THE JOURNAL

The bar at Bistro Carmagnole. Photograph courtesy of Bistro Carmagnole
Where to eat and drink in Germany’s vibrant second city.
Germany’s industrious second city makes for a memorable weekender, its evolving skyline and international influences the hallmarks of its history as one of Europe’s liveliest ports. Boasting a 24-hour nightlife, world-class galleries and a food scene that mixes multiculturalism with heritage, there’s plenty to fit in before the return flight.
To the west of its scenic centre, Hamburg’s cultural and culinary heartland stretches from buzzy Sternschanze down to St Pauli and the still-sleazy charms of the Reeperbahn – beloved of sailors seeking some fun for generations. Beyond that, Hamburg’s maritime ties remain strong, its large population of the similarly seafaring Portuguese manifesting itself in red-and-green festooned cafes along the River Elbe (expect the best pastéis de nata outside Iberia) while the fish market has become a go-to for the weekend party crowd seeking sustenance at dawn. And rising from the rapidly developing HafenCity docks, an angular concert hall, the Elbphilharmonie – expected to rival Sydney’s opera house – opens early next year, giving Hamburg plenty to sing about at the moment.
Ahead of next week’s impressively curated Reeperbahn Festival, we’ve picked out Hamburg’s hottest spots to see you from day to night to day again.
This is the third in our series of insider food guides to lesser known culinary destinations. Check out our tips for Ghent, and Margate here

For breakfast

Photograph courtesy of Café Vju
Café VJU
St Pauli’s hulking concrete Energiebunker – formerly a WWII air-raid shelter – is undoubtedly one of Hamburg’s most striking buildings. By night, it hosts the infamous Uebel & Gefährlich (Evil and Dangerous) club night on the fourth floor and, by day, expect less threatening fare at Café VJU. Set in a turret 100 feet above street level, its views are a major draw, as are the fortifying flat whites made with beans from the in-house roastery and a buffet-style brunch – worth booking in advance – that includes trout, salmon and homemade granola.
Neuhöfer Straße 7. vju-hamburg.de
For lunch

Photograph courtesy of Bullerei
Bullerei
Fittingly housed in a reappointed abattoir, carnivore-centric Bullerei is the brainchild of German celebrity chef Mr Tim Mälzer and its cuisine is appropriately blockbuster, marking it out as a staple on Sternschanze’s culinary map. Its airy, red-brick space is a popular spot among a sophisticated set who come for high-end cuts of meat served in imaginative formats. Bullerei also has an outdoor terrace for warmer days and with the Altes Mädchen brewery located next door, lunchtime can quickly turn into an all-day affair.
Lagerstraße 34b. bullerei.com
For dinner

Calamaretti. Photographs courtesy of Bistro Carmagnole
Bistro Carmagnole
After making a name for themselves helming Hamburg’s popular Golem bar, Mr Alvaro Pina Otey and Ms Maria Endrich opened French-inspired Bistro Carmagnole in 2014, carving a Gallic niche within Hamburg’s food scene. Intimate, detail-oriented and with more than a hint of film noir to its decor, Bistro Carmagnole offers a menu of reimagined French classics, as well as fortnightly changing menus use fresh, local and seasonal ingredients – expect top-notch bourguignon and steak tartare, as well as a strong wine list. Plus, as evening turns into night, switch cutlery for cocktail menu as the bistro turns into a seductive after-dark bar.
Juliusstraße 18. carmagnole.kr
For drinks

Left: Le Lion. Right: a Prince of Wales cocktail. Photographs courtesy of Le Lion
Le Lion
A regular entry near the top of the World’s Best Bars lists, Le Lion is a go-to among Hamburg’s sophisticated late-night crowd, and it’s easy to see why. This super-sleek cocktail bar, overseen by its titular gilded lion, was envisioned by major-league mixologist Mr Jörg Meyer as “a classic bar in every sense”. He introduced his Gin-Basil Smash to the world in 2008 and it remains a major draw among his more traditional libations. And earlier this year, Mr Meyer opened the Pine Room on the first floor, keeping him at the forefront of the city’s cocktail scene.
Rathausstraße 3. lelion.net