THE JOURNAL
Verona Arena on the Piazza Bra, Verona, Italy. Photograph by Ms Olja Merker/Getty Images
Finding somewhere to go on holiday is often much easier than knowing what to do once you get there. Sure, you can trawl Google reviews looking for which restaurants aren’t terrible, but are you really scratching the surface of a place if you just go where all the other tourists go? This week, as part of our Style Council series travelling the world, we’re going to Verona, and for someone in-the-know on the city, there’s no better man to know than Mr Mo Coppoletta. As well as being a MR PORTER Style Council Member and an internationally revered tattoo artist, Mr Coppoletta was born and bred in Verona, and knows it well. Below, he gives us the lowdown on how to make the most of the Italian city.
Where to eat
Antica Bottega del Vino
Antica Bottega del Vino. Photograph courtesy of Antica Bottega del Vino
“Antica Bottega del Vino is a must stop while visiting Verona and risotto con vino amarone (full-bodied red wine from the Valpolicella area) is the restaurant’s signature dish. Trattoria al Pompiere is one of the best places in town to experience traditional and local food from the Veneto region. Casa Perbellini for a warm and outstanding gourmet experience (it boasts two Michelin stars). Tables are located in front of the restaurant’s open kitchen where you’ll admire chef Mr Giancarlo Perbellini and his brigade creating wonderful food.”
Where to drink
Vittorio Emanuele
Ristorante Caffè Vittorio Emanuele. Photograph courtesy of Ristorante Caffè Vittorio Emanuele
“The bar at Vittorio Emanuele restaurant sits under the galleries of Piazza Bra – be sure to stop by when you visit the Arena. Caffé Filippini, meanwhile, serves one of the most delicious aperitifs to be found – the Filippini – which is made with a secret recipe. For an after-dinner drink, my friend Claudio Peri’s The Soda Jerk is worth visiting. After spending some time perfecting his mixology skills in London, Claudio opened this incredible bar with outstanding quality drinks and a Veneto twist.”
Where to stay
Hotel Due Torri
Due Torri Hotel. Photograph courtesy of Due Torri Hotel
“Due Torri Hotel is right in the city centre – it’s one of most historical hotels in the city. Rooms are classically decorated, and spacious with marbled bathrooms.”
What to see
The Arena during a show of the Roberto Bolle and Friends Ballet. Photograph by Ennevi Foto, courtesy of Fondazione Arena di Verona
“Verona is an incredible city with plenty of history and archaeological sites. You should try and make time to visit: Piazza Bra with the stunning Arena; the Roman coliseum built in 30 AD; Romeo and Juliet’s famous balcony; Piazza delle Erbe, one of most charming squares in Italy; Castelvecchio, an impressive medieval castle built on the Adige banks in 1354 by the Scaligeri dynasty; Torre dei Lamberti, the tallest tower in Verona overlooking the whole city. Also take a trip to Lake Garda, and visit the charming towns of Bardolino and Lazise. Last but not least, you can’t miss opera season at the Arena, which runs from June till September – choose from La Traviata, Aida, Carmen and many more.”
What to wear
“Verona is a relaxed place. All things considered, smart-casual attire for both the cold and the warm season is what I’d recommend.”