It is well known that melanin gives dark skin its colour. “All skin, regardless of colour, has the same number of melanocytes and melanosomes, which produce and store melanin,” says Ms Dija Ayodele, an aesthetician and founder of Black Skin Directory. “In darker skin, the melanosomes are larger and are evenly distributed throughout the skin, giving it a darker appearance. In lighter skin, the melanosomes are smaller and clustered together.”

Melanin plays another key role in protecting the skin from the sun. As cosmetic dermatologist Dr Amiee Vyas explains, when UV rays hit the skin, they activate the tyrosinase enzyme, which produces melanin as a protective mechanism. With melanin more readily available in darker skin tones, this affords it an in-built sun protection equivalent to about SPF13, compared with very fair skin, which typically hovers around SPF3 (and is the reason why darker skin tones tan within minutes, while lighter skin is more prone to burning). But that in-built protection is just not enough. “No tan is a healthy tan, no matter what colour you are,” says Vyas. “That’s showing that sun damage is already happening.”

Skincare experts have long warned about the havoc UV rays can wreak on your skin and promoted SPF as the ultimate anti-ager. And despite the (flawed) adage that black don’t crack, the long-term benefits of SPF apply to darker skin tones, too. Those with melanin-rich skin are admittedly not as prone to burning, freckling or wrinkling as their paler counterparts, but sun damage typically manifests as oiliness, changes in texture and hyperpigmentation.

“The number one skin concern in darker skin types is hyperpigmentation and it’s the thing that then goes on to affect their skin confidence on a deeper level,” says Vyas. “Sunscreen can prevent existing dark spots or marks that are on the face from getting even darker, because the darker they get, the deeper they become within the skin and the more difficult and expensive they are to treat.”

Mr Lateef Saka, a skincare influencer, is keen to explain to his followers that regular use of SPF will guarantee better skin in the long run. “Even apart from the hyperpigmentation [issue], UVA rays create a lot of free radicals that essentially compromise the structure and integrity of the skin itself, which ultimately means that you’re going to look older faster,” he says.

Slapping on the sunscreen isn’t just a question of vanity, but of overall health. Excessive UV exposure brings with it the very real risk of skin cancer and while those with darker skin tones might have greater natural protection against the disease, a lack of awareness of the importance of SPF can multiply the risk. “Because of the misconception that we don’t need sunscreen, a little bit of pigmentation tends to be normalised and things such as skin cancers end up being missed,” says Vyas. “By the time they’re found, they’re really severe cases – things such as melanoma.”

Sunscreens are notorious for leaving dark skin with a ghostly appearance, which can make the prospect of wearing them off-putting. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which, while brilliant at deflecting the sun’s rays and thus offering first-rate levels of protection, are essentially white powders that can end up looking chalky – even blueish – on dark skins.

Most modern-day SPFs boast much more refined, sophisticated (dark-skin-friendly) formulas. High-quality mineral sunscreens, in which the active ingredient is titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, will also typically contain nanoparticles, which are less likely to show up on the skin. There is also a wealth of chemical SPFs available – look for avobenzone, octinoxate and oxybenzone on the label. Rather than sitting on top of the skin, like a mineral sunscreen, these work by neutralising the sun’s rays and getting rid of them as heat and are as good as invisible on all skin tones, says Vyas.

Our experts agree that everyone, regardless of their skin tone, should wear a minimum of SPF30. “And it must be broad spectrum so it’s giving you that UVA and UVB protection,” says Vyas. Whether you opt for a chemical or a mineral formula is a matter of personal preference. People with especially sensitive skin might find mineral SPFs less irritating, says Ayodele, while Vyas explains that chemical SPFs can take 10 to 20 minutes to kick in. “If you’re getting treatments [or using products] that are exfoliating your skin and exposing the upper layers, then you want to be putting on something that is effective instantly,” she says.

As for those handy two-in-one SPF moisturisers? Some protection is better than no protection and they can be great for streamlining your morning routine, but you will have to lather on a truckload to get adequate sun production. If you want maximum coverage and protection or are struggling with hyperpigmentation, then a dedicated sunscreen is your bet, says Ayodele.

SPF should be the final step in your skincare routine, after moisturiser, but you might find that your product of choice allows you to skip a daytime face cream. “I think as we’ve come into this age where SPFs are becoming more innovative and brands want to make sure they’re giving consumers a more finished product, a lot of SPFs that I use do double up as a moisturiser anyway,” says Saka. “My advice is to find a sunscreen that sits well with your skin type and hydrates your skin, so it’s not an additional step.”

You may need to shop around until you find your ideal match. “Finding a sunscreen that works for you means kissing a lot of frogs, unfortunately,” says Ayodele. “Figure out what you do and don’t like in a sunscreen, for example texture, finish and formulation. And don’t necessarily write off all physical or all chemical sunscreens. It may be you just haven’t found the right one for you.”

Ultimately, says Vyas, “the best sunscreen is the one that you wear every single day”.

Along with Aperol spritzes, freshly cut grass and a sizzling barbecue, the scent of sunscreen is synonymous with summer. But it shouldn’t be the preserve of the warmer months and holidays. It should be worn year-round. “UVA rays can still go through cloud cover,” says Vyas. They’re also powerful enough to pass through windows, so don’t neglect to wear SPF indoors, too.

How much sunscreen should you apply? Experts suggest using about two teaspoons of sunscreen for the face and neck. If in doubt, use the handy two fingers rule. Apply a generous amount of sunscreen from the tip to the base of your index and middle fingers. Even if you are among the virtuous folk who already slather on SPF religiously every morning, don’t pat yourself on the back just yet. It should be reapplied throughout the day.

“If you’re in the office and you’re not in direct sunlight, I don’t over-impose that rule,” says Vyas. “It’s when you are in the height of summer and you’re sun exposed all day that it’s really important to be reapplying every two hours, especially if you are on holiday and you’re going in and out of the water.” A handful of brands now offer SPF powders, compacts and sprays, which make quick and frequent reapplication a doddle.

Always wash off sunscreen thoroughly at the end of the day and there’s no need to use an SPF moisturiser at night. “During the daytime, it’s all about preventing the damage from occurring,” says Vyas. “Overnight, your skin is regenerating and restoring, so your bedtime product should be focused on that.”