THE JOURNAL

Montfort Fortress, Yam lYam Trail, Israel. Photograph by Mr David Vaaknin
If we are to accept that, according to Mr Mark Twain, “golf is a good walk spoiled” (let us not spoil a good quote by questioning its attribution), then a pilgrimage is a good walk elevated to a spiritual realm. Moreover, unlike golf, pilgrimages are booming.
Even before the events of the past 18 months put a premium on fresh air and the life-enriching pleasures of putting one foot in front of the other, demand was rising. On perhaps the most famous routes of all – those that lead to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain – record numbers of hikers were given certificates in 2019. There was also a leap in solo pilgrims, yet only 40 per cent of those surveyed said they were motivated by religion.
Demand for journeys that offer solitude, spectacle and purpose should only increase as we reset our expectations of travel. Pilgrimages stand to become more popular. They can also be tailored to budgets of time and money, while tour operators are often available to ease the burden of enlightenment by driving your luggage to the next hotel.
There are more of these often millennia-old routes than one might imagine, from epic treks across mountain ranges (or more manageable sections thereof) to accessible itineraries that nonetheless add a sacred dimension to the traditional romp.
01. Spain/Portugal
Camino De Santiago

Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Cuenca, Spain. Photograph by Mr Ben Roberts
There are several routes to the shrine of the apostle St James the Great in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, the historic capital city of Galicia. The reasonably flat Portuguese Way starts in Lisbon, more than 370 miles south, but a later section of that marathon, which starts in Porto, the country’s cool second city, is increasingly popular. From there, you can stick inland via Ponte de Lima, a charming stopping point that centres on a Roman bridge, or veer west to the coast past the beaches of Povoa de Varzim and the historic city of Viana do Castelo. Over the border in Spain’s northwestern Galicia region, the route heads inland to Santiago from the coastal town of Baiona.
What to pack
02. Tibet
Mount Kailash

Lha Chu Valley, Mount Kailash, Tibet. Photograph by Mr Samuel Zuder
A pyramid of rock in remote western Tibet known variously as Mount Kailash, Kang Rinpoche and Mount Meru is sacred to more than a billion Buddhists, Hindus and Jains, which makes it arguably the holiest peak on the planet. It’s also a stunning lone mountain that rises to more than 6,000m above plains and is home to a 32-mile pilgrimage route that encircles it. The peak itself is thought to be too sacred ever to have been conquered. Best reached via Lhasa, it is not the most challenging hike by high-mountain standards, but with thin air and tough ground, a typically three-day route demands good levels of fitness and an intrepid spirit. (Super-fit purists can try and complete the circuit in a single day.) The rewards are manifold, including monasteries and captivating views.
What to pack
03. Sri Lanka
Adam’s Peak

View of Adam’s Peak, Sri Lanka. Photograph by Mr Paul Springett/Alamy
It’s easy to stick with the honeymooning throngs on Sri Lanka’s famous beaches, but spiritual rewards are rich in the island’s interior. The jungle-bound cone that is Adam’s Peak dominates the hill country of the island’s southern reaches and is sacred in several religions. In Buddhism, for example, a depression near the summit is thought to be the footprint of Buddha himself. The village of Dalhousie is the traditional gateway to the peak and climbing, via an accessible but taxing stepped path, is traditionally done late at night in time for a sunrise summit (clouds frequently shroud the peak later in the day). There are teahouses and lighting along the way during pilgrimage season (normally December to May) before the sun does its thing and casts a long shadow of the mountain over the jungle below.
What to pack
04. Japan
Nakasendo Way

Nakasendo Way, Japan. Photograph by Visualspace/Getty Images
A vast trail covering more than 300 miles between Tokyo and Kyoto, this holy route was established in the 17th century as a trading way for feudal lords and merchants. Such was the success of those pioneers of Japan’s industrial growth that modern pilgrims link up stunning walks along the route with stretches on trains, which makes this an ideal adventure for anyone who might appreciate the occasional rest day. The generally mountainous terrain sits among the Japanese Alps. About halfway along, in the hilly, cobbled post town of Magome, for example, there are bewitching views of Mount Ena and the chance to stay in the kind of traditional inns that add heaps of charm to any variation of the Nakasendo.
What to pack
05. Middle East
Abraham Path

Wadi Kelt Canyon, Abraham Path, Palestine. Photograph by Ms Maja Daniels
A relative newcomer, at least as an accessible pilgrimage, the Abraham Path was established in 2007 as a way to unite people and restore hope in an often contested region, by forging connections between the communities living in the area and visitors from around the world. An evolving series of routes, it winds along what is believed to have been the path of the Bronze Age patriarch Abraham from his birthplace in Urfa, Turkey, to his final destination of the desert of Negev in southern Israel. Politics have continued to hamper efforts to expand the route, but sections of it are accessible. The Jordanian path is a five-day, 36-mile route from the northern city of Ajloun, near Amman, to the Sharhabil Bin Hassneh EcoPark in the Jordan Valley. Along the way there are lush meadows, castles, fig orchards and views to inspire faith in anyone.
What to pack
06. Israel
Yam Le Yam

Montfort Fortress, Yam lYam Trail, Israel. Photograph by Mr David Vaaknin
Israel has long been a land of pilgrimages. A million people in a normal year make journeys to the holy city of Jerusalem. Demand has driven innovation and Yam Le Yam is a relatively new, 47-mile sea-to-sea trail that links the Mediterranean and the Sea of Galilee. Starting in the city of Nahariya in Western Galilee, it stretches for three to five days from fertile coastal plains past the crumbling ruin of the Montfort Fortress before rearing up to Mount Meron, Israel’s second highest point. Before the long descent to the Sea of Galilee, the route also passes by Safed, one of Israel’s holiest cities. Set in dense pine forest, it combines ancient sites with hearty yemenite food and a vibrant contemporary cultural scene.
What to pack
07. Scotland
St Conan’s Pilgrims Way

St Conan’s Pilgrims Way, Scotland. Photograph courtesy of British Pilgrimage Trust
The UK is blessed with dozens of often neglected or overbuilt pilgrimages. Some of the best are in the wilder reaches of Scotland. The 73-mile St Conan’s route connects the Hebridean island of Iona, where St Columba brought Christianity to Scotland in the sixth century, and the village of Dalmally in Argyll and Bute, where St Conan, a disciple of St Columba, founded his own community. The east-west route can be done in either direction and includes two picturesque hops via ferry between Iona, the Isle of Mull and the mainland. Expect deer, golden eagles, an almost otherworldly rugged landscape and, unless you’re very lucky, changeable weather that ought not to dampen the spirits.