked up those skills early on.”
On missing her first Marc Jacobs show, but meeting an important mentor in the process:
“It was the first time I was invited to a Marc Jacobs show. It was that season that Marc Jacobs started his show exactly on time and I was literally five minutes late, so I missed the show. But it became a blessing in disguise because around the corner there was a young menswear designer who was showing his collection as a presentation, so I walked over and Tom Kalenderian (the former VP of menswear for Barneys) was there. He walked me through the collection. I wasn’t trained in fashion – everything I know I’ve learnt on the job – and Tom was talking to me about Donegal sleeves and stitches, shoulder constructions and various things. I started in womenswear, but as a result of that meeting, I veered into menswear.”
On why she chose to become a MR PORTER FUTURES mentor:
“I’ve always loved being a part of the MR PORTER team, so a chance to work with them in this capacity is fun. The idea of creating a community of people from various sides of the industry and coming together to help the next generation become part of it is very appealing to me. The fact that we’re inviting people who’ve never sold a garment, but who could be cooler than someone who has been designing for 10 years, is exciting because it’s all about the diamond in the rough.”
On why an anonymous application process is so important:
“What’s very interesting about FUTURES for me is that it’s an open search. And the fact that we’re not privy to every detail of each applicant’s profile or background, is interesting. That it could be a designer who has never sold a thing, or someone who dreams of being a designer, or someone who didn’t think they’d have an opportunity. It’s open to everyone. It’s not about the establishment – it’s the opposite of establishment and that, to me, is really punk.”
On the qualities she’ll be looking for in a candidate:
“Honesty about who they are and what they really want to see come into fruition through a collection. To not see something based on what’s existed already. To not see something based on trends. People being true to who they are in their work. That resonates more than finding something that’s necessarily commercially viable. We don’t want a copy of something that is already there. We want people who are speaking from their heart and creating designs based on their own vision and their own integrity.”