Where to find the best Scotch eggs in the capital.

Few snacks have a provenance as disputed as that of the Scotch egg. Though it was allegedly conceived as a posh picnic snack by British retailer-to-the-establishment Fortnum & Mason in the 1700s, it has also been also claimed that the Scotch egg’s traditional form – a hen’s egg encased in meat and breadcrumbs – has roots in India or north Africa, though not, confusingly, Scotland.

But wherever its origins lie, the Scotch egg lost its lustre in the latter half of the 20th century, no thanks to the cheap, plastic-wrapped versions stocked in petrol-station fridges nationwide. Happily, this sorrowful nadir also made the snack ripe for reinvention, along with every other piece of junk food under the sun, which brings us to 2017, the age of the artisanal Scotch egg. High-end ingredients, innovative twists and artful presentation have all helped restore this culinary icon to its rightful place in our pubs and picnic hampers. Here are six of London’s best.

The vibrancy of Jikoni’s colourful space in Marylebone is more than matched by Ms Ravinder Bhogal’s inventive menu, which draws influence from India, Africa and the Middle East. Among her selection of small plates with big flavours are three Scotch eggs that defy convention, with quail’s eggs at their core. There’s a delicate prawn-toast-encased Scotch egg served with banana ketchup, a vegetarian-friendly pumpkin option emboldened with tahini and dukkah, and a majestic venison offering that sits on a vivid smoked beetroot raita. Enjoy choosing which one to gobble down first.

jikonilondon.com

Making a noise amid Borough Market’s rowdy traders is a tough gig, but the Scotchtails team’s handmade Scotch eggs speak loudly enough for themselves. Messrs Oliver Hiam and Dominic Hamdy opt for a traditional pork and herb recipe that uses monarchy-approved Clarence Court eggs and a light panko coating, all of which keep queues constant throughout the week. They also put out weekly specials, including guest spots for merguez sausage, chorizo and black pudding, and if these soft-yolked beauties aren’t enough on their own, a lunchbox option comes with rough-hewn sweet potato fries and salad.

scotchtails.com

Although the Scotch egg may be anything but Scottish, there’s one London establishment from north of the border that succeeds in putting its stamp on the snack. Having graduated from a successful street-food operation to two permanent London spots in recent years, Mac & Wild’s insistence on serving Scotland’s finest produce translates into a particularly weighty Scotch egg that features wild venison, haggis and black pudding. Coated in panko breadcrumbs and freshly cooked to ensure a soft yolk, this is a must for any self-respecting carnivore.

macandwild.com

Flying the flag for the Scotch egg in its classic form is Mr Tim Wilson’s London butchery. Sitting tantalisingly in the windows of The Ginger Pig’s eight branches in the capital, these robust specimens are made by hand using traditional methods on its farm in North Yorkshire using the same high-welfare, rare-breed and slowly reared pork available over the butcher’s counter. With smoky bacon and quail’s egg options also on offer (as well as an unforgettable line in sausage rolls), The Ginger Pig is your go-to for a picnic pick-me-up.

thegingerpig.co.uk

Central London’s The Wigmore, which opened in the summer, is an upscale take on the traditional London tavern. No expense has been spared on its execution. The opulent Mr Martin Brudnizki-designed interior and menu devised by celebrity chef Mr Michel Roux Jr might not be to everyone’s taste, but the kitchen’s elevated twist on the Scotch egg alone warrants a visit. A picturesque soft-yolker that reflects the snack’s alleged Indian heritage, it’s masala-spiked and served with a fragrant dhal, which pairs beautifully with the fruity notes of The Wigmore’s signature ale.

the-wigmore.co.uk

It might cause traditionalists to raise an eyebrow, but this newly launched Hackney outpost has developed a hot take on the Scotch egg that sits proudly on its sophisticated menu. Jerk-glazed chicken takes the place of pork in Silver Lining’s Caribbean-accented bar snack, which founder Mr Alistair Maddox says was inspired by east London’s multiculturalism. A crisp breadcrumb coating, soft yolk and a fruity Scotch bonnet-spiked sauce make for a striking mouthful that takes the classic snack in a bold new direction.

silverlininge9.com

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