The advent of autumn may signal the end of summer conviviality, but it comes with its own particular delights – the crunch of cinnamon-shaded leaves underfoot, the tang of cordite and cosy evenings by the fire. But, while these are all well and good, the real appeal lies in a return to a more structured wardrobe, when the breezy shirts of August are packed away in favour of something more substantial.

Even if your office is now in your living room, the autumn blazer signals a kind of back-to-school formality, but it’s light enough to work fluidly with the transitional weather before a winter coat becomes a necessity. (If it has remained particularly warm where you are – lucky you – you’ll probably want to read our guide to wearing a summer blazer instead.)

If summer is silly season, the autumn months see a shift to grown-up sophistication – and the blazer should be your go-to garment. But how to get it right?

A blazer in light suede or cotton, perhaps in a half-canvas to allow a certain degree of breathability, is a wise investment for autumn. It acts as an everyday throw-on and cover-up, but isn’t overly cumbersome. Opt for one with a softer structure and wear it with knits or jersey sweaters with a loose-fitting shirt underneath for a relaxed, athletic look. A blazer with the stuffing taken out, if you will.

Shop unstructured blazers here

The rollneck, once the preserve of dad golfers, has become a cult item among the well-heeled, and, when worn with a blazer, a viable option for the evening, too. A lightweight, slim-fit wool number will look devilishly Mad Men-esque, with a narrowly cut blazer, either in wool for daytime or in lustrous jacquard for after-dark elegance. A brown checked blazer in particular may sound tricky to wear – it can land itself in drab, geology-teacher territory pretty quickly – but thanks to new sharper cuts and modified proportions, the throwback style suddenly feels fresh again. The Milk Tray Man never looked so sharp.

Shop rollnecks here

Think beyond navy and experiment with colour. We’re not advocating game-show-host brights here, but a blazer in a rich hue, worn with accoutrements in a complementary shade, looks dashing and considered. Try a fawn jacket with a light shirt, for example, or a burgundy blazer with a brown shirt and raspberry tie. Dial down the accessories, such as pocket squares and tie pins, so the subtle tones do the work.

Shop colourful blazers here

A preppy sports jacket will add a touch of vim and vitality to your outfit. It is generally made from a less traditional fabric, such as pliable jersey or rustic corduroy. (Speaking of which, the so-called grandpa blazer has been trending for a while now.) This kind of blazer employs certain touches, such as patch pockets or a basketweave knit, which immediately signal a more informal stance, especially when layered with contrasting textures. Keep it casual with chinos or, if you’re a man who favours comfort, sweatpants.

Shop corduroy blazers here

Lesson one from the Pitti peacocks (that rare breed who shake their sartorial tail feathers for the cameras in the biannual menswear showcase Pitti Uomo): invest in a gilet. Brands such as Brunello Cucinelli have long championed the teaming of a blazer and a gilet. It denotes a certain sportiness and masculinity while at the same time looking polished. A solid fabric such as tweed or herringbone will complement the outerwear aesthetic.

Shop gilets here

Denim’s elevation from its rustic workwear roots is well charted, but it’s becoming increasingly acceptable as formal attire, too. Wearing denim with a blazer is a happy marriage of smart and casual, the one counter-balancing the other, while a neat blazer in a dark-indigo selvedge denim is a durable solution for inclement weather.

The navy blazer in particular is versatile enough as to demand a place in every man’s wardrobe, and has been a staple for everyone from Messrs Harrison Ford to Serge Gainsbourg over the years. You can check out MR PORTER’s video guide on wearing a navy blazer here, too.

Shop navy blazers here

A blazer in a neutral shade will provide the perfect ally for vivid colour. Contrast a blast of coral or high-impact cobalt with a blazer in a more nuanced shade to temper its full force. A solid block of colour as part of a casual look can sometimes appear rather sophomoric; adding a blazer will lend some much needed structure and formality to keep things grown-up. As a general rule of thumb, camel shades work well with oranges, pinks and greens while navy and inky shades look on point with darker burgundies or regal reds.

Shop neutral blazers here

Every man should own a classic navy-blue double-breasted blazer. From parliament to Hollywood, Savile Row to the Sunset Strip, it denotes formality and exudes a handsome, timeless refinement. Double-breasted jackets tend to have a more traditional cut, so keep everything fitted and sharp to counteract that excess fabric. Strong shoulders, a nipped-in waist and a peak lapel will look suitably patrician.

Shop double-breasted blazers here

The people featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse MR PORTER or the products shown