One could say without much rebuttal that if it weren’t for WWII, our wardrobes – and the timeless staples within them – could look very different. Khaki, for instance, might never have become an accepted go-to neutral. And iconic outerwear garments such as the B-15 bomber jacket and M-43 field jacket might have remained exclusive to military personnel and not civilians.

There are many examples, but perhaps the most significant is the humble and endlessly versatile white T-shirt. Affectionately dubbed the “gob shirt” by the servicemen who wore it, this once nondescript, tight-fitting, sweat-absorbing undergarment was elevated to an enduring icon – a symbol of rugged masculinity and quiet heroism.

Eight decades on, the white T-shirt has long outgrown its utilitarian origins to become a cultural mainstay – immortalised by icons from Marlon Brando and James Dean in the 1950s to Jeremy Allen White and Idris Elba in the 2020s. Along the way, it has been embraced by every subculture imaginable, from greasers and punks to rebels, romantics, and today’s streetwear youth.

The issue with the T-shirt’s stratospheric rise to global ubiquity is that there are now too many variations, spanning different fits, designs, weights, necklines and material compositions. Not only that, but the role of the T-shirt has diversified. “Now that we take a more hybrid approach to dressing, a white T-shirt could be your choice for an evening out as much as a day at the beach bar,” says The Times style columnist Jeremy Langmead.

To find the perfect T-shirt, the starting point is undoubtedly the fit. If it doesn’t suit your body, it’s simply not the right one. Celebrity menswear stylist Gareth Scourfield suggests that “for slimmer body shapes, you should opt for a slim or classic fit, and it should sit neatly on or just below the waist”. TOM FORD, SAINT LAURENT and LOEWE, to name a few, all have fantastic options here for a luxe take on the sleekest of fits for the slickest of looks.

Now, I’ll be the first to admit that a slim fit isn’t for everyone. But a classic cut tends to suit most, and few do it better than the British brand Sunspel. “The expertise behind our Classic T-shirt has been passed down through generations [Sunspel was founded in 1860], shaping the development of every product in our collection,” says David Telfer, Sunspel’s design director, of its flagship model. Whether worn on its own or layered beneath a camp-collar or button-down shirt (as the writer Jack Kerouac did so well), it’s perfect, and my styling kit is never without a few fresh pairs.

“It’s designed to be the cornerstone of your wardrobe, the hardest working yet most effortless piece, providing confidence without drawing attention,” Telfer says.

Similarly, a regular fitting T-shirt provides a fail-safe effect, and the design team behind Mr P. have worked tirelessly to perfect the white tee in their permanent collection. “We blind test fabrics and wear trialled fits to ensure we’re happy,” says Liza Canneford, MR PORTER Director of Private Labels. “Our team visit our factories in Portugal regularly to discuss quality and fit with the pattern cutters and production managers.”

The team rightly prides itself on their responsible and ethical approach to manufacturing. “All of our T-shirt fabrics use either organic, recycled or regenerative fibres,” Canneford says, citing MR PORTER’s Consciously Crafted ethos.

Thanks to the rise of gym culture, which has beefed up the modern man, and the proliferation of a dressed-down society, relaxed, boxy fits have garnered a place in our wardrobes. “They can flatter the body,” Scourfield says of this look. “But don’t fall into the trap of trying to enhance broad shoulders and built biceps by sizing down; it should always sit below the waist, avoiding it riding up if untucked.” Appropriate styles can be found via proportion-pushing brands such as Balenciaga (expect a few graphics), Jil Sander, who offer a drop-shouldered version, and Massimo Alba, which comes with a handy pocket.

Few garments are as universally worn as the T-shirt, and its popularity means there’s something for every budget. At the entry-to-mid level, brands including Folk, Hartford and Carhartt WIP offer well-made, mid-weight and year-round staples with and without contemporary graphics. At the other end of the spectrum, labels such as The Row, Stòffa and Thom Sweeney elevate the humble tee into something more luxurious and smarter, with options in knitted, featherlight silk, pure cashmere and breezy linen blends, respectively. These are pieces designed to take centre stage, not play a supporting role – and quite right.

Another detail to consider is the type of neck. Crew necks are standard, but a “low-scooped or V-neckline can work, but it’s a particular look,” Langmead says. “You need to be sure you can pull it off, so to speak, as these tend to work better with a rugged look.” Austin Butler has demonstrated this ability, with unruly hair and workwear pieces to complement the T-shirt. That said, stick with a round neck when in doubt – trust us.

Quality is naturally crucial and, given their proximity to skin abrasion and usage, T-shirts can wear quickly, so looking after them is even more critical. “For best results, separate your whites from colours, turn the garment inside out and wash on a gentle cycle,” Telfer says. “When drying, lay the garment flat, reshape while damp to maintain its original form and press to keep its clean look.”

Words like staple, essential, timeless and iconic get thrown around far too often these days. But when it comes to the white T-shirt, few would argue their truth. Its ubiquity is the thread that quietly binds cultures, classes and generations across the globe – and long may that continue.