THE JOURNAL

Left and right: Dries Van Noten SS19. Centre: Officine Générale SS19
Effortlessly tousled locks require a little effort.
Were you blindsided by the jorts, bucket hats and man bags at the SS19 shows, you’d have overlooked the grooming revolution occurring on the heads of models. After years of tight fades, buzz cuts and French crops, natural texture is back with a vengeance. Officine Générale and Dries Van Noten championed curly locks, cherubic corkscrews and a meticulously dishevelled vibe, the kind that brought Mr Penn Badgley some unwanted attention at the hand of overenthusiastic Gossip Girl fans.
The irony of tousled, curly hair is that it takes a great deal of work to make it to look natural and coincidental. Without the assistance of a barber or, indeed, the right haircare products, it’s quite easy to veer into Mr Leo Sayer territory and end up looking like you’ve had an accident with a bowl of ramen. We turn to London’s leading stylists for advice.

Get the right kind of haircut
Much like growing a beard, cultivating curls requires maintenance. Regular visits to the barber will ensure your cut stays well-proportioned and you avoid split ends. “You’ll need to take the bulk away from the roots so that the hair can get longer and gain its own weight and texture,” says Mr Darren Fowler, creative director of Fowler35. A good stylist will be able to use layering techniques to reduce weight but, crucially, keep a little movement.
“The most important thing is that you do not let anybody come near you with a pair of texturising scissors,” warns Mr Fowler. This fatal and all too common mistake is irreparable. Not only will texturising scissors encourage split ends, but your hair will get progressively bigger.


Fight the frizz
Conditioning and moisturising products will become your ally as you embrace your natural texture. You can never have too much moisture. Apply a hair mask before bed, wear a leave-in conditioner during the day and – this is a tricky habit to undo – avoid over-washing your hair as every shampoo will dry out your locks.
Mr Fowler recommends investing in a good hair oil or conditioning product, such as Baxter Of California Grooming Lotion. “Cheap products sit on the surface of the hair and attract dirt,” he says. “You need something nourishing that will close the cuticles so that you get a soft, smooth finish.” Whichever moisturising product you opt for (and we really do recommend Marie-Stella-Maris No.51 Nourishing And Revitalizing Conditioner), be sure to apply it at the root, not just the tips. “If the roots stay together then, by default, the ends stay together.”


Style like you didn’t mean to style
You’ve probably figured out that it’s worth steering clear of alcohol-based styling products, “crunchy” mousses or heavy products that will flatten the hair. This leaves you with oils, salt sprays, conditioning creams and lotions. Mr Daniel Martin, session stylist and global styling ambassador for Goldwell, has a method that combines all of the above, but in distinct stages. “Curly hair always seems to look best when you’re at the beach. There’s something about that combination of sea salt, suntan lotion and sweat that works wonders,” he observes.
To recreate the carefree beach look, apply a salt spray, such as Blind Barber 40 Proof Sea Salt Spray, to wet hair and follow it with a leave-in conditioner. We recommend Sachajuan Leave-In Conditioner. “The more salt there is, the more of a curl you’ll get,” says Mr Martin. “Allow hair to dry naturally, if possible. But if you must blow-dry, be sure to use a diffuser. Avoid towel-drying or using a brush or comb at all costs.” Once hair is dry, you can shake out the curls for maximum effect.
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