THE JOURNAL

Mr Dwayne Johnson at a photo call in Madrid, 19 October 2022. Photograph by Shutterstock
What do you define as a big watch? For me growing up, it was any watch that Messrs Arnold Schwarzenegger or Sylvester Stallone wore. You know, the type that could detract from the bulging veins of their forearms (more often than not, a Panerai of some sort). “That watch is gargantuan,” I would later think to myself while rewatching films like Predator — Arnie wore his famous Seiko Solar Diver Ref. H558-5009 (aptly named “The Arnie”) — or Daylight — Stallone wears his Panerai Luminor Pre-Vendôme 5218-201A, a watch he kept for almost 30 years before selling at auction for $214,000.
“I wanted to wear a watch that no one had ever seen,” Stallone once said of his favourite over-proportioned timepiece. “I strapped this on my wrist that day and didn’t take it off until the end of filming.” The result was that before long, Sly, Arnie and the watches they wore – Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks, Panerais, IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s and so on – had ushered in a very visible trend for oversized timepieces. And while tastes have changed several times in the 25 years since then, the big watch is still with us. The perception has remained: whether you’re a free-weights addict or simply endowed with generous forearms, you should be wearing a similarly burly watch.
But is that true? Has the current generation of action stars shown us that in fact, there might be another way? Do simplistic ideas such as “the bigger the better” really still hold? Allow us to provide you with some tips and pointers on choosing a watch if you’ve got bigger wrists that won’t make you feel like you’ve been pigeonholed right from the off.
01.
Size
This is the big one, pun intended. As we’ve previously written, proportion is everything when it comes to aesthetics, and in the case of choosing a timepiece, every dimension is pivotal. The key question is: what kind of statement do you want to make? If your wrists measure eight inches around or more, for a watch to look “just right”, you actually don’t need to look much beyond a 43mm or 44mm design, depending on how thick it is, the type of strap and so on.
If you still want it to turn heads, go up to a 46mm case. The IWC Big Pilot on the wrist of Mr Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, pictured above, looks pretty normal-sized on his arm, but unless you really are his equal – and fair play to you if so – this is still going to bring big watch energy.
Alternatively, consider the statement downsizing can make. We’ve written about the fascination a lot of Hollywood stars currently have with pretty dainty watches – even styles usually considered as ladies’ designs – but everything’s relative. Mr Timothée Chalamet, a man who’d start looking nervously for hand-holds in a stiff breeze, can wear a dinky Cartier Santos. You will achieve the same effect with a medium-sized watch. Handily, the Santos actually comes in a variety of sizes, but anything from about 39mm to 42mm will work. Mr Jason Momoa nailed the brief recently with a rare A. Lange & Söhne on his wrist for Fast X, but has also been seen deploying a Cartier Tank XL to the same end.
02.
Colour
If you go big on both size and colour, the effect will be multiplied. A black watch dial, or all-black case, is the safest bet for those seeking to disguise a rather large timepiece. It works for Mr Micah Richards, former Man City defender and no stranger to a (presumably respectably heavy) set of dumbbells, with his Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea. Sticking to the basics is sensible in this size range, and has the added bonus of being, well, timeless. But if you’re willing to experiment a bit with the diameter, that’ll give you scope to be a bit braver with the hue. This also goes for gold and gem-set watches. Our friend The Rock is your guide once again: he wore a rose-gold IWC Portugieser Chronograph to the Jumanji premiere in 2019 that, at 44mm, should in theory be “a lot of watch”, but it’s just right. (In fairness, he was also wearing a fuschia-pink tuxedo jacket, which may have pulled focus just a little. But still.)

Mr Micah Richardsat the Etihad Stadium, Manchester, 3 May 2023. Photograph by Mr Matt West/Shutterstock

Mr Chris Hemsworth attends a premiere in Sydney, 27 June 2022. Photograph by Mr Don Arnold/Getty Images
03.
Style
OK, we hear you, it can feel like you’re boxed in to choosing either a diver’s watch or a pilot’s watch. Both are valid options, but as we’ve seen, there are other ways. It’s about having the confidence to realise that no matter your wrist size, there are dressy options as well as sporty ones. We mentioned Jason Momoa and his penchant for Cartier – sometimes it’s about picking the bigger sizes from a dressier brand, or family of watches. Like the IWC Portofino, which comes in a generous 45mm but has all the styling of an elegant, formal watch.
It bears repeating: the proportions make the watch. Consider the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, which you can see Mr Chris Hemsworth wearing above. It’s a wide watch, but ultra-thin, and has a wide bracelet that tapers around the wrist. That helps balance out the case diameter and gives you a dress watch option that’s both substantial and subtle.
04.
Material
For sure, you might not be averse to doing a few arm curls (OK, we promise, that’s our last reference to weightlifting) but that doesn’t mean you necessarily want a watch that could accidentally leave a dent in parked cars. Watch manufacturers are alert to the obvious truth that above 44mm, a watch in steel or gold is a hefty item, and now commonly give you options in titanium, carbon fibre or ceramic, all of which weigh considerably less.