Considering the breadth of material out there about how women should dress for their body shape (from the useful to the painfully twee), there’s scant discussion in the men’s clothing sphere about how to dress for different proportions. A one-size-fits-all mentality seems to persist, which is curious because the very heart of menswear – tailoring – is about fit, size and the little nips, tucks and tricks that suiting can achieve to flatter and complement a man’s frame. Which is why we welcome @conorb42’s query.

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Short man – long coat. I really want to wear one, but how?

From @conorb42, via Instagram

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Your query is a specific one, related to coats now that we’re in the midst of bleak midwinter, and a pertinent one. A coat is the first thing people see. It defines your silhouette and sets an agenda, as it were. Let’s state the obvious first. A long coat is going to drag a short frame down and make you look as if you’re even closer to the ground than you are. A coat that swishes down to the feet is magisterial on a tall frame, dramatic even. But on a shorter frame, it looks ever so slightly wizard-like or carries a hint of the Shire. That said, in colder climes, you can’t rely on short peacoats and bomber jackets that don’t provide the cover you need. So, it’s time to get technical about the little details that draw the eye and make the best of your stature.

First, keep things tailored. Your small height might lead you to think you should encourage largesse elsewhere in the form of big shapes and louche silhouettes – there’s been a trend for oversized coats and sloping shoulders for a few years now – but this will serve only to swamp you. Look instead to coats that are properly structured. Scaffolding and architecture are your friends. A trench coat, such as this one from Prada, defines your waist with its belt, which breaks up the torso, which makes you less of a solid block shape. It also has strong shoulders and cuffs at the sleeves, which look more pulled together and regimented.

The shoulders are important on a coat for smaller frames. The aforementioned sloping (called a raglan) variety does a disservice to shorter men because it drags everything south. Instead, serious shoulders – you could even opt for a peak shoulder, which has a sprezzatura flair to it – will draw the eye upwards and redress the balance. May we suggest this smart double-breasted coat from Richard James?

Next, think about your lapels. The more elongated, the better, as on this Brunello Cucinelli coat. They will create a natural V line that will draw the eye upwards as opposed to downwards and that shape will broaden your shoulders up top too. The same goes for peak, as opposed to notch, lapels, which point upwards and add more presence. They’re larger than other varieties and create more action up top, which works in your favour. See Kingsman’s double-breasted overcoat.

In terms of length, if you’re committed to a coat that falls below the knee (understandable in sub-zero climes), think about your trousers and shoes. Solid, chunky shoes (see the trend for massively oversized sneakers) will again pull focus towards your feet and won’t help, as will baggier trousers. Classic shoes and straight-legged trousers are your friends here. Try these chinos from J.Crew.

While winter is the time to pile on the layers and swaddle yourself, for the short of stature, adding texture and bulk isn’t helpful. It negates that tailored silhouette. Keep padding to a minimum, but if you’re particularly fixated on adding a layer, opt for a gilet instead of the full downy affair. You can even wear it over your coat, for a styling stance straight from the show-goers of Florence menswear fair Pitti Uomo. You’ll stand head and shoulders above the rest, style wise.