THE JOURNAL
The world has changed. Clothes have changed – and been changed. And Pitti Uomo is no different. For more than 50 years, twice a year, Florence has played host to this illustrious fashion trade fair. And it has grown to become a temperature gauge for Italian menswear. But, historically, the real draw wasn’t always the wares exhibited, it was what attendees were wearing.
MR PORTER’s film from not even a decade ago goes some way to capture the spirit of the show in its pomp. Known as the Pitti Peacocks, visitors were more participants in a mass art performance, jostling for attention like birds of paradise in a Sir David Attenborough documentary. They became an attraction in themselves, decked out in their flamboyantly individual finery. And, in the post-Mad Men era of #menswear, this combative approach to trussed-up tailoring was turbo-charged.
That dandyism is still on display today. Only, as with wider dress codes, it has loosened. The centre cannot hold, and that individualism has spiralled out in too numerous directions. But rather than mere anarchy, what we’re left with is something far more interesting. Dramatic looks that are heightened – sure – but actually achievable. Not to mention inventive ideas that can be pulled into everyday life.
Below, nine strong looks from this summer’s showcase. Take from them what you will.
01. This just in
If the cap fits… Look, we don’t know if this gentleman keeps abreast of the goings on of Armidale, New South Wales, and it’s “hyper-local” news publication The New England Times, which seemingly went out of print in the mid-1990s, but has seen a rebirth in digital form and now features on his headgear. But this man has his ear to the ground when it comes to style. So, we like the micro-check jacket in a big way. But also the pink Oxford shirt, slightly crumpled but still neatly tucked into white jeans. And teamed with brown leather loafers. Does it work because it all goes together or because this guy is wearing it? More news on that as we get it.
02. Why the colour of money is brown
Listen to the wealth consultants behind Succession or just peruse The Row’s latest collection, and you could be forgiven for thinking that beige is the most spenny colour. Although our money is on brown over all those off-white neutral tones. Case in point, this guy’s pristine white knitted shirt isn’t top billing when it comes to the whole outfit. Sure, it draws the eye. But the brown suit, tinted sunglasses and fisherman’s sandals do the groundwork. And that brown is rich.
03. The right way to wear white
If this summer’s Pitti had a reoccurring theme – other than wearing caps and holding backpacks – it would be white. The neutral’s neutral, it’s a tone, or lack there of, that most of us can get on board with. But deftly deployed, and here layered with similar shades, in front of what looks like a giant Connect 4 board, it can take the lead. And where the aforementioned headgear, as well as the jeans, suggest how relaxed this menswear showcase has become, the double-breasted blazer feels like a nod to the OTT tailoring of past events. Only, left undone.
04. Make menswear metamodern
Another callback to Pitti heritage, this attendee wears a matching shirt and tie printed with what appear to be menswear details. Begging the question: which button to button? This confusion might explain how many remain undone. But the real paradigm shift is the use of said tie as a scarf. Combine slacks and contrast-tone wingtip shoes and you have all the tropes of classic menswear turned on their head. Only with reverence – and that’s the key.
05. The summer of football
Retro sportswear – and blokecore football gear, in particular – is living a resurgence as of late. And, this summer more than any other, that’s apparent across the spectrum, from fashion week runways to the streets of Florence. But throwing on a vintage football jersey you’ve owned for years isn’t enough to be the beau of the ball. How to do it right? Look to the 1970s, as this Pitti attendee has done, and opt for slightly flared trousers, ever so nostalgic retro soccer-inspired shoes to match and a baker boy cap that’s sure to do the (hat)trick.
06. Dress for the season you want
Here at MR PORTER, we’re advocates of dressing for the season we want, rather than for the one we have. So, whatever the weather, you, too, can pull off a sunny yellow suit. There are just a few small details to consider, to ground the look. A considered set of accessories that aren’t excessively summery (we’ll offer a pass for sunglasses) and that meet the level of formality of the rest of the outfit, such as a knitted tie and endlessly wearable loafers.
07. All things nature
To understand how we can best adapt – sartorially speaking – to soaring temperatures, turning to nature for inspiration always pays off. Whether it’s lightweight, breathable natural fibres, such as linen, or a wild print that’ll stand out against other layers, injecting some visual interest to an otherwise neutral fit. But don’t go totally feral – just make this stylish Pitti-goer, with his colour-coordination prowess, your spirit animal.
08. The power of monochrome
Back to the aforementioned shade (or lack thereof) that’s taken Pitti, and most fashion capitals, by storm. Here’s another way to wear white – with its polar opposite. It isn’t often that we’d suggest opting for black in summer, particularly in scorching hot Italian temperatures, but if we’re talking about a lightweight, embroidered jacket intended to give an otherwise simple look a more crafty, artisanal feel, then it’s high up in our style ranks.
09. V for vest – and versatility
Vests come in a vast array of colours, shapes and forms – and just as many styling possibilities. However, this Pitti attendee reveals what’s possibly the simplest way to take a look from good to great. A classic chino and T-shirt combination is given a fresh spin with a utilitarian gilet, complete with workwear-inspired pockets. Teamed with a pair of checkered Vans and accessories to match, it softens the fit while adding a touch of vibrant colour.
The people featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse MR PORTER or the products shown