THE JOURNAL
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From left: Los Enamorados, Portinatx. Photographs by Ms Maria Santos, courtesy of Los Enamorados; Tarocco cocktail at The Standard. Photograph by Ms Luana Failla, courtesy of The Standard; Es Vedrà. Photograph by Mr Bjorn Agerbeek/Unsplash
An island of outrageous natural beauty, hedonistic high-jinks and fizzing cosmic energy, Ibiza is a sun-washed assault on the senses. With its own unique groove and a slew of shiny new arrivals unbolting their doors this season, it’s somewhere best explored with a dash of insider know-how. Read on for our guide to its many, many pleasures…
What to pack
01.
Where to stay
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Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel. Photograph by Ms Anna Lui, courtesy of Atzaró
You can’t miss Montesol Experimental’s custard-yellow façade, a hop from Ibiza Town’s yacht-packed marina. Its trippy interiors are the work of Parisian design doyenne Ms Dorothée Meilichzon. They riff on the island’s celestial radiation with moon-shaped niches carved into the walls, gleaming brass discs that bounce light around and cushions adorned with sunburst motifs. Come sunset, the Dalt Vila-gazing rooftop bar is where it’s at.
About as far from town as you can get, Los Enamorados lures a haute-bohemian crowd to the craggy far-northern reaches. They’re there for its soulful, go-slow mood, stone terraces strung with reed-topped parasols and sunny bedrooms draped in amber and raspberry-coloured linens.
Segueing into the cliffs above Cala Xarraca, a couple of miles along the coast, Six Senses Ibiza is a real sucker punch of a stay. It’s a world unto itself, with a subterranean wellness lair where top-of-their-game healers realign out-of-kilter bodies and spirits with nurturing treatments and intention-setting rituals. Expect cathartic chanting and lots of fire.
Head inland towards San Lorenzo and you’ll find Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel, a whitewashed farmstead splicing Balearic rusticity with contemporary verve. Here, the scent of orange blossom drifts into the terracotta-tiled suites from the surrounding groves. The hotel has its own beach club a short drive away on crescent-shaped Cala Nova.
Those who fancy having a slice of the White Isle all to themselves for a week (or longer) should consider Nay Palad Farm, a six-bedroomed whizz-banger dreamed up by former Bayern Munich goalie Mr Bobby Dekeyser. Having fallen hard for Ibiza’s untouched rural stretches back in the 1990s, Dekeyser snapped up this sprawling finca, not far from Sant Mateu d’Albarca, a few years ago, set to work putting his own stamp on it, then moved in. This summer, he’s flinging open its doors as an exclusive-use stay.
Though undeniably impressive, a paint-by-numbers party pad this is not. The emphasis is on nature-immersive downtime, with jewel-bright lounging spaces entangled in greenery, a natural swimming pond to counter the summer heat and countless chickens and rescue dogs to keep you company.
As for other attention-grabbing villas, Scott Williams has a seriously great line-up to pick from, some a mere stumble away from the Med.
02.
What to see and do
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Es Vedrà. Photograph by Mr Bjorn Agerbeek/Unsplash
It’s hard to overstate the beauty of Ibiza’s iridescent coves. Close to Portinatx, the horseshoe-shaped Cala Xuclar is about as good as it gets. Further east, bump along the dusty track to Cala Mastella, with its gin-clear waters and ramshackle boat houses. Or tread the scrubby path to cliff-backed Caló des Moltons, a secluded bay where flat, rocky ledges are lapped by shallows the colour of liquid jade.
Even more out of the way, scramble through a pine-flanked gorge and down a less-than-study rope ladder to reach the glittering Ses Balandres. And, as for arcs of creamy-white sand, Cala Saladeta must be one of the most idyllic.
Naturally, the island’s diminutive proportions mean its most alluring inlets are packed to the gills right through the summer, hence those craving a smidgen of privacy may need to get creative. With no license required to sail them, Bohemian Boat Charters’ wooden llaüts offer an ideal solution. Rent one for a day and the most enticingly serene chunks of coast, reachable only by boat, will be all yours. Time it so you reach Es Vedrà, the mythical islet said to be home to sirens and sea-nymphs, as the sun starts to dip and crack open an icy-cold Estrella in its honour.
Tear yourself away from the coast and you’ll find there’s plenty going on inland, too. Open only on Sundays, Espacio Micus houses the abstract driftwood creations of its namesake artist alongside works from a rotating bill of contemporary painters.
In Santa Gertrudis, check out Galeria Tambien’s ahead-of-the-curve exhibitions – currently showing is an edit of wall-hung sculptures by island-based ceramicist Ms Natalie Rich. And expect hip-shaking live music at the recently-revived Teatro Pereyra in Ibiza Town.
Get a feel for the caught-in-time villages by pottering about the mercados that line their heat-shimmered streets once a week – Sant Joan’s bustling hippie market is a decent place to start. Meanwhile, oenophiles ought to plot a trip to Ojo De Ibiza’s organic vineyard, with its stupefying Mediterranean vistas and well-stocked bodega.
What to pack
03.
Where to eat
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Mussel escabeche toast at Hämbre. Photograph by Sábado Sábado, courtesy of Hämbre
Just above Es Figueral’s wild, pine-shaded shores, cool-as-they-come Nudo turns out flavour-forward small plates (think briny clams swimming in brown butter, and slivers of raw tuna with tocino Iberico) steered by the seasons. Magicked together by three ex-Noma chefs and open only for lunch, this breezy chiringuito is one of Ibiza’s most-talked-about spots, meaning you’d better act fast if you want to snag a reservation.
Down on the southwest coast, you’ll find Jondal, another cracking daytime-only haunt that happens to be one of Mr Leonardo DiCaprio’s island go-tos. And don’t miss the bullit de peix (a slow-cooked Ibizan fish stew) at old-school El Bigotes, which looks out over Cala Mastella’s pellucid waters.
Half an hour’s drive inland, Casa Lhasa puts low-intervention wines front and centre with a winning line-up of local-leaning dishes to accompany them, the buzzy patio at Juntos House is a great bet for a starlit supper – order the lamb shoulder anointed with tangy green mojo. The same goes for Aubergine, with its pasture-to-plate menu and rickety tables dotted amid the trees.
Smack bang in the middle of Ibiza Town, El Zaguán is something of an institution, pulling a loyal crowd of locals and in-the-know travellers with its reliably delicious pintxos. Moodily-lit Hämbre, in nearby Santa Eulalia, endures as one of the hippest spots for dinner. The creative Mediterranean menu here is forever chopping and changing, but right now the standouts include the raw scallop with ham broth and the cashew-sprinkled kale salad (yes, really).
Ramen enthusiasts can slurp well-balanced bowls of the good stuff at Supūn, which opened in Sant Jordi last month. The Tokyo-style shoyu is the main event, but save room for the wagyu bao, topped with a just-so slathering of salsa criolla.
Speaking of Asian-accented brilliance, we’d be remiss not to mention Talamanca Bay’s teak-clad Nobu outpost. Score a table out on the terrace, go for the omakase menu and wash it all down with a glass or two of ice-cold Hakushu.
04.
Where to party
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Tarocco cocktail.
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View of Dalt Vila and the Old Town from the rooftop of The Standard. Photographs by Luana Failla, courtesy of The Standard
Opposite the church in sleepy San Carlos, Bar Anita is as good a place as any to get the evening started. Largely unchanged since the 1960s, this low-key hangout remains a magnet for the creative set, and the homemade hierbas hits the spot.
Sunset Ashram has long been the golden hour go-to – and for good reason, might we add. Hot on its heels is El Silencio, which sprung up on Cala Molí’s shores a few summers back. With low-slung seats strewn between the deck and the sand, and downtempo beats from the likes of Mr George Solar, watching the sun drop into the sea from here is quite the experience.
In Ibiza Town, Room Service is an indoor-outdoor affair on Carrer del Passadís with inventive drinks beneath globe-shaped lights. Just around the corner, The Standard’s rooftop has cemented itself as one of the hottest see-and-be-seen haunts. Things kick off around 10.00pm and you might catch Mr Luke Una on the decks. Then across the port at velvet-draped Club Chinois, anticipate sets from Apollonia and techno messiah Mr Ricardo Villalobos.
Psyched up for a big night? Join the wide-eyed club kids at always-thrumming DC-10. Or make for the Sant Josep mountains and hit up Cova Santa, where minimalist sounds from Mr Daniel Avery keep restless types shuffling until dawn.
Meanwhile, the much-loved Pacha is still the best spot to really let loose. Go on a Saturday to shake down to dance-floor fillers from the likes of DeBarge, Abba and Earth, Wind & Fire as whopping great technicolour peace signs float overhead. And with K-house icon Ms Peggy Gou lined up to close out the season there, the October grand finale is set to be pretty major.