THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Mr Timba Smits
Things have moved on since 1964, when Sir Hardy Amies penned ABC Of Men’s Fashion, in which he decreed that we should “never wear shorts except on the beach or on a walking tour”. Hell, even Mr Tom Ford’s proclamation that “a man should never wear shorts in the city” sounds like the ravings of King Cnut these days. (Cnut was at least taking in some sea air at the time, so no shade from Sir Hardy if he was wearing shorts.) But can a grown man, even today, get away with a hem that sits above the knee in a formal setting? We can’t all be Mr Pedro Pascal at the Met Gala, after all. However, as style rules dissolve, perhaps it is finally time to free our legs from the tyranny of smart trousers. Two writers make their case.
01. The argument for shorts with a suit
By Mr Rodney Uhler, a New York-based writer
We are in the midst of total and complete leg liberation. We are eschewing our skinny jeans for wide-leg chinos that would have been inconceivable 10 years ago – and we are happier because of it. Over the past few years, shorter casual shorts like those seen on Normal People’s Mr Paul Mescal have come to be worn on, well, normal people. Formal shorts may be the last bastion of the calf freedom fight, but many wars have been won in the critical final hours. And so we, and our well-ventilated legs, must stand strong.
As with any cultural revolution, we need to recognise the forefathers of the movement. And there are no two greater early adopters in expanding our evening wear horizons (or hem lengths) than Messrs Pharrell Williams and Thom Browne. At the 2014 Academy Awards, Williams appeared on the world’s most famous red carpet outfitted in a Lanvin tuxedo jacket and matching shorts. It would be foolish for mere mortals to compare themselves to the Louis Vuitton creative director and his eerily ageless skin, but time and time again he has proven to be a predictor of trends that will go on to benefit the more common man.
“Even traditionalists will agree that people look their best when they are comfortable and confident”
Since 2003, Thom Browne has been realigning our expectations of what a modern suit should look like. While his tastes range from traditional pants to pleated skirts, shorts have long played their part. These are shorts cut from the same cloth and with the same expert tailoring as the jackets worn alongside them. As his influence has grown from the West Village to the NBA hallways, so has the understanding that shorts are not just for fun and games but for business and boardrooms, too.
What these men knew, and what countless current collections are proving, is that the best-dressed men are those who do not feel restrained. Is the man sweating through his trousers at a summer wedding more appropriate than the guest who is more comfortable, and cooler, in his tailored shorts? Should a man who is insecure about his body but most confident about his legs not be given an opportunity to shine at work?
Even traditionalists will agree that people look their best when they are comfortable and confident. For some, that means being in shorts. Formal shorts are no longer a tool exclusively for dandy daredevils like Williams. They’re now readily available at a variety of price points and in fabrics such as wool, linen and silk that have always been aligned with formalwear.
This rebellion is not radical. But we are finally freed from the shackles of the slack. Those clinging to the antiquated dress codes should feel like the ones who have something to prove. And if you’re preparing for the sartorial battlefield, wouldn’t you feel more comfortable in a pair of shorts?

02. The case against formal shorts
By Ms Lili Göksenin, Senior Editor
I have always felt strongly about the following adage: you must know the rules to break the rules. And I’m sorry, men, but you simply – as a whole – have not yet learned the rules of suiting well enough to break them.
The number of unbroken vents I see on jackets every day should be the only piece of evidence required to say that most men are not ready for short suits. Shoulders that are too big or too small, collars that gape, second buttons buttoned, pooling trousers, too-short sleeves, too-long sleeves – there is a need for a global lesson in wearing suits because too many of you are getting it wrong.
I’m not chastising or shaming – it is hard to find tailoring off the rack that fits perfectly. And it’s simply no longer part of our culture to get our clothing tailored, even though it should be. But a suit that fits well is armour and a uniform and an aphrodisiac all wrapped into one package. But I would say that I see – at best – 30 per cent of people wearing well-fitting suits every day. We must learn the rules before we break the rules, people, and if you can’t find a suit that fits you, then you can’t wear shorts with a suit.
“If you can’t find a suit that fits you, then you can’t wear shorts with a suit”
I’m not so very churlish that I can’t appreciate that there are certain men that pull formal shorts off with aplomb. Mr Lee Pace is a perfect (and I mean perfect) example of a man who can wear a Thom Browne short suit like it’s the most natural thing in the world. But it takes quite a lot of gusto to do it well and I’m just not sure that most normies have got the guts.
I suppose if you’re even considering it, then perhaps you have the style chops it takes. Are you ready for the stares? Are you ready for the comments? If the answer is yes, then please, give it a whirl. If the answer is no, you shouldn’t wear formal shorts.
Finally – and I say this as a woman who has been reluctantly shaving/waxing/moisturising her legs for decades – it takes some effort to have gams that are well-groomed enough to show off to the world. It’s one thing to pull on a bathing suit or go for a walk in some summer shorts. But if you’re wearing formal shorts, that means you’re at a formal occasion. Are your legs ready for such an event? Have you considered trimming or at least taming your leg hair? How are your knees? Are they well moisturised?
I suppose, now that I’ve written all these words, I’m not sure if my issue is that men shouldn’t wear formal shorts. It’s that I’m not convinced (most) men are ready for formal shorts. So, please, hold tight for now. I’ll let you know when you’re good to go.