THE JOURNAL
Mr Neil Rankin. Photograph courtesy of Pitt Cue
How to give your stuffing a twist this Christmas.
Christmas isn’t the time to stray too far from the traditional. Your guests will be expecting a generously sliced bird or rib of beef on a table groaning with accoutrements. And it’s with these extra elements that you can start applying your own festive signature. The stuffing, for example. Not only does it add flavour and texture to your choice of meat, but it’s the first name on the team sheet when it comes to your trademark Boxing Day sandwich. Try these top chefs’ twists on traditional stuffing and lap up the plaudits.
Mr Tommy Banks, The Black Swan at Oldstead
Use black pudding
Mr Tommy Banks is chef patron of the Best Restaurant In The World, after winning Trip Advisor’s top award earlier this year. He and his brother Mr James Banks took over their parents’ local when they were 17 and 18 respectively and it’s improved every year. Eleven years, one Michelin star, four AA Rosettes and two places at the banquet on BBC’s Great British Menu later, the brothers Banks are among the UK’s best-regarded restaurateurs. Christmas is a traditional affair in their house, but when it comes to the stuffing, the lads keep it local by adding their own Yorkshire twist. “I use black pudding instead of sausage meat when I make the stuffing,” says Mr Banks. “I use one that’s produce by Haighs and is handmade in a small village near our restaurant. Its black pudding is called Doreen’s and it’s fantastic stuff. Mix it with a splash of port for a take on stuffing that’s traditional, but just a little bit different.”
Mr Neil Rankin, Temper
Try bone marrow
“Stuffing – like most Christmas dishes – is best kept recognisable if you’re going to avoid riots,” says Mr Neil Rankin, who has two restaurants in London that serve some of the best slow-cooked meat in the country. “First, don’t cook the stuffing in the bird as it blocks the airflow, generally gets overcooked, slows down the cooking time and increases the chances of drying out the breast,” he says. “Better to cook it below the bird with the roast vegetables near the end of the cooking time so the juices will drip on it and pick up some of the flavour.
“Sage for me is staple, but mint adds a subtle freshness, as does tarragon. Pork sausage meat is also staple for me, but adding some tasty, aged beef mince adds a funky edge to it. You could also try bone marrow, chopped up turkey skin or some chopped up Iberico ham fat in the mix. In terms of spice, don’t add anything too hot as it would be weird, but Sichuan peppercorns can add a spicy hum to the stuffing without taking it too far.”
Ms Angela Hartnett, Murano, Café Murano, Lime Wood
Add some almonds and apricots
One of the finest chefs in the UK, Ms Angela Hartnett is known for her Italian food. But that doesn’t mean she peppers her stuffing with herbs and spices the colour of the Azzuri flag. “The most important things that stuffing brings to the meal are sweetness and texture,” she says. “I add chopped almonds and apricots for this, while keeping typical ingredients such as roasting herbs and sausage meat. The main thing is to keep the traditionalists at the table happy.”
To make Ms Harnett’s stuffing, take about 500g of good-quality sausage meat, chop 50g dried apricots and almonds, a handful of chopped onion, one chopped garlic clove and a picked handful of thyme and sage. Mix it all together and roll into a sausage shape. Wrap it in foil and cook with your festive meat for the final 45 minutes. Slice it when the bird is ready, or place it around the edge to pick up the roasting juices.
Stuff in your stocking
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