The Italian’s have got tailoring down; British-made shoes are unrivalled the world over; and France has that certain something that has made it the breeding ground for many of the globe’s most successful luxury labels. But when it comes to understanding what men want from their everyday wardrobes, it is Japan that, arguably, stands out more than any other. Why this is the case is a question we put to Mr Masaaki Homma, the enigmatic founder and designer behind cult streetwear brand mastermind, which lands on MR PORTER today. “I think it depends on the brand,” is his diplomatic answer. “Though Japanese designers tend to be quite particular about details,” he adds.

Details are everything to Mr Homma. After all, this is a man who, according to established brand lore, drafted and redrafted mastermind’s iconic skull and crossbones logo more than 1,000 times before settling on just the right configuration. “My plan was to design a skull with a positive meaning,” Mr Homma tells us. “Skulls are a poignant motif in Buddhism and other religions where it is representative of the cyclical pattern of existence and the fact that beauty can be found in both life and death. To me, the skull symbolises a fight until death to fulfil one’s destiny.”

This philosophy – a yin-yang of perfectionism and poeticism – applies as much to Mr Homma’s overall line as it does the fashioning of the ideal memento mori. “I tend to use trial and error for all design processes,” he explains, but it’s not quite as orderly or methodical as it might first appear. “I think about designs every day and every night,” he says. “My mind never stops working, so I could get inspired at any given time.” Music, for example, is a constant source, but he’s not picky about what’s playing on the radio. “I’m quite open,” he tells us. “I enjoy listening to old songs from the past [as well as] the latest music, there isn’t any particular band or musician that I tend to listen to.”

Detail-oriented he might be, but when it comes to describing his label’s success as one of the most sought-after streetwear labels in the world, Mr Homma is less forthcoming (and, perhaps, a little humble). “It just happened,” he explains (or, rather, fails to). Though, he adds, “I must say, it was much harder than I expected it to be.” Though the precise journey he took before establishing mastermind in 1997 is a little murky, it’s certain Mr Homma started his career in retail for legendary Japanese designer Mr Yohji Yamamoto, an experience which continues to shape his aesthetic. “I have always looked up to him and still do to this day,” he tells us. “I learnt a lot during my time [there] and if I didn’t have that opportunity, mastermind wouldn’t be what it is today.”

What mastermind is today is, in fact, two different brands: mastermind JAPAN, which serves the domestic market, and mastermind WORLD, which caters to the global one. “In 2017, after a five-year break, I decided to return with two collections… just in time for our 20th anniversary.” It’s the latter which you can shop on MR PORTER and it incorporates many of the crowd-pleasing signatures of the original line: standout logos, checks and lots and lots of black, as well as some more crafty elements, such as handmade prints, embroidery and even faux fur. “I am always looking for new techniques [and] fabrics that I can explore and implement into my collections,” he reveals.

So, what’s to come for mastermind? During Mr Homma’s hiatus, the brand continued to collaborate – joining forces with A Bathing Ape, adidas Originals and Vans, among others – and it’s an arena he and the label will still engage with. “It is an opportunity to work with other labels that you respect and [you can] bring two brands together and create something special for the customers of both brands,” he explains of his attitude towards his partnerships. “I don’t look at how big or famous the brand is; the most important is for there to be mutual respect and understanding.” Next up? A limited collection with work boot specialist Timberland. Watch this space.