THE JOURNAL
How To Make London’s Best Dishes: The Egg Salad Sandwich From Sons + Daughters

Sandwiches are getting an upgrade. No longer are they just a forlorn-looking pre-packed lunch to be eaten at your desk: some of the capital’s best chefs are turning their attention to that humble combination of bread and fillings. From soy-braised Korean beef at Max’s Sandwich Shop, to roast chicken, sweet potato, salsa criolla and yellow pepper mayo at Bodega Rita’s, or Balinese spiced porchetta, pickled watermelon and tamarind sambal at Snackbar, inventive creations are turning the British comfort food favourite on its head. Now, Mr James Ramsden and Mr Sam Herlihy, the founders of Pidgin – the esteemed east London restaurant that changes its menu every week – are getting in on the carby action. Sons + Daughters is their new venture in the Coal Drops Yard development near King’s Cross, and promises a modern take on a classic sandwich shop.
“Uncertain times call for comfort food, and there are few things more reassuring than a sandwich,” says Mr Ramsden of the growing trend. “Seriously, what is greater than a sandwich? It’s the blankest of canvases on which to mess around with flavours and textures. We want to make them an event, as opposed to something to grab and inhale in two minutes.”
The menu in the bright, pared-back space, clad in monochrome tiles, includes a concise selection that spans mortadella with taleggio, smoked Isle of Wight tomatoes and rocket; or Cornish prawns, mayo, prawn crackers, napa cabbage and pickled ginger and jalapeno vinaigrette. Alongside, there’s sriracha salt fries, barrel-aged negronis and soft serve ice cream. “Our aim is to take classic, old-school sandwiches and apply the same thought processes to develop them as we would a dish at Pidgin,” says Mr Ramsden. “There were plenty of missteps,” he continues, “we’d start with an ingredient – mortadella, egg, merguez – then run with it. We feel we’ve got some great sandwiches, and we built other things around them that we like to eat.”
Since the opening in September, it’s the Egg Salad S+Dwich, with Burford Brown eggs, miso mayonnaise, truffle crisps and salad cress, served on soft-as-you-like white bloomer, that’s been garnering serious Instagram fame. “Weirdly, neither of us were that wild about egg sandwiches,” says Mr Ramsden. “But we thought we had to do one. Egg and cress was the starting point, and we reckoned miso could take things up a level. And what’s better than truffle? Even better, truffle crisps! Then we came across Growing Underground’s amazing cress mixes, and they sealed the deal – we’re pretty happy with it.”
“Don’t hold back on the mayo,” says Mr Ramsden. “Don’t slice the bread too thin – but not too thick, either, unless you like taking four hour naps in the afternoon. And you don’t want the egg too cold.” But other than that, “it’s a pretty simple preparation”.
Makes 1
Egg Salad S+Dwich
Ingredients:
- 3 medium Clarence Court Burford Brown eggs
- Two slices of white bloomer bread, each around half an inch thick.
- 10g coriander or shiso cress
- 25g truffle crisps (we use Torres)
For the miso mayo:
- 35g mayonnaise
- 8g white miso paste
- 8ml mirin
Method:
Firstly, make the mayo. Simply mix all the ingredients thoroughly in a bowl.
Next, boil the eggs for 6 minutes and leave at room temperature until cool. Peel and chop them, but not too fine – you want a bit of texture.
Keep back around two tablespoons of the miso mayo, and gently fold the rest through the eggs.
Spread the reserved miso mayo on each slice of bloomer.
Spoon the miso mayo and egg mixture over one of the slices, and top with the cress or coriander if using. Add a thick layer of truffle crisps, then top with the remaining slice of bloomer and give it a squash.