THE JOURNAL
From left: LOEWE SS23. Photograph by Mr Carlo Scarpato/IMAXTREE.COM. Craig Green SS23. Photograph by IMAXTREE.COM. Kiko Kostadinov SS23. Photograph by IMAXTREE.COM. Collina Strada SS23. Photograph by IMAXTREE.COM. Reese Cooper® SS23. Photograph by Carlo Scarpato/IMAXTREE.COM
Over the past year or so, green has really been growing on us. From sage and leafy to lime and bright, the earthy colour has experienced something of a surge since the beginning of this new decade. It’s still holding strong, but the shades are getting decidedly murkier with time. And now here we are, at the inevitable moment when certain designers would like you to dress like you just stepped out of the swamp. Perhaps just as surprising is that the unofficial face of this moment, and the wider Gen Z-led cultural zeitgeist, is none other than that grumpy 2000s ogre, Shrek.
The biggest and greenest Scottish legend since Nessie, Shrek and his eponymous animated tale is still making its mark two decades on. Not only does the 2001 film have an iconic, bop-filled soundtrack, but the sarcastic tone coupled with a heart-warming beauty-norm-challenging fairy tale reflects the ironic humour and anti-perfectionism of today’s youth. It also reminds us that being our most authentic self is the way forward. (As Smash Mouth’s hit “All Star”, which features in the film, suggests, “only shooting stars break the mould”.)
“Shrek’s impact on culture along with the current popularity of Gorpcore, utilitarianism and wearing natural colours has led to what we will call a trend”
Shrek’s impact on culture along with the current popularity of Gorpcore, utilitarianism and wearing “natural” colours such as green and brown, has led to what we will call a “trend”. The rise of technical-wear in urban environments doesn’t seem to have been enough for adventure-seekers; now we’re wearing things that resemble nature. And with the rise of upcycled garments that have a more rustic and raw flair, Shrek-chic is set to be a big theme for spring and summer.
Several designers have incorporated a swampcore element in their collections for SS23; LOEWE presented moss-textured shoes, and grass growing out of coats. Craig Green opted for military greens head-to-toe with waterproof trousers and spikey soles, while Reese Cooper® added a profusion of pockets to technical pieces, as well as leafy knitwear.
Utilitarian king Mr Kiko Kostadinov showcased a collection of reversible pieces inspired by the Ottoman rule of his homeland Bulgaria. He introduced drawstrings to the suiting for a modifiable wear, with moss-like accents of ragged knitwear underneath and chunky tongueless sneakers in collaboration with ASICS.
“From his cosy sweater and brown boots to his overall unapologetic lifestyle and interior design, Shrek is a style icon and inspirational figure”
OG-earthling and sustainable brand Collina Strada has always used deadstock and biodegradable fabrics. Its collections routinely incorporate natural elements. Its SS23 collection included a selection of cargos and military pants, a tank top emblazoned with the word “broccoli”, a broccoli-shaped bag, and a dress with the slogan “Got milkweed?” on it.
For its AW23 collection presented in Milan earlier this month, JW Anderson showed a frog-shaped bag (a progression from the AW22 pigeon clutch) and frog shoes in collaboration with children’s rain-boots brand Wellipets. With these amphibian pieces, the designer made what was an abstract swamp theme quite literal.
It all circles back to Shrek. From his Kiko Kostadinov-like cosy sweater and brown boots to his overall unapologetic lifestyle and interior design, Shrek is a style icon and inspirational figure. No wonder Gen-Zers are clamouring to embrace imperfection and embed that vibe into their day-to-day style and dress. So, in the words of our favourite swamp dweller: “That’ll do, Donkey. That’ll do.”