THE JOURNAL
Mr Ralph Fiennes in A Bigger Splash, 2015. Photograph by Fox Searchlight Pictures/Photofest
Italian director Mr Luca Guadagnino is no stranger to the power of a statement shirt. Take the black and white “face print” number worn by the heartbroken Elio (played by Mr Timothée Chalamet) in the final scene of Call Me By Your Name. Or the Pepto-Bismol button-down that Chalamet wears playing a pink-haired cannibal in the director’s 2023 thriller Bones And All. In his own life, too, Guadagnino is a fan of an out-there chemise. The LOEWE shirt he wore to the 2022 Venice Film Festival, which was printed with the upside down face of Mr Bernardo Bertolucci positioned on his right shoulder, is a case in point.
Yet the loudest shirt of all in Guadagnino’s repertoire? That would be the one worn by Mr Ralph Fiennes in a dance sequence of A Bigger Splash. In the 2016 film, Fiennes plays Mr Harry Hawke, a 50-something big-shot music producer who interrupts the holiday his ex-girlfriend, the rockstar Marianne (played by Ms Tilda Swinton), is peacefully enjoying with her photographer boyfriend, Paul (played by Mr Matthias Schoenaerts) on the Sicilian island of Pantelleria.
On a mission to win Marianne back (“I’m not here for the capers,” he tells her), Harry doesn’t so much arrive as dive-bomb onto the scene. His booming voice and larger-than-life persona – seemingly evolved from decades of drug-use – is given a sidekick by way of Penelope (Ms Dakota Johnson), Harry’s recently discovered 22-year-old daughter, who everyone confuses as his protégé. “He really loves it,” she smiles.
“The carefree clash of motifs, stylised with a bare chest, feels fitting as he struts around with moves like Jagger, showing off his good-for-50 torso”
Such a cosmopolitan, subversively sexual character gets the look to match. For A Bigger Splash, Guadagnino collaborated with costume designer Ms Giulia Piersanti, who also worked with the director on Call Me By Your Name.
“In all my work, the costumes are extremely carefully considered,” said Guadagnino in The New York Times. “A man like that would have very precise taste… [He] would always pay attention to style whether at a coca party or at a recording,” he told WWD.
Whereas Marianne’s reformed rockstar wardrobe consists of smart shirt dresses designed by Mr Raf Simons, Harry’s look is of a music business hedonist who still considers himself in his prime. Balding, but thickly bearded, he wears a uniform of slip-on loafers, loose trousers by the Milanese tailor M.Bardelli and custom-made Charvet shirts buttoned down a little too low. “Because if you want to tell the story of that guy,” Guadagnino told Vogue, “He only wears, for sure, Charvet shirts.”
Mr Ralph Fiennes in A Bigger Splash, 2015. Photograph by Fox Searchlight Pictures/Photofest
For his dance sequence, Harry deviates from the Charvet, but the same outlandish spirit remains. Having initiated swimming races with Paul and convinced everyone to eat salt-baked fish, he plays the song “Emotional Rescue” by The Rolling Stones (who he used to work with) on the record player. Barefoot, Harry wears a white, green and grey geometric-print shirt by Lemaire, completely unbuttoned, with a pair of trunks whose green and pink pattern is a little like a peacock feather.
Carefree and summery on the one hand, the clash of motifs, stylised with a bare chest, feels fitting for Harry as he struts around with moves like Sir Mick Jagger, showing off his good-for-50 torso in an attempt to win Marianne back. “Is there nothing I can say, nothing I can do/To change your mind? I’m so in love with you,” go the lyrics.
The plot of A Bigger Splash is loosely based on Mr Jacques Deray’s 1969 psychosexual thriller La Piscine, starring Mr Maurice Ronet in the role of Harry and Mr Alain Delon as Paul. Deray’s Harry is similarly coded as full-on lounge lizard, wearing a wardrobe of tight white shirts, blingy watches, open shirts and cigarettes, and there is an almost identical scene where he peacocks by putting on a record for everyone to listen to.
Deray’s Paul meanwhile, is somewhat emasculated in his wardrobe, with flower prints, soft knitwear and green briefs (symbolising jealousy). In Guadagnino’s version, similar sartorial dynamics are in play. Paul, who watches on the sidelines as Harry dances, wears a himbo-inflected uniform of low-neck grey jersey T-shirts, reflective sunglasses and denim shorts.
“When he is not wearing Charvet or Lemaire, Harry is frequently depicted totally naked”
At the end of the sequence, Harry bursts outdoors and continues dancing on the patio, his energy seemingly too excessive to be contained by four walls. His jiving is broken up with a shot to his daughter, who is floating in the pool wearing a bikini and a pair of bright blue men’s boxer shorts. This is a likely reference to the colour of a shirt worn by Mr David Hockney in the 1973 documentary A Bigger Splash. As the title testifies, Guadagnino’s was heavily inspired by Hockney’s “swimming pool paintings”, their depiction of freedom, sensuality and queerness – the ejaculatory “splash” is an obvious innuendo.
When he is not wearing Charvet or Lemaire, Harry is frequently depicted totally naked: diving free-spiritedly into the pool and fighting with Paul in the violent, erotically charged denouement. Harry perhaps makes the biggest splash when not wearing a shirt at all.
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