THE JOURNAL
Mr Brad Pitt and Sir Anthony Hopkins in Meet Joe Black (1998)
For the incorrigible introverts among us, Mr Larry David is both our comedic relief and voice. A few years ago, he penned something for Air Mail, unabashedly declaring, as he always does, those curmudgeonly sentiments that we dare not say. “I’m a creature of habit,” he acknowledged, “and can’t tolerate anything that throws me off my normal routine. That’s why I detest all holidays, but none as much as Christmas.”
Among the many things David loathes about the holidays, he lists the ever-ringing music, the faux bonhomie and those “movies with their ridiculous, treacly sentiments”. Most of all, he adds, he resents the nonstop social gatherings. Few of us are so obdurate and misanthropic that we’re not willing to perform a bit of geniality. Even if the wind up to the holidays can be a bit stressful, most of us enjoy the company of friends and family (at least some of them).
The challenge, really, is getting through the next two months. Between shopping for gifts, meeting end-of-year work deadlines and the inevitable winter travel delays, social commitments can feel more like a burden than a bliss. Plus, you have to figure out what to wear for these gatherings. What’s appropriate for the office party? How does one do “black tie”? And what exactly does “cocktail attire” mean? Rest assured – we’re here to guide you through the finer points of festive dressing with ease and clarity.
01. The office party
Dressing for the office has never been more confusing, as we’ve traded hard written dress codes for softly coded dress norms. Deciphering how to dress appropriately often means observing the cues in your workplace. Holiday parties, however, present a unique challenge. They’re annual and rare, making it harder to know where the line falls. A simple rule of thumb: aim for something presentable yet relaxed. It’s a party, after all.
For those in formal workplaces where suits are the norm, consider softening your look with a navy sport coat, which you can pair with a white spread-collar shirt, tan cotton trousers and leather shoes just a step below Oxfords in terms of formality, such as Derbies, chukkas or loafers. Before going to the party, tuck a tie into your pocket as a backup in case the atmosphere calls for a little extra polish. The navy sport coat keeps things a touch more relaxed than a full suit while still looking professional and party ready.
If your office leans casual – think T-shirts and jeans – use the holiday party as an opportunity to dial it up. Try Drake’s five-pocket cords, John Lobb’s leather boots and a textured sweater, such as a chunky Aran turtleneck from Inis Meáin or RRL. Combining textures, such as ribbed corduroy, soft suede and the distinctive patterns of fisherman knits, elevates the outfit while staying true to a casual spirit.
What to pack
02. Hosting a holiday party at home
If it’s your party, you have every right to dress as you please. But if you’re aiming for that perfect middle ground – polished, but making your guests feel at ease – consider a chunky shawl-collar cardigan. It can take the place of a sport coat while still feeling as comfortable as loungewear. The best ones feature hefty collars that drape like doughy rolls. Toss one over a T-shirt or collared shirt, then add jeans, chinos or five-pocket cords. This helps the atmosphere feel relaxed, so your guests feel at home, while also allowing you to present the best version of yourself.
Drake’s makes a classic English version finished with wrapped leather buttons, so you feel like you’re the kind of person with a leather club chair inside a home library. The slightly shorter length hits right around the belt line, preventing it from looking too baggy.
For something a little more rugged, check Mr Ralph Lauren’s various sub-labels, such as RRL, Purple Label and its Polo x Naiomi Glasses collaboration. The brands’ design inspirations often borrows from sporting and American Southwestern themes, which makes them a natural pairing with jeans and chambray work shirts.
For classic cardigans in luxe fabrications and finishes, look to Missoni’s signature colourful designs, while truly indulgent designs can be found at Brunello Cucinelli. Produced in an Umbrian hamlet called Solomeo, these cardigans are so soft, you’ll want to wear them with T-shirts to experience them over bare arms.
what to wear
03. The black-tie event
If you’re fortunate enough to receive a black-tie invitation this holiday season, rejoice. Most men don’t get many opportunities to wear a black-tie rig nowadays, even though it’s the most elegant and flattering thing a man can wear. In fact, no one will blink an eye if you wear a dinner suit on New Year’s Eve at an upscale restaurant or even a hotel bar should you so wish.
Figuring out black tie can feel like learning a forgotten language, but you can simplify the process by following some easy steps. First, you obviously need a black-tie rig (or tuxedo, in the American parlance). A peak lapel will feel a little more formal, whereas a shawl collar conveys the relaxed spirit of smoking jackets.
Next, get a traditional tuxedo shirt with a fly front or pleated bib, as well as the studs and cufflinks that you may need to wear with it. Most men will benefit from wearing a cummerbund, as this will cover up the edge of the bib and any shirt fabric that might otherwise peek out from beneath the coat’s buttoning point. Finally, get the right pair of shoes. Black patent leather formal pumps and Oxfords are the most traditional choices, although Belgian loafers and velvet Prince Albert slippers can look charmingly louche if you’re hosting something at home.
For something less traditional, play around with fabrics. Something like Kingsman’s dinner jackets in brown velvet or cream barathea can be worn with traditional tuxedo trousers while still conveying the kind of sophistication that you want to communicate. Ralph Lauren Purple Label even has black velvet dinner jackets finished with braided silk frog fasteners if you want something truly special. Whatever you choose, finish the outfit with a black bow tie (ideally made from the same material as your jacket’s facings).
What to wear
04. Cocktail attire
Historically, the term “cocktail attire” was quite literal, referring to what people wore to get drinks. Cocktail hour was a social ritual primarily involving two types of attendees. One group consisted of professionals unwinding after work, often wearing dark worsted business suits, white dress shirts and conservative silk neckties. The other group was on their way to evening events, such as the opera, and they were dressed in black tie. Consequently, cocktail attire meant the sort of things people naturally wore to work or evening shows, back when tailored clothing was part of people’s regular routines.
In contemporary times, the definition of cocktail attire is still somewhat synonymous with “dressing up”. If you see it on an invitation, try to wear a tailored jacket. Given that cocktail attire is primarily reserved for evening events, opt for colours and materials that exude elegance. That means reaching for that aforementioned navy sport coat instead of a brown tweed, or a navy wool-mohair suit instead of tan cotton. Choose slightly more formal shoes, such as black leather Oxfords that gleam at night, instead of brown boots or white sneakers.
You’ll never go wrong wearing a dark worsted suit to a cocktail party. To make things look a little more celebratory and less corporate, consider teaming it with a thin cashmere turtleneck. A dark suit without a tie can look like the night sky without stars, but a thin turtleneck allows you to sidestep this issue while still creating the necessary visual interest to lead the viewer’s eye up to your face.
For something a little more glamorous, try TOM FORD’s navy wool-mohair Shelton suit. Mohair is a stiff fibre with a natural lustre. When used for tailoring, the garments glimmer, glow and create pockets of light and shadows as you move. They look particularly good at night when under artificial light, such as you’d find in dimly lit restaurants and bars. When teamed with an open-collared, white dress shirt and black suede loafers, you’ll look like a charming social butterfly, even if you secretly harbour a bit of David’s introversion.
What to wear
The people featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse MR PORTER or the products shown