THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Mr Nick Hardcastle
Pores. A blight on anyone that’s ever taken a close-up selfie, and, frustratingly, one that is near impossible to cure. As we live in the era of HD, where everything can be zoomed in on and scrutinised, we are finding ourselves becoming more and more obsessed with the tiny “flaws” on our faces, seeking out products, procedures and even plastic surgeons to try and fix them.
Not that you can fix pores – you will always have them. The small openings in our faces (and all over the body) that release sweat and sebum, pores are necessary to detoxify our skin. While the size of them are primarily a genetic trait (thanks, Mum and Dad), large pores tend to pester the majority of men. Our skin is up to 25 per cent thicker than women’s, so it naturally produces more oil to maintain moisture levels. Annoyingly, this excess oil enlarges our pores, filling them up with sebum so they can pop out and say hello.
Thankfully, science has somewhat of a solution, and there has been a recent barrage of products entering the market claiming to cleanse, conceal and close our overexcited pores. Dr Joney De Souza, one of London’s most eminent aesthetic doctors, gave MR PORTER some advice on how to handle your face so it looks fresh, filtered and as flawless as possible.
Double cleanse
“The main way to optimise the appearance of your pores is to exfoliate. It’s that simple,” says Dr De Souza. “Consider an exfoliating cleanser containing acids. They will slough off dead skin cells clogging the pores and help to refine texture.” Before that, though, start with an oil cleanser. The nourishing oils will actually strip your skin of any excess sebum that has built up – paradoxically, it’s oil that most effectively gets rid of oil. Follow that with Dr De Souza’s recommendation, a cleanser containing alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids. Double cleansing has been around for a while and is one of the reasons our friends in Korea have almost pore-free skin, so it’s definitely worth a punt.
Use a salicylic serum
You’re not done exfoliating yet though; in fact, you need to get out the big guns now. “Specifically look for products that contain salicylic acid,” counsels Dr De Souza, “which has the ability to break down any remaining sebum.” In this regard, you can’t go wrong with Sisley – Paris’ Intensive Serum With Tropical Resins, which has developed a cult following for being as strong as it is soothing. The blend of botanical extracts with salicylic acid help to purify and perfect the complexion at a really refined level, all while mattifying shine and improving tone. I count myself as a major fan and have gone through more than a few bottles.
Take (or apply) your vitamins
For those who want to go hard with their routine, you can incorporate three other influential ingredients to simultaneously shrink pores while addressing your other skincare irks.
Vitamin B5
“Niacinamide (or vitamin B5) is a fantastic product because it is deeply hydrating and does not stimulate the sebum glands,” says Dr De Souza. “It is a real multitasker in the skincare world, able to regulate oil production, calm redness and strengthen the lipid barrier.”
**Best for: **dehydrated, irritated skin
Vitamin C
“Vitamin C, a total classic, is great at preventing the oxidation process that not only clogs pores but also ages the skin,” continues the doctor, “in addition to reducing pigmentation that usually appears after break outs.”
Best for: acne-prone or pigmented skin
Vitamin A
For those who want some anti-ageing help while shrinking your pores, opt for a retinol-based product. “Vitamin A (or retinol) is a great skin metaboliser and anti-ageing ingredient, explains Dr De Souza. “As it increases skin cell turnover, it helps to prevent dead skin cells accumulating on top of the skin.”
Best for: ageing skin
Failing all that...
If pores are really bothering you, however, a visit to a clinic might be worth a shot. “Both mechanical (microdermabrasion) or chemical (peels) are great to keep those blackheads away and to manage oil production,” suggest Dr De Souza. “Botox is a great way to treat oiliness and to reduce pore size, as studies have shown that it reduces the oil production function of the sebum glands. It is a temporary solution, but it can give great results.” Try the Pore Patrol treatment at Dr De Souza’s opulent Marylebone clinic, which uses a light laser to zap away any gunk and then tightens enlarged openings in your complexion by micro-needling in 0.5mm of Botox. You leave with no recovery needed and a fairly flawless face that’s ready for your next selfie.