THE JOURNAL

From left: Will Rogers and Sophia Brown. Photograph by Mariola Zoladz Photography. Dalad Kambhu and Geoffrey Grunfield. Photograph by Vincen Akina. Elliott Power and Clio Peppiatt. Photograph by Joseph Barrett and Yolanda Mitchell
For men, wedding-day style has more clauses than a Hollywood prenup. What a groom wears depends on the season, the venue, the bride (if there is one), as well as the direction the trend winds are blowing. There are also common mistakes that men make when they’re sizing up what is, arguably, the most important outfit they’ll ever wear.
So, dearly beloved, we are gathered here today to make sure that, 20 years from now, as you look back at your wedding photos, you’re not thinking “Yikes” when you see the suit you wore.
The choices are certainly broader than ever. We’re in an expressive, experimental period for tailoring, where men are enjoying wavy fits and non-traditional styling. But let’s remember that walking the aisle is very different to walking a red carpet or a designer runway. You want to look good, not “interesting”.
Trends, by their very nature, are the opposite of happily ever after. Fifteen years ago, a trendy suit might have been a skinny-fit grounds for divorce. Ten years ago, you may have been tempted to style your suit with a pair of luxury sneakers.
Today, tailoring trends are looser: 1970s and 1980s references styled with anything from sheer tops to lapel brooches to velvet bucket hats. They look great right now, but tastes will move again, which is why most experts advise you to go classic with a wedding suit.
“The rule is just steering clear of anything too drastic in one direction or the other,” says the style consultant and tailoring expert Luke Hodges. “Everyone wants to look their absolute best on their wedding day, but rather than going for something different and edgy, just make each component – the suit, the shirt, the shoes – the best you can possibly make it with your budget.”
“Your personality should shine through on your big day”
For Hodges, that means a Goldilocks fit – not too slim, not too loose. The jacket should sit clean on the shoulders and not be too short. The trousers should sit on your waist, not your hips, and elegantly skim rather than cling to the legs.
“Good tailoring shouldn’t hug the body,” Hodges says. “You want a little bit of room for movement. But you also don’t want to be billowing. There shouldn’t be too much material.”
There are some simple rules for getting the jacket proportions right. According to Hodges, the hem should just about cover your bum and sit in line with the middle of your palms when your arms are by your side. If you fold your fingers back up, you should just be able to touch the edge of your sleeves.
For anyone tempted to wear something modern with a generous fit, Hodges recommends keeping the rest of your look simple. “If you do want to go with something a little oversized, keep the colours and the materials neutral and natural. And don’t go over the top with your accessories.”
Another way to think about it is in terms of a classic dinner suit in the style of Bond or Bogart. Those proportions will never look wrong – and a tuxedo is more than appropriate for a wedding, especially if it’s a lavish affair, according to the renowned British designer Oliver Spencer.
“I am a firm believer in a peak lapel, one-button dinner jacket to elevate your big day, complete with a cummerbund and bow tie,” Spencer says. “And the bow tie should be wide – don’t wear a mean bow tie.”
“Just make each component the best you can possibly make it with your budget”
Traditional dinner suits look best in black or midnight blue, but you could go the full Bogie with an ivory-coloured jacket. Just clear that with your betrothed, especially if they’re wearing white.
Spencer says that dinner suits don’t have to be restrictive, either. “You could be more daring with a double-breasted tuxedo jacket and a wider-leg trouser,” he says. “My preference would be a cream dinner shirt or if you would like to go a bit more ‘funky’, a pink frilled dinner shirt is perfect for the occasion.”
There is another way to go. One trend we’ve seen in recent years is less-formal weddings as couples look to save money or plan a day that vibes with a casual lifestyle. For those weddings, Hodges recommends a different kind of suit.
“If stuffy isn’t your thing, there are alternatives,” he says. “There are some lovely linen suits out there, which are great for summer weddings. It’s absolutely fine to go for those, but keep the same rules and proportions in your head. Don’t just wear any old suit just because you want to shun the more classic tailoring.”
Hodges recommends a pristine pair of loafers with a linen suit to bring the look together (Oxfords are the go-to shoe for anything more formal). But he says that, whatever style of suit you end up choosing, some of the finer points can be down to personal preference.
“With the trouser break, the buttons, the collar style, those are personal choices. The same goes for your shirt cuffs. If you want to have a bit of fun with a cocktail cuff, then go for it. It’s easy to get bogged down in those finer details.”
Spencer agrees that on your wedding day, the biggest factor is you. “Your personality should shine through on your big day,” he says. “It is important that you should be at your sartorial best, but to also be and feel very comfortable in what you are wearing.”