THE JOURNAL
Illustration by Mr Michal Bednarski
Every country the world over has a tradition that fuses nature, science and indigenous healing in a way that encapsulates its culture. Whether you’re submerged in the silica-rich geothermal springs of Iceland or beaten into submission in a Russian banya, an authentic and well-executed spa experience can provide a visceral – and sometimes thoroughly enjoyable – insight into a country’s DNA.
For example, the hammams of Morocco aren’t just about getting about slathered in mud; they’re a space for pre-prayer ablutions and socialising. Equally, the Mexican temazcal (from which the modern sauna came into being) is a sweat lodge used for ceremonial healing and spiritual connection.
Of course, not all spas offer mental and metaphysical rejuvenation. Hotel spas in particular have a tendency to sell massages by numbers, making them about as inspiring as the on-site business centre. That’s why we’ve scoured the globe to find the most unique and transformative wellness destinations in operation, and unpacked the experiences they have on offer.
01.
Detox in the Alps
What to know
Alpine spas have a distinctly medical bent. So much so that Austrian establishments like Lanserhof and Mayrlife could be mistaken for galactic hospitals. Cutting-edge diagnostics sit alongside newer practices such as psychoneuroimmunology (the interplay of psychological stress and disease) and orthomolecular medicine (better known as nutritional supplementation), but it is the detox treatments that bring everyone to this majestic part of Europe.
Where to go
At Mayrlife (formerly VivaMayr), the founding principle is that a fully detoxed body is more adept at self-regeneration. Detoxing, of course, is politically correct wellness speak for controlled fasting. That doesn’t mean no food but it does mean you’ll endure bouts of hangriness before the benefits of a full gut rest kick in. These include better skin, more energy and, crucially, a bolstered immune system (in fact, both Mayrlife and Lanserhof both offer long-Covid programmes for those who have not found relief through mainstream medicine). Fortunately, the landscape is so achingly beautiful – and the celeb spotting so relentless – that your deprivation demons will be thoroughly pacified.
02.
Breathe better in the Cotswolds
What to know
At only an hour from the capital by train, the chocolate box villages of the Cotswolds have become a refuge for burnt-out Londoners in recent years. While this hasn’t delighted locals, it has created demand for some exceptional spas and boutique hotels – and there are some real gems to be found among the soft rolling hills.
Where to go
Bamford, Calcot Manor and Barnsley House are all well established, but it is Thyme, a verdant and exquisitely manicured 150-acre manor, that elicits the most joyous of exhales.
Breathwork and botany take centre stage at the hotel’s Meadow Spa, a serene enclosure within the mini village that never feels crowded or overdone. Ask for the signature ritual in the Botanical Bothy, a private space sculpted from natural resin that’s dedicated to what Thyme calls “conscious diaphragmatic breath” (controlled belly breathing).
Therapists guide you into a meditative breathing pattern using aromatherapeutic blends from Thyme’s sister brand Bertioli before incorporating pressure point techniques, lymphatic brushing and a very light scalp massage. It’s not a treatment so much as a sensory journey but one that manages to release stress while tangibly boosting sleep, digestion and mood. Like all things at Thyme, the prescription is disarmingly simple but faultlessly executed. To help you integrate the benefits, the ritual ends with an outdoor bath on the secluded veranda.
03.
Try panchakarma in the Himalayas
What to know
Panchakarma, literally translated as “five actions”, is the cornerstone of Ayurveda, the system of medicine that originated in the Indian subcontinent over 3,000 years ago. It is not for the faint of heart (or, indeed, gut). Common practices include drinking ghee and irrigating almost every orifice at all-too-regular intervals. It would be a gross oversimplification to think of panchakarma as a cleanse; the aim is to rebalance body, mind and consciousness through diet, herbs and specific treatments.
Where to go
Six Senses Vana or Ananda, a former palace in the Himalayan foothills, will provide sufficient cushioning for the experience. Panchakarma can be brutal at times – especially when approaching the finish line – so it makes sense to undergo the strict 21-day protocol in an environment that’s both luxurious and medically sound.
At Ananda, an Ayurvedic doctor will devise a bespoke programme that includes deeply nourishing therapies such as Abhyanga (a massage performed with sesame oil), and restorative yoga sessions that are a far cry from the calisthenics-inspired aberrations that are so popular in the US and Europe. The personalised diet and herbal supplements aren’t exactly appealing on paper, but the resident chef manages to magic the critical ingredients into a gourmet experience.
04.
Take to the waters in Languedoc
What to know
There is something altogether easier about the French attitude to bien être. It is about good food and wine just as much as it is about cult treatments and products (head to The French Pharmacy in London for those). There is also long history of using natural springs for regeneration and relaxation, as well as the treatment of serious medical conditions.
Where to go
Southern France is dotted with boutique gems, from L’Occitane’s recently renovated Le Couvent des Minimes in Provence to Maison Ila in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. The latter is an 18th century house turned boutique retreat founded by Ms Denise Leicester, the visionary healer behind natural skincare brand Ila. For anyone who has experienced Ila’s bodywork therapies – arguably the best in the spa world – this is a chance to fully immerse yourself the brand’s gentle and unpretentious philosophy.
A typical day includes meditation, sound healing, yoga and soft, slow treatments designed to rebalance mind and body. Guests are encouraged to walk into the hills and take in undisturbed views of the Pyrenees or plunge into the River Hers (there is a hot tub and a pool on site if the mountain water is too much). With just six rooms, Maison Ila is, for all intents and purposes, a semi-private retreat where guests can indulge in three, five or seven-day programmes. Make the most out of your visit and book the entire house for you and a group.
05.
Get a next-generation facial in Seoul
What to know
From glass skin to eleven-step regimes, South Korea is firmly established as the epicentre of advanced skincare. Its influence might be international, but nothing quite compares to the experience in situ. “Customer service is huge in Korea. The level of care you get is unparalleled,” says aesthetic doctor and South Korean skin expert Dr Christine Hall, whose regular visits to Seoul have informed her approach to beauty. “You can’t fill up with petrol without someone greeting you at the pump and then gifting you a box of tissues as you leave. Facials are no different. You get a lot more bang for your buck,” she adds.
Where to go
The central fixture of the Seoul spa scene is Shangpree, where resident aestheticians train for three arduous years before they’re allowed on the spa floor. The brand’s bespoke facials use a combination of intense facial kneading (to boost circulation), plant stem cells and rubberised masks. Sometimes a mechanical air compression massager is wrapped around your legs while they work on your face.
If you want to go all out, head to the Chaum Life Centre, where anti-ageing takes on a whole new meaning. In-house diagnostics ranging from gene analysis and intestinal scans all the way to arteriosclerosis prediction sit, somewhat bizarrely, alongside beauty treatments. You can, of course, forego the medical probing and fast forward to the Evercell facial, which involves facial muscle stretching (FMS), lymphatic drainage and microneedling.
06.
Undergo a spiritual transformation in Bali
What to know
Bali’s reputation for spiritual transformation – or, at the very least, your first yoga teacher training – is verging on cliché. Hemp-clad expats will insist, kombucha in hand, that the island is an energy vortex, and that Balinese sacred sites and healing rituals have unfathomable power. While all of this is true, there is, paradoxically, a great deal of sun-warmed hedonism in certain corners of the Hindu paradise. More reason to choose your retreat carefully.
Where to go
Ms Christina Ong’s Como Shambhala set the blueprint for wellness retreats when it opened in Ubud’s lush rainforest in 2005. And while countless competitors have cropped up in recent years, the resort’s reputation for industry-leading practitioners remains unchallenged. Asian-based therapies, yoga, gratitude ceremonies and breathwork are all heightened by the heartfelt sincerity with which everything is performed.
If you prefer to be by the water, there’s Amankila, where freestanding suites perch atop stilts and provide unperturbed views of the Lombok Straits. It is difficult to leave the spa at any Aman resort but rest assured that the resort’s Purifying Spiritual Journey is worth the effort. It includes an authentic water cleansing ritual (Melukat) at Jagasatru Waterfall and a ceremonial blessing at the 11th-century Silayukti Temple. All, we hasten to add, without having to battle through throngs of backpackers.