THE JOURNAL
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A solid collection of shirts is the cornerstone of any decent wardrobe. Menswear has skewed extra-casual over the past decade, but the shirt has survived – not only as the foundation of any formal dress code, but also as a reliable staple that’s easy to wear in any number of contexts across the smart-casual spectrum. Layered under a sweater, over a T-shirt or worn with a suit, there’s perhaps no item that you’ll get more mileage out of. Of course, they come in all stripes. Here, the definitive list of the six shirt types that every man should own.
01. The button-down shirt
A button-down is what you can confidently call an unassailable menswear classic without sounding like you spend all your time on the malefashionadvice subreddit (hey, no judgement here). Which is why it’s at the top of this list. Originating as a solution for polo players whose collars flapped in the wind, it’s become something of a sartorial main character that you can layer under a blazer to a meeting, or style it untucked with chinos or denim on the weekend. White and sky blue are the easiest go-tos in terms of colour, and will realistically yield the most wear, and while they come in all kinds of fabrics, an Oxford cloth button-down – known as the OCBD among menswear nerds, ahem – is arguably the most classic and versatile.
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02. The striped shirt
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Striped shirts inject some personality into an outfit without being overwhelming, making them an easy way to experiment with pattern and colour. Vertical stripes also create a visual elongation, making you look the tiniest bit taller. Look for narrow pinstripes for a refined office-appropriate look, or bold, wider stripes (sometimes known as butcher’s stripes because they recall the stripes used on a butcher’s apron) to add more flair to a get-up.
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03. The flannel shirt
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Despite its broad-ranging associations – from lumberjacks to 1990s grunge and 2010s hipsters – the flannel shirt is singular in its ability to add a rugged cool to your off-duty looks. In fact, a flannel shirt can be one of the most reliable pieces in your wardrobe, especially in the cooler months. Japanese brands are particularly good at making them: look to Beams Plus for some great flannels that blend that vintage American-workwear vibe with some contemporary polish. Or try Cherry Los Angeles’ modern take. Styling-wise, they often look best when worn unbuttoned over a casual tee as an overshirt, and with equally rugged trousers, such as blue denim jeans or cargo pants.
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04. The poplin shirt
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Crisp, lightweight and polished, a poplin shirt shines best when the occasion calls for some formality. Think weddings, interviews or any given occasion where you need to look like you’ve really made an effort. A white or pale-blue poplin is your safest bet, but don’t underestimate the power of darker shades or subtle patterns for evening wear. Poplin’s smooth finish makes it perfect for layering under a suit, but it’ll still hold the same sharpness when worn on its own. Be sure to keep the rest of your outfit relatively formal – think a pair of roomy tailored gabardine trousers, or a tie if you’re really out to impress.
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05. The linen shirt
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If you’re about to embark on some winter sun, dressing well in warm weather after battling the elements these past few months can feel jarring. A cool linen shirt, however, is something you can look forward to switching your favourite knitwear for. Pair it with tailored shorts, linen trousers, or swim trunks – it’s difficult to go wrong. Lightweight, breathable and still elegant after being crumpled in your hand luggage, a linen shirt will look the part whether you’re on a Mediterranean terrace or spending a day at sea. The Italians make some of the best ones (of course they do) – look to ZEGNA, Etro and Lardini for some reliable examples.
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06. The chambray shirt
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Denim’s softer cousin, the chambray shirt can be a real wardrobe workhorse. Carrying the rugged charm of denim without the heft, it’s versatile enough to be worn under a winter sweater when it’s colder (the textures look great together), but will work just as well on its own. Officine Générale is a reliable go-to for chambray – the French brand makes its styles using Lyocell, which is extra-lightweight. One more styling tip: if you’re feeling adventurous and want to channel your inner cowboy, a chambray shirt looks great when paired with a bandana tied around your neck. Yeehaw, etc.
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