THE JOURNAL

3 MINUTE READ
Five Rugged And Robust Derby Shoes For Winter
Words by Colin Crummy
Photography by Mr Liam Warwick
Styling by Ms Sophie Watson
4 November 2020

A handsome, easy-going shoe, the Derby is characterised by a considerable sole and open lacing that separates it from the dressier, more delicate Oxford shoe. Eminently sensible for the colder months, it’s a shoe that started its life as the preserve of gentlemen going about gentlemanly outdoor pursuits, hence the ruggedness. Little has changed over the years, but a tinker here and there to sole height, colour and material all add extra oomph. After all, the real draw here is its permanence. Here are five of the best to sink your feet into this winter.

01.
The old-school Dr. Martens
Characteristically robust with that extra edge only Dr. Martens can magic up, these 1461 Leather Derby shoes are a classic of the genre. Still made in the brand’s Cobbs Lane factory and set on its signature air-cushioned soles, these reek of schooldays nostalgia. Also, as your mum would say, they’re nice and sensible for when it rains, which it will.

02.
The chunky directional Derby
If you like your footwear with a wedge of drama, then AMI’s Derby shoes are just the ticket. They’re made from smooth leather, lace-up smartly at the front with neat apron-stitching and the chunky rubber soles go all Toblerone shaped on your feet. Yummy yummy, as you should never really say about shoes or food or anything, for that matter.

03.
The polished leather Derby
Positioned as the rugged relation of the high-tone Oxford shoe, Derbies are a great everyday wardrobe option. But they can also be super smart. And here’s the proof. These shoes from Church’s, made from handcrafted leather in Northampton, England, have artisanal touches including half-moon stitching and a polished binder finish, resulting in an elegant, boardroom-safe look.

04.
The supple nubuck shoe
The Derby hasn’t changed too significantly since its first incarnations. The colour template is similarly traditional, adhering to black or brown leather and sometimes suede. But mild deviations produce strikingly handsome results, such as these Grenson Derbies in supple, silky nubuck – the cigar-like hue sets the tone to relaxed.

05.
The smart-casual burnished Derby
While much is made of the Derby’s dependency, it is also a remarkably versatile shoe. Officine Creative’s pair wouldn’t look out of place with chinos or denim or with a suit should you be heading into the office (remember that place? The big building with all the desks and chairs?). With a hefty rubber lug sole and dark-brown burnished leather uppers, these will prove trusty companions whatever else you’re wearing this winter.