THE JOURNAL

Over the past couple of decades, Pitti Uomo, the menswear trade show held twice yearly in Florence, has built a reputation for attracting some of the best-dressed men in the industry. For a while, that meant three-piece suits, some questionable (in retrospect) felt fedoras and rows of men peacocking for the street style cameras. But the vibe has mellowed in recent years. And now, we’re happy to say, the style has become inspiring again. From gorgeous coats to excellent caps, these guys brought the goods. See below for our pick of the best-dressed men at this season’s Pitti.
01. A clever cardigan (or knit wit)

A reminder of the shift in men’s wardrobes – the clothes inside them rather than the items of furniture themselves – over the past decade. As mentioned above, the brouhaha at this buzzy biannual was once all about flashy suiting and flashier gelato. And while the ice cream is still a fixture (in the summer, certainly), these days, a man can wander in wearing a cardigan and steal the show. But then it is quite the cardie, teamed with a patterned chore jacket worn underneath, along with a waffle knit for further insulation – this is a man of many layers. The chinos and boat shoes, meanwhile, pull out the colours of the knitwear’s motif. Another secret: hands neatly tucked behind your back not only improves the posture, but can proffer a laid-back, thoughtful air. Even if you are actually covertly playing with a fidget spinner.
02. As ever, it’s all in the details

Historically, Pitti is pocket square and neckerchief territory, so every man in attendance will be sure to have balanced his look down to the last button. And the subtle pops of interest from the gold fastenings on this fellow’s maritime jacket – along with his striped socks, the leather detailing on his bag and oversized parka and just slightly eccentric accessories – are exactly what we’re talking about. These accents set off a complementary palette of classic workwear and army surplus hues, layered for yet more textural interest. And can we have a moment for the perfectly groomed moustache and stubble?
03. How to standout from the crowd

Amid a sea of collared shirts, buttoned cuffs and patterned ties, this attendee stood out as a bastion of casual comfort. It’s winter, after all, and this astute dresser knows that it pays to take a practical approach when building an outfit. And this attire is a toasty affair, with a black hoodie layered under a vibrant red fleece half-zip jacket that’s sure to shake off any January blues. The outfit retains some formality, too, thanks to the pleated grey trousers and patent leather Prada cross-body bag. If smart-casual is a term that still holds any weight, consider this outfit as the new definition.
04. The camel supremacy

One thing that’s guaranteed to make us smile is a well-curated colour palette. And this gentleman has gracefully succeeded, capturing a warm-toned neutral theme – from his glasses to his shoes – while also swerving being boring. And that’s all thanks to his use of different patterns and textures. See the printed silk scarf, the sweater with the suede jacket, the wool trousers, his textured leather boots and checked coat. All the pieces bring something different while also existing harmoniously. Chef’s kiss.
05. The split suit

While a full suit very rarely goes amiss, we’ve been really into the idea of split-suiting, ie, wearing two mismatched pieces of tailoring. It works when you only employ one piece (a blazer with jeans, say), but this gentleman proves that it also works with a bit of a Frankenstein approach. Neutral shades won’t steer you wrong: these grey pleated trousers and brown semi-brogue Oxfords work a treat with the classic cut-away collared shirt and even the contrasting patterns from the puppytooth jacket and diamond-woven tie. But, really, it all works because of the nonchalant, yet thought-out way in which it is all styled. Look closely, and you’ll even notice bright-red braces to (quite literally) hold the look together.
06. Long live chocolate brown

The colour of Succession and stealth wealth or however you like to think of it, deep velvety browns continue to excite us in 2024. A full wool suit plus an unlined wool coat plus a sweater vest (we assume) with brown accents and a brown cap might sound, on paper, like too much brown. However, IRL it works very well and results in an incredibly cohesive head to toe look. The sneakers and aforementioned hat help to bring this outfit down to earth – fashion isn’t so serious, after all.
07. Italianate workwear

We’ve long held the notion that there is much to admire about the way Italian men dress. And while we can’t say for sure that this man hails from the Boot, his floppy hair and particular sense of style tend to make us think he must. Just look at the layering finesse here. At base we have beautiful wool trousers and simple tassel loafer – do we spot a white tee? Then a classic denim jacket followed by a beige chore coat. The neckerchief and scarf stuffed casually in the pocket are simply the cherries on top.