THE JOURNAL
Crab Bun at Barrafina. Photograph courtesy of Barrafina
Where to eat top-rated food for a lot less than you’d think.
In 1900, despite there being shy of 3,000 cars on the roads of France, Messrs Édouard and André Michelin, purveyors of fine tyres, printed nearly 35,000 copies of a guide to the best restaurants in France. Their aim was to increase demand for cars by stoking a desire to traverse the country on gastronomic pilgrimages. The Michelin guide was a roaring success. A one-star review meant a “very good restaurant”, two stars meant “excellent… worth a detour” and three “exceptional… worth a special journey”.
Today there are 28 guides available on cities and countries around the world. But, in recent years, the glimmer of Michelin stars has dimmed. To some critics, Michelin seems out of touch (check out its oft-ridiculed Twitter account for evidence of this) and overly formal – a guide for those who prize starched tablecloths and reassuringly expensive bills more than innovative cooking. Some chefs have complained of the burdens of gaining Michelin recognition, too; the most famous example is chef Mr Sébastien Bras, of Le Suquet restaurant in Laguiole, France, who asked for his three stars to be removed.
However, as dining out becomes increasingly informal, the notoriously stuffy guide has started to loosen up a touch. It has broadened its horizons with guides to Bangkok, for example, and in 2016 it gave one of its stars to a street-food chef in Singapore.
Din Tai Fung, a Taiwanese joint specialising in steamed dumplings, is another surprising addition to the guide. The startlingly cheap fast-food eatery – which is coming to London’s Covent Garden this year – shows that you don’t need half of your month’s wages to enjoy Michelin-approved food. With this in mind, we tracked down the best Michelin-starred restaurants in the world where you can eat without breaking the bank.
Septime, Paris
Photograph by Mr François Flohic, courtesy of Septime
Head to Septime for its set lunchtime tasting menu and you’ll enjoy a lighter meal – not always easy in the French capital – that’s famed for its seasonal French ingredients. Particular highlights are white asparagus, hay-smoked trout and mushroom ice cream. A delight, and at €42 for a four-stage journey through Michelin-starred food, it’s some of the best-value dining in Paris.
80 Rue de Charonne, 75011
Tim Ho Wan, Hong Kong
Photograph by Mr Lucas Schifres/Getty Images
Hungry diners form snake-like queues at this second branch of Tim Ho Wan, salivating for dim sum. Started by the former dumpling master of Hong Kong’s Four Seasons Hotel, Mr Mak Pui Gor, Tim Ho Wan’s beauty is its simplicity: it serves 25 different dim sum, from shrimp dumplings to the oozing, baked barbecue-pork bun, in a refreshingly unpretentious setting. Two people can eat for around £25.
9-11 Fuk Wing St (Ground Floor), Sham Shui Po
Meadowsweet, New York
Photograph courtesy of Meadowsweet
The glass-fronted Meadowsweet is tucked in underneath Williamsburg Bridge. Oil paintings of meadows adorn the walls, helping to make the experience of eating here a relaxing one. They serve an American menu with a Mediterranean twist – think duck with braised red cabbage and squid-ink fettuccine with chorizo – as well as a vegan option, too. Prices range from $12-15 for entrées and $25-30 for mains. Which will leave you with plenty to spare for some post-dinner cocktails.
149 Broadway, Brooklyn**, NY 11211**
Tsuta, Tokyo
Photograph by City Foodsters
As the first ramen restaurant in the world to get a Michelin star in 2015, Tokyo’s Tsuta draws the crowds. You’ll need to queue up early, around 7.00am, to get a seat at the nine-spot restaurant, which operates on a strict timeslot ticketing system. It might sound trying, but it’s worth its quirks when you realise a bowl of the world’s best ramen will set you back a mere £10.
1 Chome-14-1 Sugamo, Toshima 170-0002
Barrafina, London
Photograph courtesy of Barrafina
The Hart brothers’ Barrafina in London’s Soho is a pocket-size bar serving Spanish tapas and sherry. Walk past its large windows, often open in the summer months, and you’ll see the charm that exudes from its metal-topped counters, on to which the likes of salt-cod fritters and scallops are served with generous bonhomie. Getting a spot can be tricky, but persevere. Plates cost between £5 and £20.
26-27 Dean Street, W1D 3LL
All The Stars
