THE JOURNAL

Street style in Paris, June 2016. Photograph by Mr Jonathan Daniel Pryce
Brits have eccentricity and Italians have peacockery, but what about the French? You could cite Breton tops and navy trousers, but beyond lazy stereotyping, what is it that makes characteristic French, or Parisian, style? “The fact that he really doesn’t look like an Italian man, a British one or an American,” says Ms Ines de La Fressange, author of The Parisian Field Guide To Men’s Style. A vague answer perhaps, but Ms La Fressange is right. Parisian style is defined more by what it isn’t than what it is, which is why it’s so hard to pin down and to emulate.

Still, channelling Le Parisien (the style, not the ham baguette) through your wardrobe – and your attitude – is possible, according to Ms La Fressange. No one characterises or understands Parisian style better than she does. By turns a celebrated model, aristocrat, fashion designer and icon known for her quintessentially French style, she is Paris personified, so we thought we’d ask her exactly how we non-Parisians can be more so, and have distilled her advice into the points below. Bon courage!

Keep it understated

Photograph by Mr Daniel Bruno Grandi
“The Parisian man doesn’t want to show off, doesn’t want to be noticed even, or at least not at first sight,” says Ms La Fressange. “Young or older, the Parisian man wants to have his own style, but never with a very expensive watch, a coloured tie, unusual colours or exaggerated collars.” This, you may have already guessed, is why the French are so fond of navy. So avoid shouty logos and ostentatious colours, and stick to a fine pair of navy trousers and a white shirt. And next time somebody compliments you on your outfit, just smile and nod. Or better yet, make like a Parisian would. “He would tell them that he bought what he’s wearing years ago, as if he would never go shopping and has no interest in clothes,” says Ms La Fressange. Nobody likes a show off.

Mix the high and low

Photograph by Mr Daniel Bruno Grandi
Looking like you’ve thrown an outfit together, even if it was meticulously chosen, is something Parisians know how to do particularly well. “Parisian men find clothes and accessories in many different places or countries,” says Ms La Fressange. “We would never have a ‘total look’ from one brand, except of course if it’s a suit, and can easily mix something from the high street with something else that is far more luxurious.” Wearing inexpensive things alongside some of your biggest sartorial investments may seem incongruous, but it’s exactly how one achieves that “oh, this old thing?” look. “For instance,” says Ms La Fressange, “a Parisian can have a tailored suit, but wear it with a plastic watch, a cashmere sweater, but with jeans, a vintage coat but with very fine shoes."

Wear it in

Photograph by Mr Daniel Bruno Grandi
The golden rule of channelling Parisian cool is not looking like you’re trying to do so. In other words, nonchalance is essential. “If a man wants to look wealthy and powerful, he will only look ridiculous,” says Ms La Fressange. “What I like most is that Parisian men give the impression that they made no effort. They’re not self-conscious. What is important is charm, culture, intelligence and attitude.” In that sense, it’s not about the clothes at all, but about how you wear them, or perhaps how long you've been wearing them. “All Parisians have something they particularly love,” says Ms de la Fressange. “Whether it's a special shirt, or an old cosy sweater, or a vintage belt, they consider them treasures even if you think it's just a rotten old thing.” Her advice is to invest in timeless clothing and accessories that will keep for many years – a blouson jacket from Parisian brand Berluti, perhaps, or a pair of suede loafers from J.M. Weston.

A word on berets
The beret may be quintessentially French, says Ms La Fressange, but it is more suited to shepherds in the French Resistance during WWII and has “no business adorning the head of any cool, stylish Parisian man today. Parisian girls, on the other hand, can wear a beret any way they like.” We don’t make the rules.