Watch Of The Week: Oris X Momotaro Divers Sixty-Five

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Watch Of The Week: Oris X Momotaro Divers Sixty-Five

Words by Chris Hall

17 August 2020

What is it?

The latest chapter in Oris’ homespun success story, the Divers Sixty-Five: a collaboration with Japanese denim specialist Momotaro. Quite possibly the coolest version yet.

Why does it matter?

You wait ages for convincing, authentic collaborations between watches and menswear, and then two come along at once. Hot on the heels of IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN’s link-up with Orlebar Brown, the next watch to grace my wrist was Oris’ steel and bronze Divers Sixty-Five Momotaro edition.

I remember when Oris launched the Divers Sixty-Five back in 2015. Journalists were invited to a low-key press showing in London’s St James and presented with the original model, complete with quirky reversed-out stencil outlines for the numerals at three, six, nine and 12, and an authentically old-school “tropic” rubber strap.

Oris did not create the wave of enthusiasm for vintage-styled, back-to-basics dive watches with added splashes of colour – Tudor had released the Black Bay two years earlier – but it rode that wave with gusto. At the outset, I thought that first Divers Sixty-Five was diverting (not an adjective that had always sprung to mind where Oris was concerned), but I have to admit, I have been continually impressed at how neatly the brand has parlayed that first design (in truth, a bit too offbeat to be a mainstream winner) into a succession of hits that appeal to jaded watch-world cynics and customers alike.

There are now more than 50 Divers Sixty-Five variations, if you count changes in size, dial colour, metals and straps. Oris has partnered with the Movember Foundation – a cause close to our hearts here at MR PORTER – as well as releasing a seriously handsome chronograph version in bronze.

When you see something repeatedly done well – like watching Mr Roger Federer, or Mr Lewis Hamilton – it can become oddly routine; your expectations have been raised and the brilliant made ordinary, but it is worth praising Oris for hitting the mark with this watch over and over again.

Now we have this crossover with Momotaro; another piece that could not be more on-trend if it tried. It’s two-tone bronze and steel, but very subtly executed – only the bezel is bronze – and to be honest, your attention is going to be elsewhere. Notably, the dial and the strap. Vibrant dial colours have become something of a signature for the Divers Sixty-Five; here we’re looking at a pale mint green that, were it to crop up on a simple steel watch, I’d be unsure of, but in juxtaposition with the case, dial details (gilt-edged indexes and interestingly, no date window) and strap, it’s a real winner.

So: that strap. A slice of stiff Japanese selvedge with Momotaro’s customary “battle stripe” motif running across it. I love it – it has to be one of the most comfortable watches I’ve worn all year, and it’s so distinctive. Fabric straps always wear over time, but if you take care of it, I can see this lasting a lot longer than your average Nato. It’s leather-backed and fastens with a simple pin buckle.

As a nice touch, the watch also comes with a Momotaro denim travel pouch, with a separate denim wallet for the warranty card, as well as a custom box and Momotaro tote bag. I don’t often talk about packaging, but Oris has put real thought into the unboxing experience, and it’s the little notes of added value that can really win you over. Five years ago, I would not have expected it of Oris; today, the attention to detail is right up there.

The key details

Oris x Momotaro Divers Sixty-Five ref. 01 733 7707 4337

Materials: Stainless steel and bronze with denim strap

Diameter: 40mm

Height: 13mm

Water-resistance: 100m

Power reserve: 38 hours

Price: £1,700

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