THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Calum Heath
We often speak of clothes as “investments”, but do we always treat them as such? Before fast fashion, clothing was appreciated as a craft on par with art, furniture or jewellery. People bought less, but better, and would mend, alter or pass on treasured items over the years. And today, because of a growing understanding of our eco footprint and an increased respect for makers, we’re looking to shape a more sustainable wardrobe once again. “The mindset is moving away from a disposable wardrobe towards understanding that investing isn’t just about the initial cost,” says Liza Canneford, the brand director at Mr P.
Layla Sargent, the founder and CEO of specialist care and repair service The Seam – which powers MR PORTER’s FIT & FIX service – has seen this shift in action. “We’ve seen a huge increase in demand as people's awareness of fashion’s environmental impact has grown,” she says. “It’s estimated that extending the life of a garment by just nine months can reduce its environmental impact by 20 to 30 per cent.”
Ensuring a long life for your clothes isn’t just about caring for them in their old age. “It’s so important to buy with the intent to wear for a long time,” Sargent says. “Invest in quality and look for pieces that fit your lifestyle, taking into consideration whether you’re willing to handwash wools or frequently clean light-coloured footwear.”
The golden rule when it comes to repairs? Take action quickly. “This is especially true for fabric damage, such as moth holes in knitwear, snagged materials, and torn seams,” Sargent says. “Wearing damaged items can lead to further material unravelling, leading to a more complex repair.”
Clothes can and should become cherished items that you create a relationship with. “Great clothes also improve with time,” Sargent says – but not without your help. We spoke to some industry experts about how they ensure their clothes survive the rough and tumble of life and come out looking better than ever.
01. Denim
“We cherish dry denim because it is a blank canvas upon which you can paint your story,” says Kevin Gelsi, the circular product manager at Nudie Jeans.
“Denim is perhaps one of the most grateful garments in that sense, where the wear, tear and care are allowed to become aesthetic attributes in a successively ever-changing item.”
His advice with jeans? “Wear them, wash them seldom and air them when you want a refreshing feel to them. When you do wash, avoid softeners for stretch denim and do not tumble dry. When they break, repair them and wear them a little longer, repeat several times. And when they are no longer wearable, return them to who you bought them from and have them take responsibility for the leftovers in a circular way.”
02. Suits
“The most important thing with suits, especially with bespoke suits, is to not dry-clean them too often,” says Sean Dixon, the co-founder and managing director of Richard James. “The chemicals can strip the life out of the fabric. Most Savile Row tailors will offer a ‘sponge and press’ service rather than a dry-clean. Find someone who can press the suit properly so that you retain that rich, full shape, especially around the lapels. Also, if you must dry-clean, make sure that you do the jacket and trousers at the same time so that they remain the same colour. Suits need to rest, so never wear your suit for more than two days in a row.”
Dixon also suggests investing in hangers that offer support around the shoulders. “Thin wire hangers destroy the delicate structure of the shoulder,” he says. “And remember: small holes from moths can be repaired with invisible mending.”
03. Knitwear
“The key thing is to seal your knits in airtight bags or boxes over the summer to avoid moths,” says Jenny Postle-Cope, the senior knitwear designer at Mr P. “If you do get moths, be extremely brutal – air-tight seal or freeze everything.”
“Give your garments a rest between wears,” says Tim Clark, technical manager at John Smedley. “After you’ve finished wearing them, the natural spring in the fibre should ensure that it snaps back into shape. A little clothes brush should be all you need to get rid of any surface dust or stains. For small stains, a little cold water should work. For anything stubborn, a little surgical spirit with cold water (around a 3:1 ratio) will make a friendly solvent that you can dab on with a bit of cloth or kitchen towel.”
When it comes to cashmere, Postle-Cope says that pilling is not a sign of poor quality. “It’s unavoidable with this fibre,” she says. “Look after your cashmere by getting a cashmere comb to de-bobble. You can buy specific cashmere soap, too, otherwise wash infrequently in cool water. Personally, I would hand wash – you will have more control and can avoid the dreaded shrinkage.”
And watch how you store your knitwear. “It might seem obvious but keep your knitwear folded not hung to avoid stretching,” Postle-Cope says.
04. Watches
“It is vital to get your watch serviced every four to five years by a professional who has been properly trained and accredited, and who uses accredited tools and original parts from the brand,” says Oliver Pollock, managing director at Luxury Watch Repairs. “It’s comparable to getting your car serviced. It’s fine to send it back to the manufacturer, but because of the sheer volume of watches they receive, it can take a long time.”
Luxury Watch Repairs is accredited by the likes of Breitling and Jaeger-LeCoultre and provides a two-year guarantee for any work it undertakes – look for similar in your service. “The movement in your watch is meticulous, and the parts need to be lubricated to keep it in peak condition and prevent any damage,” Pollock says. “If the oils dry out and one of the parts becomes damaged, this can have a knock-on effect on other components in the watch, which will make it more expensive to repair in the long run.”
Pollock also suggests investing in a watch winder, “which will help keep the watch on time and the movement in order”.
05. Shirts
“Consider the fibre composition and follow the care instructions on the label,” says Lauren Stevenson, senior garment technologist at Mr P. “Some fibres, such as cotton, linen and viscose, can shrink when washed at high temperatures and high spin settings. It’s best to wash on a cooler temperature and gentle cycle. And for formal shirts, make sure to remove any collar stays or cufflinks prior to washing.
“Using detergents with optical whiteners will help keep your whites bright, but will dull dark colours, so selecting the right detergent is key. Wash inside out to prevent the cloth rubbing against the drum and causing abrasion to surface.
“For ironing, take care not to over-press and cause glazing over the seams. It is best practise to iron from the inside. Iron collar and cuffs first, then unbutton and lay flat.
“Lastly, take care not to flatten the collar during storage. It’s best to hang shirts to avoid making creases when folded.”
06. Shoes
“Clean proactively,” Sargent says. “When you come back inside after walking in wet weather, wipe [your shoes] as soon as possible with a damp sponge or cloth. Removing surface dirt before it has a chance to dry on your footwear is the best way to minimise abrasion, especially on leather. Allow footwear to air-dry after becoming wet – never store until the leather has completely dried. Stuff leather shoes with acid-free tissue paper before stowing away for their off-season.”
When it comes to sneakers, “one of the most common repairs we undertake is an interior heel repair, when the back of the heel has torn or ripped away from the outer,” Sargent says. To avoid this, “use a shoehorn, or be careful to properly unlace your footwear before you put them on,” she suggests.
“Also, consider getting sole protectors. If you have invested in a quality pair of shoes, sole protectors on the bases provide an added layer of durability.”
07. Bags
“Leather must be treated carefully to avoid distorting the texture or cracking the finish,” Sargent says. “Take care with vegetable-tanned leather as it is very absorbent, so ensure your hands are free of oils and moisturises when handling.
“It’s a great idea to get a professional bag clean once a year – for high-use bags,” she adds.“Fix scuffs with a leather restoration service to erase the appearance of scuffs, stains and water damage.”