THE JOURNAL
All photographs by Mr Jonathan Daniel Pryce
Style lessons from the peacocks at this January’s event in Florence, Italy.
It may be in Paris and Milan that all the biggest brands show their seasonal wares. But Pitti Uomo, the biannual men’s trade show in Florence, Italy, is where all the truly great street style happens. Something about the whole setup – a backdrop of incredible Renaissance architecture; a spattering of delicious Italian restaurants; an apparent lack of much to do aside from hang around in the street looking wonderful – simply lends itself to the whole affair. And the Pitti Peacocks – as we shall refer to the event’s stylish men from here forward – were particularly on their game this January, in MR PORTER’s humble opinion. Scroll down for tips from Florence’s finest on how to carry off a checked coat, wear beige in winter and – gasp – give the effect of not one, but two pocket squares.
THE COAT CHECK
If you’re the type of man who waits until he can’t feel his arms anymore before he invests in a proper winter coat, these two are likely to have you reaching for your wallet (if your numb fingers will allow you to do so). Dressed in slightly oversized check overcoats, they just look comfortable. At ease. And, more importantly – warm. Special mention also goes to the perfectly tailored wool trousers and that ankle-skimming scarf. We now know exactly what we’ll be wearing to work for the rest of winter.
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THE WARM AND FUZZY FEELING
This is hands down the cosiest-looking tailored outfit we have seen in a long time, thanks largely to the unstructured, chunky weave, double-breasted blazer upon which it is built. Almost cardigan-like in its thickness and slouch, this jacket has been perfectly paired with woollen accessories in light tones of grey and oatmeal. But to stop the whole thing becoming too washed out, the wearer has also deployed a starkly contrasting pair of dark navy trousers, with cuffs perfectly judged to rest just above his brown desert boots.
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THE SUIT GOALS
This man makes us feel rather anxious. However much we care about our appearance now, we were looking forward to a time when we could let loose a little – a time when we’d stop caring so much, and start wearing baggy, slightly ripped cords. This man, who is setting frighteningly high standards for gentlemanly dressing in one of the most resplendent Prince of Wales check suits we’ve ever seen, is a visual reminder that such a time need never come. If you’ll excuse us, we’re off to befriend some Italian tailors.
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THE LIGHT TOUCH
Seasoned as we are in all things style, we at MR PORTER didn’t know that “winter beige” was a bona fide “thing” until now. But here it is: a pair of off-white chinos worn with a double-breasted oatmeal overcoat – and it looks wonderful, even though it’s January. There are a lot of different layers and colours here (and even a Prince of Wales check), but it works because of the nonchalant slouch with which it is worn, mostly thanks to the pairing of two double-breasted pieces. The only thing we worry about is that he might be feeling a little cold – if you’re going to follow in his footsteps, we would suggest popping on a vest underneath the shirt.
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THE MAGICAL POCKET SQUARE
We’ve already raised the concept of the Pitti Peacock – that rare breed of extravagantly dressed male who comes out to show off at this particular style gathering. On first inspection, this chap is anything but ostentatious. He’s wearing a classic double-breasted, peak lapel blue jacket; a cutaway-collar chambray shirt; and some grey wool trousers. But look again and you will notice a rather flashy pocket square which, thanks to its two-tone edging, gives the trompe l’oeuil effect of having a little more stuffed down there than is customary. Now how’s that for plumage?
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