THE JOURNAL

Illustrated by Mr Calum Heath
If we had a penny for every time we took style tips from a Stanford business professor, we’d have two pennies. Which isn’t a lot of pennies, but it’s weird it happened twice, you know? Setting aside the various merits of corduroy tailoring, this latest advice comes to us by way of Dr Robert I Sutton, a professor of management science at the Stanford University School of Engineering, who recently predicted that, after a slew of high-profile crashes and burns for behemoth technology corporations, “strategic slowness” would emerge as the biggest business trend for 2024.
“So many fiascos fuelled by hurry sickness… will finally convince investors and leaders that they need to become more adept at hitting the brakes,” he explained in a LinkedIn response to the news presenter Ms Katie Couric. “Knowing when and how to slow down and fix things is the path to enduring financial success, to building healthy workplaces, and staying out of jail, too.”
Speed, it’s clear, can get us into trouble. And that’s just as true when it comes to making decisions about your wardrobe as it is about changing the name of a beloved social-media platform on an ego-driven whim. After all, who among us doesn’t have a wildly out-of-budget impulse purchase they’ve since lived to regret? We’re looking at you, neon puffer jacket.
If you’ve been lurking around these parts for a while, you’ll already know that the slow-fashion movement, a direct response to the rise of fast fashion over the last 30 years or so, is nothing new. In fact, you’re probably making a few sartorially sustainable decisions without necessarily knowing about it – opting for organic cotton T-shirts, for example, or choosing vegetable-dyed leather. And you only have to scroll through MR PORTER’s own Consciously Crafted edit to find a long list of brands that are already doing their bit to better the planet and its people, including those championing lower-impact materials, responsible craftsmanship and circularity.
“Fashion has felt so hectic with the amount of collections and shows and trends,” says Ms Harriet Vocking, CEO of Eco-Age, Ms Livia Firth’s sustainability consultancy and agency. “Slowness is about moving away from the overconsumption model with a throwaway mindset to a more considered approach where fashion is made to be loved and kept. Degrowth is a difficult topic for any business, but it is what brands need to consider when they are looking at their long-term business strategies.”
“I approach a new collection with the mindset that hopefully it will become a future classic, cherished by different generations”
For designers such as Mr Oliver Spencer – who recently launched his namesake brand’s Repurpose project to upcycle old garments, thereby extending the lifecycle of its pieces – that slowness is an innate part of its DNA.
“Although everyone calls it ‘slow fashion’ these days, we've always operated in that way,” Spencer says. “We’re not interested in conquering the world. We want to produce the best quality menswear we can, and with as little environmental and social impact as possible, hence the small, considered collections. We’re not fussed about trends, either – my design ethos is modern but timeless, so I approach a new collection with the mindset that hopefully it will become a future classic, cherished by different generations.”
Bennett Winch, a British brand specialising in timeless leather bags, shares a similar outlook, focusing on quality and longevity above all else. “We road test all of our products, often for over a year before they enter production,” says the brand’s cofounder, Mr Robin Winch. “It helps us iron out pain points that might occur from everyday use, and gets us to a position where we can deliver something we can lean on and say, ‘No matter what, that product won’t fail you’. And we back it up with a lifetime guarantee.”
This is where the strategic part of the equation comes in. Sure, sustainability is great and all, but have you ever tried a well-thought-out wardrobe that’s built to last? Strategic slowness is as self-serving as it is selfless. It’s about taking a more pragmatic approach to your wardrobe and curating it with purpose and passion.
None of this necessitates only buying so-called “classics” or exclusively stocking your wardrobe in shades of navy, grey or black, mind. Instead, it’s about truly embracing your own personal sense of style and finding what works for your own lifestyle, so that you buy less and consume the things you love free of guilt.
“We always tell people who are purchasing from us to take their time in making their decision”
The result is kinder on your wallet in the long run, a wardrobe that’ll work harder for you rather than one you bore of as soon as the next trend cycle hits – and yes, hopefully, a healthier planet.
And it’s simpler than it seems. Before splurging on a wardrobe purchase, pause and ask yourself a series of questions – will I love it in a year? How about five? Is it high-quality enough to last that long? When the time comes, could (and would) I have it repaired through services like MR PORTER’s FIT & FIX? Can I easily pair it with other things in my wardrobe? How many outfits can I build with it? How much will it “cost per wear”? When it reaches the end of its lifespan, can it be recycle or upcycled? Or could it be donated or resold on platforms such as MR PORTER RESELL?
All of this might seem like quite a lot of effort to put in when you’re eyeing up a shiny new pair of loafers. However, it’s a surefire way to train your sartorial impulses to exercise restraint as well as behave more mindfully about your wardrobe and what you want from it.
“First and foremost, you have to do you brand research,” Spencer says. “The adage ‘buy less, but buy better’ certainly applies.”
But seeking out versatility is his top tip, especially investing in relaxed tailoring. “It ticks off your smart looks but can also be styled to feel very casual, giving you more bang for your buck,” Spencer says.
“We always tell people who are purchasing from us to take their time in making their decision, whether it’s on style or colour or material,” Winch adds. “It’s something to deliberate on, but once you know it’s right, it’s a decision you won’t have to make again.”