Planted between breathtaking beaches and forest-cloaked mountains, Rio de Janeiro – aka the Marvellous City – is one of the world’s most seductive coastal cities. At times, it feels charmingly chaotic, from the golden sands of Copacabana Beach to the gritty, street-art-filled neighbourhood of Lapa. At others, it feels surprisingly serene, whether you’re strolling the bougainvillea-draped hills of the Santa Teresa neighbourhood or hiking the rainforest on the city’s outer edges. Cariocas (that’s Rio residents) go about their days, and nights, with a catching lust for life – and you’ll soon be swept along by the same zealous live-and-let-live attitude. Here, discover our top picks around the city.

For luxury lovers, the majestic Belmond Copacabana Palace hotel is arguably as iconic a site as Sugarloaf and Christ the Redeemer. The traditional interiors – think heavy floral curtains, plush carpets and picture-lined marble hallways – may initially feel a little at odds with the vibey beach-front setting, but it’s all in keeping with the hotel’s old-school glamour. And the balcony views? Some of the best in Brazil.

You may prefer to try a meal at MEE restaurant, the hotel’s Michelin-starred pan-Asian restaurant, and bed down at Fasano Hotel instead. It was architect Philippe Starck’s debut project in Brazil, and its rooftop pool is the place to linger all day – and into the night. Ear-shaped mirrors and Sergio Rodrigues chairs give every suite a grown-up feel – in keeping with its stylish Ipanema setting.

Ridiculously cool Chez Georges is the place to book in the boho hills of the Santa Teresa neighbourhood. It’s an homage to Brazilian brutalist design, and simple yet chic decor leans into 1970s-inspired minimalism. Panoramic views from the pool and a state-of-the-art recording studio make it a favourite for creatives, while every suite is named after a music-loving George, from Benson to Harrison.

Rio is a city where even the most touristy of activities will throw you into the brilliant, chaotic rhythms of local life. Case in point: a day soaking up the sun and the hypnotising energy of Copacabana Beach, where friends gather at virtually any time of day to sunbathe in skimpy swim shorts while sipping on beers and coconuts. It’s hot and hectic – in all the best ways – with turquoise tumbling waves providing the perfect respite from the heat. Where the golden sand meets the promenade, you’ll find dozens of foot-volley nets – a must-watch activity where people contort themselves into all sorts of positions in friendly yet competitive games of foot-volley (think volleyball with your feet).

Keen on something a little more relaxed? Try the stretch of sand in affluent Ipanema or venture to one of the outer beaches, such as 18km-long Barra da Tijuca. They may take a tiny bit more effort to reach (jump in an Uber, or hop on the Metro), but the reward is a bigger patch of sand to yourself and clear, green waters for obligatory wave-diving.

You’ll quickly see that Cariocas adore the beach – almost as much as football. An afternoon at the hallowed Maracanã, one of the world’s most legendary football stadiums, will kick things up a gear. You’re here partly for the football, with odds on local team Flamengo FC to win, but also the atmosphere: samba drums pound in a carnival-like beat, huge black and white flags swoop across the spectators and the crowd erupts into an eardrum-bursting roar with every goal. Ice-cold beers and hot dogs fuel the fun.

The city’s best viewpoints – including Sugarloaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer – need little introduction, but to escape the crowds you’ll want to venture up either site at first light, when a soundtrack of birdsong eases you into the day over tourist chatter.

Keen to slow the pace and escape the searing heat? The Museum of Modern Art is a vast, concrete modernist structure in downtown Rio that’s perfect for that. Spend some time wandering through the former warehouse that’s crammed with 11,000 pieces by Brazilian artists.

In the evenings, pavements fill with after-work crowds and sun-kissed beach-goers searching for a snack and refreshing lager. Join them at Adega Pérola, a botequim – or little historic gastro bar – just a few blocks back from Copacabana beach. Order at the counter and pile your pay-by-weight plate with whatever you fancy, from baby-octopus salad to tremoços – highly addictive lupin beans that you eat like crisps. On the side? Numerous chilled Brahma beers.

Take in the sunset at locals’ favourite Bar Urca in Botafogo. Hundreds of people gather to sit on the oceanside wall, sipping rum-muddled cocktails and beers while snacking on coxinha – fried, tear-drop-shaped dough and chicken parcels – to see them through until dinner.

The best meal in the city may just be at Assador, a stylish all-you-can eat steakhouse with Sugarloaf and Christ the Redeemer views across the bay. Smart waiters buzz around the space, offering up servings of perfectly pink tomahawk and fillet mignon, with options of lamb, pork and chicken. Even the salad buffet will linger in the memory for years to come.

In the flower-filled streets of Santa Teresa, Aprazível is a family-run treehouse-style restaurant with open-air wooden terraces and views of the city’s twinkling lights. You’re not just here for the romantic setting but for the grouper and heart of palm – two of the city’s most sought-after dishes.

And then on to Rio’s heady nightlife scene. In Lapa, locals tumble out onto the street drinking cachaça cocktails and beers until the early hours at the hundreds of bars. Rio Scenarium is a must-experience, where locals happily mingle with travellers keen to revel in the real Rio. The birthplace of samba is a multi-roomed, multi-floored space of live music, where you can sink into velvet armchairs and marvel at the eclectic antiques in one area or break a serious sweat on a packed dance floor in another.