The Stylish Gent’s Guide To Workwear

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The Stylish Gent’s Guide To Workwear

Words by Mr Ayrton Reeves

7 February 2021

After most of us becoming accustomed to working from the kitchen table in muftis for the best part of a year, it might seem ill-timed for us to start talking about workwear. But this isn’t the traditional starchy shirt and tie combo we’re on about, of course. It’s the sort of workwear once worn by rugged, salt-of-the-earth types – navvies, sailors, miners, steelworkers, lumberjacks and the like. And while in all likelihood, you’re probably not shifting railway sleepers or loading a ship’s cargo hold in the name of gainful employment, the apparel of such endeavours has merits worth noting.

Not only is it unashamedly rugged, but its robust construction and wealth of pockets gives it a practical edge. And perhaps it’s down to these advantages – and the fact our suits have been left hanging for so long – that men’s workwear has enjoyed a meteoric rise of late. With that in mind, we thought a helpful guide on how to wear it well would in fact be rather timely. You’re welcome, comrade.

01.

The chore jacket

Style historians generally agree that the chore jacket began life in 19th-century France on the backs of railway engineers and construction workers. Like the men who wore them, they were built to withstand the toil of sweated labour and accordingly were made from hard-wearing twill or moleskin, and dyed a rich blue to disguise superfluous dirt and grime. It was this distinctive hue that gave them the name “bleu de travail” – literally, “working blues” – from where we derive the phrase “blue-collar worker”. Sleeves were buttoned to allow easy rolling when it got a bit balmy, while large patch pockets kept tools of the trade close to hand.

As for how to wear it now, some of the more sartorially adventurous treat it as a dressed-down blazer, pairing it with a knitted tie and linen shirt or layering it over a folksy hand-knitted sweater. But if you favour a more low-key approach, consider staying true to the garment’s utilitarian roots. “These jackets were designed to move in, so try it a size bigger than you would in a blazer and roll the sleeves nonchalantly – add a crisp crewneck T-shirt and your favourite selvedge jeans and you’ve got a look that’s cool, confident and unfussy,” says Mr David Keyte, founder of Universal Works – a brand which has built a loyal following with its contemporary workwear.

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02.

The overshirt

The overshirt, a close cousin of the chore jacket, has origins of an equally practical nature and at first glance, they might appear to be one and the same. But there are some distinct differences. Chore jackets are an outer garment in their own right, so are made from heftier cloths. Overshirts on the other hand, while more robust than your everyday poplin and Oxford shirts, have a lighter construction than chore jackets and fill a void between a full-on jacket and an under layer. They also tend to have a greater variety and abundance of pockets, such as pleated bellow pockets, which were originally applied to Victorian army uniforms to provide storage for spare rounds.

Eventually, these capacious receptacles made the overshirt popular with early 20th-century artists, who wore them as overalls to protect their suits from stray paint – the pockets serving as a convenient brush holder. This melding of form and function makes overshirts as multifaceted as a white crew-neck tee – they layer well beneath a substantial wool coat or parka in the winter and likewise, make a harmonious partner to a Breton tee and chino shorts in warmer climes.

Alternatively, team a tartan version with a washed denim shirt and you’ll nail the woodsy Americana look with ease. “Whether you’re wearing one with a merino sweater and lightly padded jacket or a twill shirt and tee, the overshirt is a practical, year-round piece that requires minimal styling effort,” explains Mr Cathal Mcateer, founder of British workwear-nuanced label Folk.

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03.

The cargo trousers

Alongside many items in our wardrobes that we can’t imagine life without – the trench coat, bomber jacket and aviators to name a few – cargo trousers owe their existence to the armed forces. The granddaddy of the modern cargo trousers first made an appearance in the kits of British servicemen in 1938. These “combat trousers” were distinguished by their oversized pockets, designed to store bandages, maps and other necessities. Through the trickle-down nature of fashion, they found their way from the battlefield to Civvy Street via army surplus stores and the odd subcultural movement, becoming essential gear for outdoorsy types, from fisherman to hunters and mountaineers.

But how do you wear them today without looking like a 1990s boyband cosplayer or GI Joe caricature? Well to start, military-inspired pieces should be neutralised with items that aren’t from that world to avoid giving the impression you’ve just stepped off the frontline, so your best, ahem, allies here are basics. But you can put a fresh spin on the look by considering your fabrics, says Mr Roberto Compagno, CEO of Slowear, parent company of Incotex, which has been making cargo trousers since 1951.

“For the busy urban man who’s always on the move, a cool-touch technical style is ideal, while if you’re after a more refined look, you might go for a corduroy or flannel pair,” he says. And while the original blueprint design was pretty slack, if you’re not built like an SAS agent, you might want to consider a slightly more tailored fit. Pocket proportion is also key – look for neat, sensibly sized pockets that won’t become a saggy, misshapen mess when loaded with your effects.

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04.

The gilet

The precursor to the modern gilet was a sleeveless leather garment, worn by 15th-century soil-tilling peasants – its main benefit was to aid freedom of movement while keeping the wearer warm. Later, the garment climbed the social scale with courtiers and royalty – including King Henry VIII – sporting fancy, embellished iterations. Skip forward a few centuries and the gilet has been reborn as the de facto uniform of the modern mogul, from Silicon Valley tech bros to Fulham financiers. Its hybrid jacket-come-waistcoat design makes it ideal for between-the-seasons wear, when it’s a bit nippy to think about foregoing an outer layer, but too mild for a full on puffer.

“The gilet is the ultimate layering piece when it’s not mid-winter or mid-summer – or when you’re stuck at home and don’t want to put the heating on. Choose a close, comfortable fit and it will layer under most outerwear and when warmer weather arrives, it will replace your jacket”, says Mr Adam Cameron, co-founder of The Workers Club. Sporty, technical designs naturally pair well with sweats and sneakers, while a check woollen number will deliver a punch of pattern and texture to a simple tee and jeans combination. And don’t be afraid to experiment with colour – a bold flouro orange or yellow gilet will break up the monotony of a grey and navy wardrobe. Just remember the gilet is a statement in itself, so don’t go too jazzy with your layers.

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05.

The work boot

With the rise of the mass manufacturing in the 19th century, sturdy footwear was needed for industrial workers to avoid injury and the work boot – modelled on military clodhoppers – provided a solid solution. In the 1960s, it was a hit with factory workers and postmen. It later earned cult status after its adoption by punks and goths in the 1980s, with the style becoming synonymous with their anti-establishment ideals. The combination of comfort, durability and cult appeal has ensured the work boot’s status has never waned, with a proliferation of luxe hiking styles the latest take on the look more recently.

While you won’t be scaling Snowdonia in them (think of the scuffs), they’ll keep you well grounded whatever the state of the pavement. Their hard-hitting design makes them a fitting partner to workwear (a checked shirt, down gilet and fisherman beanie are solid companions), but pick a pair in a glossier leather and a neater toe shape and you can get away with wearing them with tailored chinos and a deconstructed blazer for a more unexpected mix that errs on the smarter side of the dress spectrum.

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