It is a truth universally acknowledged that Nike revolutionised the sneakerverse when it released the first Air Max 34 years ago. But how? Let’s start with the basics. What is Nike Air technology? To use technical terminology, it’s a form of non-collapsible sneaker cushioning that houses pressurised air in a thermoplastic polyurethane bubble.

Developed by Nasa aeronautical engineer Mr Frank Rudy, the Air sole offers the wearer a springy foundation that’s able to bounce back into shape after each hop, step and jump. It also diminishes the chance of shock-related injury because it reduces the muscular energy it takes to move. Clever, right? Well, it is quasi-rocket science.

Nike debuted the Air Tailwind in 1979 and by the mid-1980s, everyone was walking on air. Air-soled shoes became ubiquitous in the form of the Air Pegasus, the Air Force 1 and Air Jordan 1 and they were worn everywhere from the court to the streets. But Nike was yet to push its technology to the max. Until 1987, that is.

The genesis of Air Max begins in Paris, at the Pompidou Centre. As you may well know, being the cultural gent that you are, the inside-out exterior of the landmark allows passers-by to appreciate the complexities of its architecture, a notion that inspired architect cum sneaker designer, Mr Tinker Hatfield.

Tasked with designing a sneaker that featured “maximum air” for a more efficacious cushioned sole, Mr Hatfield pondered the inner workings of the shoe. He felt the average consumer didn’t appreciate the science at play inside their soles. So, he thought to himself, why not show them? Soon after, the Air Max 1 was born.

Released on 26 March 1987, the Air Max 1 allowed sneakerheads to show off their sneaker’s technical kudos with the addition of an air “window” (Nike’s terminology, not ours). The kicks swiftly became highly coveted and it wasn’t long until the first-generation of hypebeasts were chomping at the bit for more.

The Air Max Light, released as the Air Max II in 1989, was the next needle mover, a sneaker that swapped out the polyurethane in the midsole for EVA foam, for a less weighty fit. The esteemed 1990s silhouettes followed, such as the Air Max 97 and Air Max Plus, each just as pivotal as the next. Ever since, the hype has endured.

Which neatly brings us on to today, Nike Air Max Day. Established in 2014, the event, which takes place on the Air Max 1’s original release date, honours the ever evolving Air technology by dropping new and retro Air Max models. Previous Air Max Days have brought us all kinds of weird and wonderful offerings, from the Air Max 97/1 Sean Wotherspoon to the Nike Air Max 97 Neon Seoul. And this year, we’re receiving more heat than ever.

To mark the auspicious occasion, we caught up with five crep aficionados, from editors and collectors to our very own sneaker buyer, to discuss their favourite Air Max silhouette of all time.

Mr Fabian Gorsler, sportswear editor of Highsnobiety, has a soft spot for the Air Max 97. “It just looks fast,” he says. Designed by Mr Christian Tesser, the model was the first to feature a visible full-length Air sole. Naturally, it was adopted by the savvy tastemakers of the late 1990s. “The Nike silhouette was huge in Europe, more so than the States,” says Mr Gorsler. “Italy, especially, adopted the sneaker on its streets, hence why it was quickly certified a sneaker icon over there.”

As for how to wear it, according to Mr Gorsler, the silhouette, which he “beats to death” (sneaker slang for wears ad infinitum), can be happily married with a pair of summer shorts. But that’s not all. He suggests the 97 also pairs well with a classic pair of jeans as the weighty yet streamlined kick “provides a good foundation to build on”. Really, it’s remarkably versatile, which is why Mr Gorsler suggests we should all continue copping the sneakers. His exact words are: “If you see a colourway you like, I suggest you grab it and rock it.”

“I’ve been told I have a very eclectic style,” says Mr Erick de Vera, co-founder of Instagram/little-bit-of-everything brand Gardens & Seeds. “I just like to rock things that I know and love the history of and then mash it up altogether. The Air Max 180 is certainly one of those things.” Released in 1991, the Air Max 180 is an unexpected wardrobe hero, a secret weapon of the sneaker-literate.

Mr de Vera puts this down to the silhouette’s idiosyncratic design, which was concocted by the brains behind the Air Force 1, Mr Bruce Kilgore and aforementioned legend Mr Hatfield. “I think the juxtaposition of the neoprene tongue, mesh upper and felt overlay is beautiful, and I love the shape of the toe box,” says Mr de Vera, who has been collecting pairs for more than 12 years. “My favourite part is the exposed air bubble unit. I love how the air bubble appears bonded with the translucent polyurethane outsole. You simply can’t go wrong with this classic.”

Sure, Mr Joss Long, MR PORTER’s in-house sneaker buyer, admires the “obscure, anatomical-inspired design” of Mr Sergio Lozano’s Air Max 95, but it’s the kicks’ checkered past and prominence in rebellious subcultures that make it his silhouette of choice. “My favourite sneaker statistic comes from a UK police report in the mid-2000s,” he says. “In an analysis of the most popular shoe prints left by delinquents at a crime scene, the Air Max 95 came in a close second. And although I don’t applaud illegal happenings, I do appreciate their perpetrators’ concern for style.”

Mr Long recalls his days as a stripling, dragging his parents across the sportswear stores in his home town, hunting for any Air Max 95 he could get his mitts on. “They were immensely ahead of their time,” he says. These days he’s a little fussier. Hence his fondness for the instantly sold-out Comme des Garçons Homme Plus x Nike Air Max 95, which debuted at the label’s SS20 show. “For me, it’s a bit of a when-two-worlds-collide moment,” says Mr Long. “The frayed shoe takes on a provocative narrative that really resonates with me. The shoe itself has so much character.”

For sneaker collectors such as Mr Michael Allen, aka @mikepairs, possessing a pair of Air Max 1s is cardinal, akin to a Catholic owning a Bible. The 1980s model is more than just a necessity in Mr Allen’s collection – it just so happens to be his favourite Air Max silhouette. “It’s an all-round fantastic silhouette because it’s comfortable, durable and goes with everything,” he says.

Mr Allen clearly has an affinity for colour (his Instagram and the fact he organises his kicks by hue is the first giveaway), but he hasn’t always lived his life in colour. On the contrary, Mr Allen was once a greyscale fiend, a pre-Oz Dorothy if you will. “The first pair of Air Max 1s I owned were a pair I designed myself on Nike ID that featured a grey nubuck upper and a black corduroy swoosh,” he says. Bit by bit, coveted colourways of the Air Max 1 and other sought-after shoes inspired him to inject vibrant shades into his style. “My favourite AM1 colourway has to be the Atmos Elephants, chiefly because I love how the teal swoosh pops against the black and elephant print.” The sneaker expert is referring to the 2007 Atmos Elephant x Nike collaboration, one of the most sought-after kicks of all time.

In 1998, the technologically advanced Air Max Plus trumped the Air Max 98 when it was espoused by emerging youth cultures. For millennial tastemaker Mr Jack Henderson, founder of menswear’s ultimate mood board, NCLGallery, his penchant for Mr Sean McDowell’s design started in childhood. “I attended a pretty rough school where you didn’t have to wear proper shoes, so everyone wore Air Max trainers,” he says. “Mine were all black because my mother refused to buy bright white sneakers for school.”

Mr Henderson notes his classmates desired the Plus silhouette in particular because “rumours circulated that they could make you jump higher and run faster”. This isn’t true, but they do offer maximum impact protection. These days, Mr Henderson prefers to sport the silhouette in the once-forbidden white colourway, a pair he insists is the perfect addition to any contemporary wardrobe. “I love that it’s a classic chunky sneaker with a greater longevity than any high-fashion kick,” he says.