A watch might be a very small part of a man’s outfit, and one that with the advent of smartphones has become seemingly obsolete. But the right watch worn well can also be a powerful accessory that helps you look put-together. All well and good, but, as one MR PORTER reader pertinently asked us recently, how do you match your watch to your outfit? Below, from classic watches to diving watches, we present a comprehensive guide to the different types of timepieces, and the clothes to wear with them.

___

Do you have a guide for what type of watch to wear with your outfit?

@the_ruseter via Instagram

___

It’s a pleasure to come across such a query in an age where smart devices are rumoured to have made the watch redundant. There are those who steadfastly believe you should wear your signature watch whatever the sartorial weather, the gentlemanly equivalent of a calling card. But there are many more – as can be seen by the trade in watch cases designed to house multiple variations while you travel – who swap their timepiece as much as they do their shirting. While there’s something wonderfully eccentric about donning your glitziest Cartier dress watch over your eggs in the morning, or something Bond-esque about wearing a smartwatch with traditional evening jacket (you might need to coordinate your helicopter, after all), as a general guide, certain watch categories demand certain stylistic mores. Let’s break them down.

These watches are the equivalent of a pristine, navy single-breasted suit or an elegant white shirt – a perennial that will fit seamlessly into any man’s wardrobe. We’re talking about icons such as the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, the Montblanc TimeWalker, the TAG Heuer Carrera (technically a driving watch, but it’s classic enough to work with any ensemble), in a classic grey steel, with subtle granite or blue-hued dials.

These masculine, solid stalwarts will nicely offset a sharp white shirt cuff. They speak of command and professional prowess, which is why the aforementioned suit and shirt is a strong accompaniment. They’re also subtle enough to blend seamlessly into a weekend wardrobe of dove-grey cashmere sweaters and jeans, but it’s while glinting across the boardroom in your smartest attire that they come into their own.

Categorisation of timepieces tend to blend into one another – “sports” might feasibly segue into “diving” for example – but in their broadest sense, sports watches are of a somewhat dynamic nature, often with a chronograph function (and subsequent markings sub dials) that allows dual timing. And such a watch looks at odds with a corporate wardrobe. While you don’t want to look gym-ready – too painfully co-ordinated – this kind of timepiece allows for an easier set of rules. A neat white polo shirt and chinos will allow the often busy dial to stand out on its own, likewise a padded gilet or jacket sleeve. Keep the colours of your outfit muted to masculine greys, blues and whites for this purpose, too.

This specific division of the sports watch realm focuses on the cut and thrust of, well, motorsports and all things aquatic, with an aesthetic that’s bold and graphic – the visuals need to be in-your-face and the components large-format to help decipher the details at 120mph or 40 meters down. Such aggressively adventurous timepieces call for dynamic, sports-accented attire – bomber jackets in supple suede, the ribbed cuff framing your timepiece nicely, or a yachting jacket, fresh white chinos and boat shoes in the manner of Mr John F Kennedy in Nantucket. Avoid car logos with your driving watch unless you want to look like Joey from Friends and his make-believe Porsche.

The most debonair of the watch world, this raffish older brother to the freshman sporty watch is Mr Cary Grant in horological form – all black patent-leather straps, guilloche dial details and discreet gemstone action – and requires an appropriate dress code. This is an after-dark watch fit for cocktail hour, so your sharpest black suit, most polished evening attire or tuxedo in plushest velvet are the happy bedfellows here. Add a hint of lustre that will complement the gleaming shades of the watch, such as patent shoes or glinting cufflinks.

While their very nature – of coordinating every facet of existence – might suggest that they work fluidly with everything, the giants of Palo Alto veer towards a way of dressing that suits the smart watch’s minimalist tendencies. So low-key jeans (but by the most artisanal of denim labels), neat cashmere sweaters (but in the best yarns) and cult sneakers. Whether you go full Mr Steve Jobs in black polo neck is entirely up to you.