THE JOURNAL

More and more, brands are choosing to communicate their identity as luxury labels via the medium of logos. If you’ve spent any time scrolling MR PORTER’s virtual shelves, you’ll know that there’s nothing especially wrong with that approach: a recognisable name or insignia, particularly one that carries weight and prestige, is just another way of trumpeting authenticity; that T-shirt or bag or sweatshirt is the real deal. You’ll already recognise if you’re the sort of man who goes in for that type of thing. And if the name Brunello Cucinelli has a particular heft to you, odds are it’s not quite your sartorial cup of tea.
For those brands that choose to tread a different path, then – brands like Brunello Cucinelli – it’s necessary in today’s landscape to signal their singularity through more subtler (and some might say more sophisticated) means. A commitment to effortless, understated design, the use of exclusively top-notch natural materials and, above all, a dedication to the world’s finest craftsmanship is how Brunello Cucinelli distinguishes itself and maintains its reign over a shrinking cohort of low-key luxury brands that don’t need to rely on typography to win over potential disciples.

In many ways, Brunello Cucinelli was the prototype or forerunner of this no-logo philosophy. Founded in 1978 by its namesake designer, the label’s first years were spent mastering the art of cashmere. In the 40 plus years since, it’s moved on from that “do one thing and do it very well” orthodoxy, though it remains steadfast to its tried-and-tested mantra of quality of quanitity.
That’s something that’s plain with the most recent collection which, to this day, is still all lovingly made in workshops at the designer’s picturesque Italian hamlet, Solomeo in Umbria. And, more specifically, our subject for today: the series of jackets in the line-up. There are just three (see, what did we tell you about quality over quantity?), but together they’ll cover every sartorial base that’s likely to arise over the next few months and take you seamlessly from winter through to the first signs of spring and beyond.

First up, a slick, streamlined take on a chore-field jacket, tailored from immaculate cotton-twill and fitted with an additional lightweight quilted liner for those days when one layer isn’t quite enough. If you’ve been hankering a more grown-up alternative to workwear, then this is where to look.
Then there’s the traditional bomber, imagined in the varsity vein, but in the place of felt, the Italian designer has wisely elevated the all-time classic in unblemished, butter-soft charcoal suede (we would challenge you to find a more refined interpretation this season).

And finally, for those who like their style on the sportier side, an olive-toned down jacket in silken, iridescent nylon – given its discreet profile, it’s precisely the sort of thing people advise keeping stowed in a backpack to throw on in case a chill sets in, but we don’t think you’ll be able to keep it hidden for too long.
Like everything Mr Cucinelli makes, all three share one thing in common: that less is still definitely more when it comes to good, lasting style. And on that, we’ll have to heartily agree.