THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Mr Bruno Mangyoko
Everyone loves a good wedding. They’re a prime opportunity to catch up with friends and family over rounds of free fizz, love is the theme and getting dressed is all part of the fun. But what to actually wear? It’s an age-old question which has plagued men – one assumes – since marriage ceremonies first started taking place in ancient Mesopotamia. Blue toga or green toga? It’s like Shibtu’s choice.
Here, to help you decide what to wear this matrimonial season – and, just as importantly, how to wear it – are MR PORTER’s foolproof wedding dressing dos and don’ts.
01. Do stick to the dress code
For all the effort the bride(s) and groom(s) will go to to assure you how “chilled” they are about their forthcoming nuptials, the truth is that when it comes to the day, they will be stressed. They will want things to be perfect. And, as a consequence, they will expect their guests to fall into sartorial line.
What that means for you is that you must follow any dress code you are given to the letter. If the code reads “black tie”, be sure to wear a tux (or a subtle variation on one – a velvet jacket is fine, a full silk smoking jacket might be too much). Likewise, if it reads “smart”, or if no dress code is listed, you must wear a suit. Not chinos and a blazer, a suit.
The primary reason your hosts will be so hot on the dress code is because they’ll want their guests to look as fantastic as in the wedding pictures as they do. Indulge them. It’s the least you can do since they’re paying for your dinner.
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02. Don’t even think about sportswear
Mr Oscar Wilde once said, “You can never be overdressed or overeducated.” The former portion of the adage applies ten-fold to weddings.
Thus, unless you’re attending a The Royle Family-themed wedding or the dress code specifically dictates that you should wear sportswear, you must avoid anything made from synthetic materials with the same fervour that Dorian Gray avoided ageing. That means no sneakers (not even clean white tennis shoes), no polo shirts, no sweatshirts and absolutely no tracksuit bottoms – even the smart kind cut from tailored fabric won’t cut the wedding cake. If they’re elasticated anywhere, they’re not coming in.
If you’re really in the market for comfort, pick one of Paul Smith’s Suits To Travel In, which blend all the easy-wearing flexibility of a tracksuit with the taut tailoring of a Savile Row two-piece.
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03. Do make an effort (and do wear a tie)
Just because you’ve followed the dress code doesn’t mean that you should then scrimp on the details. If you’re wearing a suit, make it something that fits you properly and has seen the business end of a tailor’s chalk. If you’re wearing smart separates, in line with a more relaxed dress code, ensure that the colours of your jacket and trousers complement one another.
A wedding is one of the few opportunities you’ll have to dress in proper occasionwear, so grab it by the lapels and go for your life in clothes which you feel excited about wearing.
Speaking of which: ties might be back, but for formal occasions, they never really went away. At wedding season, this is not a sartorial bat-signal you should ignore. So powerful is the current pull of the tie that you should consider wearing one whatever the dress code dictates. Look to Turnbull & Asser or Charvet for smarter weddings and SAINT LAURENT, Dries Van Noten or Bottega Veneta for more fashionably casual events.
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04. Don’t pull focus
Look nice, sure. But today is not about you. So, it’s important not to rock up looking like Liberace.
In general terms, this means that as a wedding guest you should avoid wearing any shade relating to white (this includes bone, cream, buff and any other nom de guerre you can think of). It’s probably best to swerve faux fur, even at a winter wedding. And you should never wear a tux unless the dress code reads black tie.
By the same token, avoid anything too embellished, too decorative or too loud. Oh, and pulling a Mr Harry Styles by turning up in an oversized wedding gown probably isn’t going to win you any brownie points on the big day, either.
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05. Do pay attention to fit
Just as no one wants Liberace turning up to their wedding, the bride or groom won’t want to witness a flannel-clad sausage gurning at them as they walk down the aisle, either. If in doubt, go a size up, whatever you’re wearing. Suit trousers, in particular, are a repeat offender – they should glide over your thighs, not mummify them. Even when you sit down. Especially when you sit down.
For roomy tailoring with a contemporary feel that won’t leave you feeling like a hot dog, head to Barena or The Frankie Shop, who are great for something at the more affordable end of the scale – always preferable if you’re not all that close to the bride(s) and groom(s).
Pay attention to your jacket, too. For the most flattering effect, it should follow a longer line, nipping at the waist and finishing well below the seat. Unless you are wearing something deliberately cropped (eg, Thom Browne), you should avoid ultra-short suit jackets like the plague.
LA-based brand Fear of God is a great place to head for contemporary tailoring with a lengthier cut. For something more traditional, you could do worse than head to TOM FORD, UMIT BENAN B+ or The Row.
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06. Don’t forget the dress rehearsal
If you’re involved in the dress rehearsal, then you’re an important element of the main event. It’s key, therefore, to make an effort and show your hosts that you’ll live up to expectation on the big day. That doesn’t mean that you need to wear a suit, as such, but some clean tailored separates and a pair of nice shoes will signify the fact that you’re taking things as seriously as the bride(s) and groom(s) undoubtedly are.
Flat-front trousers with loafers and a cashmere crew neck will set the right tone: relaxed, but considered enough to show that you care. Mr P. and the Scandi brand mfpen would serve you well here.
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07. Do consider the location
If the wedding you’ve been invited to is taking place on the beach, plan accordingly – footwear, in particular, can be challenging to navigate. Sandals might feel too casual, but you’ll look much less out of place than you would shaking sand out of your leather brogues. Look for a suitably elevated pair, in leather – Manolo Blahnik, Berluti, or The Row offer styles that are compatible with a suit. Flip flops and slides, not matter the designer, are not acceptable.
A linen suit from masters of summer sprezzatura Canali or ZEGNA will look presentable and prevent you from overheating. Don’t feel obligated to wear a tie – but don’t feel obligated not to.
If your friends or family members are getting married in the autumn or winter, you need to pack appropriate footwear. A pair of Goodyear-welted Derby shoes from Bottega Veneta or Grenson will look great and last for ever.
Wear these alongside a suit in a tweed or heavy wool flannel from The Row or Kingsman and maybe even a fine gauge rollneck sweater from Loro Piana, providing the dress code dictates “lounge suit” or “smart casual”. You can afford to go moodier with your colours in the colder months than you might in the summer.
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08. Don’t even think about wearing your work suit
Newsflash: if you wear the same suit that you wear every day to the office to a wedding, no amount of free prosecco will make your fellow guests unsee the bagginess around your knees and wear around your crotch. Weddings provide a chance to experiment with fabrics you’d never usually sport in your day-to-day life – from crisp Dunhill hopsacks, to soft Universal Works seersuckers. So, why throw away an opportunity to play by wearing a grey old suit you bought with your first paycheque in 2006?
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09. Do accessorise (but do exercise restraint)
Sure, a pocket square is fine. And yes, a tie is a given (see above). But to bring some personality to your suit without sticking out like a sore thumb, you’d do well to think bigger on the accessories front. Lapel pins, tie bars and cufflinks bring flair to a sober suit, but we’d advise looking into the (tasteful) deployment of jewellery, too. A well-chosen signet ring from David Yurman or Tom Wood will imbue your outfit with a subtle sense of refinement (think Felix Catton in Saltburn, before his sticky demise).
A watch is absolutely welcome, but should be an appropriate style for a formal event. Park the heavy-duty, chain-link pieces and opt for something with a discrete leather strap. Frankly, it would be hard to improve upon a Cartier Tank.
There’s no question that a wedding is a great moment to experiment with colour and fabric. What weddings are not great for, however, are waistcoats furnished with Pink Panther prints or ties emblazoned with photos of Mr Timmy Mallet. Apply personality with caution.
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10. Don’t forget the shoes – and do polish them
When it comes to weddings, it’s important to treat your shoes with as much ceremony as the rest of your outfit. Not least because your older self, flicking through past wedding photos on his phone, will thank you for it when he looks down at your feet.
So, find pleasure in picking the perfect pair of patent TOM FORD slippers to team with your tux, and relish the process of buying a superlative pair of chestnut-brown Oxfords from Tricker’s or John Lobb to wear with your double-breasted suit and enforced carnation corsage (eek!).
There is absolutely no excuse for not polishing your shoes. Invest in a comprehensive shoe-shine kit (such as those from Lorenzi Milano or Mr P. + Saphir) and keep it by the front door and remind yourself to give the uppers a quick buff whenever you head out.
This is particularly important in advance of weddings, as you’ll be standing for at least a few hours at the reception, meaning your feet will be more on show than they usually are.
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11. Do plan your haircut carefully
A pre-wedding haircut is essential, but timing is everything. Get the chop too close to the big day and you run the risk of looking like a Ken doll – all freshly shaved edges and thick swathes of keratin meeting flesh – have it cut too much of a distance before and it’ll look shaggy and unkempt.
The optimum moment to get your hair cut, in my experience, is one week prior, as this will give the ’do sufficient time to bed in, without looking scruffy around the edges. Remember to wash it using high-quality shampoo from Aesop or Le Labo. Greasy hair does not an elegant wedding look make.
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12. Don’t do your fake tan at home
Although it might be tempting to give your face a lift with some self-applied fake tan the day before the wedding, chances are you’ll end up looking like Mr Hugh Grant in Wonka. If you do want a glow, a professional spray-tan is a far safer bet. Just be clear with your technician about the level of colour you’re aiming for. We’ve all seen that episode of Friends.
Word to the wise: get your tan at least one day before in order to achieve optimum bronzed-ness.
13. Do arrive prepared
If in doubt, pack a Burberry trench and an umbrella from Kingsman. The latter might feel like overkill, but the moment it starts spitting (an inevitability if you’re celebrating in the UK), you’ll be the most popular person at the wedding. And if it doesn’t rain? Well, then, you’ve got a natty walking stick to lean on as the speeches hit their third hour.
It’s not an exaggeration to say that buying a travel steamer will change your life. Not only will it give your clothes a much-needed breath of freshness when you unpack them pre-wedding, it’ll also remove any and all creases, which is an absolute essential as all clothes – even bad ones – look better when they’re properly steamed.
If you’re heading away for a wedding – to the English countryside, say, or to Santorini for nuptials in the Grecian sun – then be sure to pack options. You can plan your wedding outfit to within an inch of its life, but if the weather takes an unexpected turn, a lack of choices could leave you soggy.
If you’re wearing a light suit, pack a tonal mac. If you’re going with a heavy-duty wool two piece, take an alternative jacket in case the weather is warmer than anticipated. When it comes to shoes, adhere to the rule of three. One pair of loafers, one pair of lace-ups and one pair of boots will see you through any and all matrimonial eventualities – a Bridezilla attack notwithstanding.