Dress Code: How To Style Every Pair Of Sneakers You Own

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Dress Code: How To Style Every Pair Of Sneakers You Own

Words by Ms Molly Isabella Smith | Photography by Mr Pelle Crépin | Styling by Ms Sophie Watson

15 March 2021

That old maxim about shoes being the first thing a fellow human notices about you may belong to a bygone age, but there’s some truth in it. It’s not just a question of style, but of status. Here, perhaps more than anywhere, you can see the difference that proper craftsmanship makes. The time is now ripe for us to modernise the adage and replace the word “shoes” with “sneakers”.

Trainers are far more ubiquitous than their hard-soled counterparts. And just as in the past a man’s scuffed or soiled Oxfords may have elicited a few disapproving tuts, likewise your choice of sneakers influences how others perceive you.

It doesn’t mean you have to be Mr Classic Kicks every day of the week. A man’s sneaker wardrobe should be as varied as the rest of his closet. What you wear to work or in a professional setting will undoubtedly be different from what you wear on a long weekend walk or while meeting friends at the pub (any day now).

Which brings us to our subject for today: how to build an outfit around whatever pair of sneakers you happen to be wearing that day. We haven’t set out to lay down any hard-and-fast rules here, but if you take one thing away from this sartorial seminar, think “feet first”. Follow our lead and you won’t put a foot wrong.

01.

The luxe high-tops

Sneakers have a long history as status symbols. Copping the latest Yeezys, for example, will grant you a certain kudos, but there is another category of kick that affords its wearer a degree of sartorial standing: the luxury sneaker. Discreet, understated and, more often than not, made of suede, the big players in this field are top-notch labels such as Brunello Cucinelli, John Lobb and, in the case of these taupe suede high-tops, TOM FORD.

As for how to wear them, it’s worth having the phrase “keeping up with the Joneses” front of mind. This is the logic you need to apply when approaching so-called luxe sneakers. Every other piece of your outfit should be on a par in terms of quality, fabric and, as demonstrated so deftly here, colour. Nothing screams luxury like a stealthy palette of muted neutrals – the tan jacket/overshirt from Italian brand Valstar (also, it should be noted, in suede, though this time in a richer tone) and just a peek of fine-gauge merino sweater in a subtle shade of stone from our friends at tailoring firm Saman Amel. Even the Loro Piana baseball cap comes in a sophisticated shade of sage green.

02.

The cops with cachet

Ever wondered what a sneaker inspired by life on Mars would look like? No, we haven’t either. So it’s an excellent thing that the good people at Nike have had their creative caps on. The Space Hippie 04 sneaker isn’t just revolutionary in terms of inventiveness. It’s made from, in the brand’s words, “trash transformed”. Its stretch-knit (comfortable enough for all-day wear) uppers are crafted from about 75 per cent recycled materials, including plastic bottles, old T-shirts and leftover yarn.

A standout sneaker warrants an outfit to match, but don’t overdo it. Here, we’ve opted for some classic grey Craig Green sweatpants (consider them a presentable upgrade to the ones that have been permanently welded to your sofa for the past year). We’ve paired them with this Undercover shirt in a tonally consistent, but not too busy, print to avoid clashing colours. Ditto the Stüssy cardigan.

03.

The box-fresh kicks

Is it merely a happy coincidence that Common Projects made its debut just as it was becoming admissible to wear sneakers with suiting? Of course not. The minimalist brand didn’t just piggy-back on that particular trend; it helped to create it. No wonder the Achilles model remains an all-time bestseller at MR PORTER and the penchant for pairing tailoring with casual footwear remains strong.

Here, we’ve teamed the brand’s Retro Low model, a tennis-type kick with contrasting heel tabs, with a spring-weight cotton and linen-blend suit from Officine Générale to mirror the shoe’s clean lines and a simple Breton-style striped sweater from NN07. A utility-style holdall from Bleu de Chauffe stands in for a briefcase. Versatility is what we’re aiming for here. Wear this when your office reopens, to a casual dinner or even if you’re just grabbing a swift after-work pint.

04.

The trail runners

Going on an adventure? Or just a walk? Even if you can’t venture much farther than your local woodland or park, you never know when you’ll find yourself faced with a deeper-than-average puddle or low-hanging branch. Preparation is key. As is looking the part. The trail runner trend was just getting going when the pandemic began, with labels such as Balenciaga and Gucci offering on-brand takes on the sportswear-specific shoe. Above, we’ve opted for a more robust pair from technical specialist Salomon. The heavy-duty XT-4 model was developed to offer superior sturdiness on hikes and long-distance runs.

The rest of the outfit features authentically rugged items: a military-green waterproof jacket from Arc’teryx, a cosy Patagonia fleece and a tough canvas cross-body bag. Special mention must go to the trousers from West Coast outdoor brand Gramicci. The built-in belt, drawstring waist and tough corduroy exterior mean they’re perfectly suited for intrepid pursuits, but they’re also cut in a smartly tailored and pleated shape so they’ll serve you just as well down the pub.

05.

The retro classics

There’s nothing new about the revival of retro sneakers. Brands such as adidas Originals and its Spezial series have been at it for a while now. The suede Handball pair above is, in fact, a 2012 reissue of a 1970s style that came to prominence once it was spotted on the football terraces of the decades that followed.

It’s hard to decipher whether the soccer casual mode of dressing (football supporters adopting designer brands rather than team shirts or colours), made popular in the 1980s and 1990s, is having another moment or whether it never went away. It has evolved, though, and become better with age. It’s moved beyond tracksuits and parkas to include refined utilitarian pieces. The quintessentials are still there, including decade-specific hallmarks (we’re referring to the Dries Van Noten bucket hat we’ve added up top), but inspiration has been drawn from farther afield. Japanese brands with a knack for classic workwear staples, such as this visvim, have entered the fray with garments such as this denim jacket. Take note, too, of these rugged yet refined organic cotton chinos from Copenhagen label and new MR PORTER addition Wood Wood.